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want to build my engine, but still a newb, help please

  • Thread starter Thread starter DerekStangGT
  • Start date Start date Jun 6, 2004
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DerekStangGT

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mods are in sig. i need more power out of my car. i want to save up for big mods like cams or P&P heads, intake, etc. my goal is to buid a strong engine before i s/c, so im thinking i should focus on the engine rather than on bolt-ons that will add only 5 rwhp at a time. here is the question: can i SAFELY add cams to my stock engine w/o having to build anything else or worry that somthing will break? i dont want anything too extreme, but ive heard of some adding up to 20 rwhp with a mild set of cams. what are your thoughts? also, which cams would you recomend? all help is appreciated
 
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DerekStangGT

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bump
 

4.6_02_Black_GT

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#3
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Derek the question when and what mods is always a hard one.

I'm struggling to decide for sure to do cams now or save the money for a Kenne Bell.. So there are always hard choices to make, and those choices are up to you and your plan for your car.

Just try to have a plan so you dont have to RE-do anything and spend extra cash. Like dont buy an upper intake plenum if you are planning a blower(Like a KB which will come with a new intake).

As for a safe install, a good mild cam wont "hurt" anything it can add 20-30 hp. But you do have to do it right, determine if you need new valve springs, if the engine is high mileage you might even have to replace the lifters or even the seals(in the interest of your word "safely") In a newer car you should be able to get by with the cam and springs and a good tune.

hope this helps.
 

DBMSTNG

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DerekStangGT said:
mods are in sig. i need more power out of my car. i want to save up for big mods like cams or P&P heads, intake, etc. my goal is to buid a strong engine before i s/c, so im thinking i should focus on the engine rather than on bolt-ons that will add only 5 rwhp at a time. here is the question: can i SAFELY add cams to my stock engine w/o having to build anything else or worry that somthing will break? i dont want anything too extreme, but ive heard of some adding up to 20 rwhp with a mild set of cams. what are your thoughts? also, which cams would you recomend? all help is appreciated
Click to expand...


if you plan on getting P&P heads, save your money and get cams at that time. otherwise you are wasting money on the cam install.

for more power, and to get the car ready for a s/c, finish the exhaust, 180* t-stat, t/b and plenum (if you aren't going with the Bullit intake) and work on the rear suspension.
 

GoBabyVroommm

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Get the heads and cam at the same time if you can. If you just get the cam kool you wouldn't hurt anything its not that much power. If you work on suspension and take off weight you'll be flyin.
 
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DerekStangGT

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why would i need to get the cams and P&P heads at the same time? more power? also, what does a 180* thermostat do? i know i need suspension stuff, but my only concern now is building a strong, reliable engine. ive heard the pistons from ford are weak, are the only replacements gonna be forged pistons? sorry for all the questions, but i need a lot of info to get caught up
 

DBMSTNG

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DerekStangGT said:
why would i need to get the cams and P&P heads at the same time?
Click to expand...

so you don't have to pay for installation twice.

DerekStangGT said:
also, what does a 180* thermostat do?
Click to expand...

it heps your engine run a little cooler.


DerekStangGT said:
but my only concern now is building a strong, reliable engine. ive heard the pistons from ford are weak, are the only replacements gonna be forged pistons? sorry for all the questions, but i need a lot of info to get caught up
Click to expand...

the stock bottom end will hold up to around 400rwhp. as long as you don't have detonation, you'll be fine. a forged bottom end is going to cost around $3000 not including the install.
 
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DerekStangGT

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DBMSTNG said:
so you don't have to pay for installation twice.



it heps your engine run a little cooler.




the stock bottom end will hold up to around 400rwhp. as long as you don't have detonation, you'll be fine. a forged bottom end is going to cost around $3000 not including the install.
Click to expand...

so the bottom end is what exactly? the pistons? the crank? would my cams be ok if i installed them on the stock heads? would the 180* thermostat benefit my engine now?
 

DBMSTNG

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DerekStangGT said:
so the bottom end is what exactly? the pistons? the crank?
Click to expand...

pistons, rods, and crankshaft.


DerekStangGT said:
would my cams be ok if i installed them on the stock heads?
Click to expand...

yes, but most likely, you'll need new springs and a tune as well. and it's going to cost an arm an a leg to get them installed. that's why i highly recommend waiting until you get the heads done before messing with the cams.

DerekStangGT said:
would he 180* thermostat benefit my engine now?
Click to expand...

yes, it's a little bit of insurance against knocking. it may also give you an extra hp or 2. it's only $4 at the autoparts store.
 

3ponyshow

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I've asked the same questions from those that have been there, because I'm in the same market. (I'm not one, obviously) so take this for what it's worth. If you're eventually going s/c, don't do the cams or heads YET! Because whatever you get n/a will not be what you want s/c. The price (I've been told from all I asked) will be around 3K with labor to get what you're asking for. The cost is almost that of the s/c. Your gain would be 30-40 as opposed to 100+. And DMBSTNG said the same thing they did. If you're gonna do the cams, do the heads. I wanted Comp 262's and was told for what I was getting, I would be spending a hell of alot of money. Hope this helps.
 
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DerekStangGT

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3ponyshow said:
I've asked the same questions from those that have been there, because I'm in the same market. (I'm not one, obviously) so take this for what it's worth. If you're eventually going s/c, don't do the cams or heads YET! Because whatever you get n/a will not be what you want s/c. The price (I've been told from all I asked) will be around 3K with labor to get what you're asking for. The cost is almost that of the s/c. Your gain would be 30-40 as opposed to 100+. And DMBSTNG said the same thing they did. If you're gonna do the cams, do the heads. I wanted Comp 262's and was told for what I was getting, I would be spending a hell of alot of money. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

thanks for the help. i was wondering if i can add some blower cams while im still n/a and keep them on for a year or more until i save enough for the blower. also, how/where do i install the 180* thermostat?
 

3ponyshow

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  • Jun 7, 2004
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DerekStangGT said:
thanks for the help. i was wondering if i can add some blower cams while im still n/a and keep them on for a year or more until i save enough for the blower.
Click to expand...

I was told you can, but why would you. For the amount of money spent for little gains, if you're ultimately going to get both, it's kind of an ass backwards way of doing it. Get the big gains up front.

Also, from what I've seen, when you add a blower, you're probably going to be in the mid 300's rwhp. With the blower cams and heads you're probably going to push or exceed that rule of thumb 400 rwhp area. Now you're pushing you're stock bottom end because you haven't invested in the forged stuff yet.

And with all this, you still need to put all this power to the ground. So back to you're original statement. You want to build a strong engine before an s/c. You definately have to upgrade the suspension. The internals are already good for an s/c but if you want an s/c with blower heads and cams, you'll want forged internals first. So those are what I would concentrate on. Then the s/c, then the cams and heads.

Please keep in mind, this is only my opinion. Just trying to give you a different perspective. Hope it helps.
 
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MoNsTaMaCk24

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Wellif your automatic you have to watch what cams you buy you will need a stall... You can add blower cams on a naturally aspirated cars as long as you plan to upgrade later! Remember there is a guy wo put downer over 600 rwhp on stock heads and intake... If your limiting yourself with a stock block i would forget P&P of PI heads... I believe that should only be done if your naturally aspirated or you build a shortblock... Buy a blower first! See if you want anymore hp... Go big then add small!!!
 

hognutz

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#14
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my .02. do one or the other. supercharger or heads and cams. if you want to very safely supercharger do a forged bottom end but if you are careful you should not have to. your stock heads and cams are good to over 500hp with with lots of boost and a forged bottom end so heads and cams are proably not a must have if you run a forged bottom end.

now if you stay n/a heads and cams are a must IMO. I guess my point is if you do every thing you will have lots of $$$$$$$ in your car. my personal opinion is unless you car is going to be a money pit you do one way or the other. both ways will you will end up with a fast car.


I think just a supercharger is the cheapest way to get you car going good. just because of the fact it is one labor step. now if you work or your own car then it is a toss up. I am leaning towards N/A because I am stupid and would probably end up hurting my stock engine if I supercharged it. I don't want to replace my shortblock untill I need to. I do my own work so there is not labor just part cost. heads, cams, tune will be about $2500. that is cheaper than a charger. since you already have 4:10's if you could hook you would be in the mid 12's I would think.

here is a rough breakdown as I see it.

heads and cams $2500 + labor ~290-310hp
cetri s/c $3800 + labor ~350-370hp
kb s/c $5000 +labor ~375-425hp
forged s/c $7000-8500 + labor ~450-550hp
forged s/c heads cams 10k+ ~a sh$tloadhp
 
M

MoNsTaMaCk24

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#15
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Basically what I said... You just took it further and I couldnt say it any better!!!
 
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