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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Want to lower 08 a tad without issues.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Randy 25
  • Start date Start date Jan 22, 2009
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Randy 25

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#1
  • Jan 22, 2009
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Would like to lower my new 08 mildly and not end up with front end bump steer or alignment or any rubbing problems, etc. (if that's all possible). In many searches think I found one set of lowering springs that only take it down 1" in front and something like 1.3" in rear. I know there's a ton of lowered GTs out there, but any with jut the mild lowering like I'm thinking of doing? If so, what else do I have to do? Panhard bar issues? Front end alignment? New snubbers? I've done so many searches my head hurts. Only had the car a week now so its currently bone stock. Thanks. Any tips appreciated!!
 

NastyStang113

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#2
  • Jan 22, 2009
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Any time you adjust the height in the front, it'll need an alignment. An Adj. Panhard Bar will be needed for everything over an inch as a general rule of thumb. My car was off from the factory so lowering it only made it worse.
 
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Randy 25

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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NastyStang113 said:
Any time you adjust the height in the front, it'll need an alignment. An Adj. Panhard Bar will be needed for everything over an inch as a general rule of thumb. My car was off from the factory so lowering it only made it worse.
Click to expand...
So how would I know if its off from the factory, just get under it and measure very carefully and see if the differential is centered or the clearances are the same on both sides? Ok, so I'd need adjustable panhard bar and an alignment. Anything else in front? Seems to be all sorts of camber plates and other aftermarket stuff for front end out there, etc. I've also read some say lowering it will wear out the shocks faster - if so, why would that happen?
 

NastyStang113

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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I also recommend doing shocks/struts at the same time but it's not a requirement. There is nothing else that is a requirement. The 2005s had strut mounts that were touchy so a lot of guys were replacing them as a rule of thumb but that's not the case with 2006+ MYs. Caster/camber plates are sure nice but I don't have them and they are without a doubt not a requirement.

The lowering springs will have a stiffer spring rate that the factory shocks aren't designed for so it'll wear them out faster. My girlfriend's car has Steeda Ultralight springs on it and the factory shocks/struts are about shot with 20,000 miles on the shocks/struts. I've got Tokico D-Specs are my car and won't recommend anything else. I've helped install quite a few suspensions with all different brands of shocks/struts and I think these are the best out there.

Here's a write up on an adjustable panhard bar .. This is the easiest way to do it and pretty effective.

S197 Ford Mustang Panhard Bar Install - Ford Mustang | StangNet.com
 
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07 Boss

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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Stock struts and shocks are tuned to the stock suspension. When you you change your ride height and spring rate, if your shocks are not specific to those they will wear faster. I just lowered mine about 1.5" and kept the stock struts and shocks on for now. It's not vital that you change those now. You may encounter alignment issues or you may not. Your planned drop is pretty mild and may not have any issues, but be prepared just in case. With the drop in the rear you may encounter whell hop issues because your LCA's may not be at the optimum angle to work properly. When I put my eibach springs in I cahnged over to an adj. panhard bar, billet LCA's with relocation brackets, and an adj. UCA. If you have any more specific questions just PM me. I did the install last week and have everything fresh in my head.

Before install


After install

 

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  • afterPro-Kitrear.webp
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  • dropped.webp
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NastyStang113

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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Any time a suspension height is lowered or raised in the front it needs an alignment.
 
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07 Boss

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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NastyStang113 said:
Any time a suspension height is lowered or raised in the front it needs an alignment.
Click to expand...

This is true. I also installed some Steeda billet camber plates.
 

NastyStang113

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07 Boss said:
This is true. I also installed some Steeda billet camber plates.
Click to expand...

I must of took what you said wrong. I read it as you were saying you might need an alignment or you might not. Did you mean once you install the shocks/struts?
 
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07 Boss

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NastyStang113 said:
I must of took what you said wrong. I read it as you were saying you might need an alignment or you might not. Did you mean once you install the shocks/struts?
Click to expand...

I didn't mention not getting an alignment for the front. I have heard some guys on the forums say that they didn't need an alignment after doing their drop. I find this hard to believe, that's why I put the plates in anyways. I haven' got mine aligned yet. I put a 1/2 a degree of adjustment in mine just as a guess until I go get it aligned. I was going to drive around for about another week to let the parts settle. So I didn't want to give him any advice if I didn't know for sure if he was going to need it. I might take my car in and they might tell me that I have too much positive camber and to take the plates out. I'd rather not say anything at all, then tell someone something wrong. Kinda like mom says, "if you ain't got nothin good to say, don't say nothin at all."

Yes, you should get an alignment after lowering the car. I think that some people after a mild drop find that they are not that far off spec. and don't make any adjustments. I plan on resetting my panhard bar after another week. I just eyballed it when I installed my springs. I set my UCA to stock but plan on measuring my pinion angle and making the necessary adjustments also. The front end I will have to take it in to measure the camber. don't have the proper tools for measuring. I think rick at radmustangs mentioned he was trying out some kind of camber measuring device.
 
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Randy 25

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Ok, interesting and useful - thanks. Especially for before and after pics. I was kind of thinking that if I stayed away from the 1.5" /2" drop front/back with something less, then I would have less other things to correct and in turn spend less money on other corrective fixes and in turn have less ammo for Ford to say no warranty due to...etc., etc. (And I have read the Moss Mang... act and think I understand it fairly well.)
 

NastyStang113

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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I have Steeda Sport Springs which are a mild drop. The alignment is barely in spec with factory components. It was way off to begin with so my original statement still stands. If you don't care about tires than have at it.
 

Power4

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Jan 22, 2009
#12
  • Jan 22, 2009
  • #12
I've been thinking of lowering my '07 soon and was wondering the same thing as the original post. However I was just going to buy the Roush suspension set and install that so I know everything will work well together. It says it only drops the car 1" and from what you guys have said that wouldn't require an adjustable panhard bar, correct?
 
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07 Boss

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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NastyStang113 said:
I have Steeda Sport Springs which are a mild drop. The alignment is barely in spec with factory components. It was way off to begin with so my original statement still stands. If you don't care about tires than have at it.
Click to expand...

I agree with you. I have edited my reply to state such. By all means you should get an alignment. All I was try to tell the guy was that some people have said that they didn't need an alignment after doing the drop. I firmly believe that you should get an alignment for the sake of your tires and handling.
 
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07 Boss

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Power4 said:
I've been thinking of lowering my '07 soon and was wondering the same thing as the original post. However I was just going to buy the Roush suspension set and install that so I know everything will work well together. It says it only drops the car 1" and from what you guys have said that wouldn't require an adjustable panhard bar, correct?
Click to expand...

When you drop the car the rear end will shift to one side. How much and what you are willing to tolerate is up to you, but I think that you should. If you want consistant launches and proper handling, the rear end must be properly centered.
 

Power4

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  • Jan 22, 2009
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07 Boss said:
When you drop the car the rear end will shift to one side. How much and what you are willing to tolerate is up to you, but I think that you should. If you want consistant launches and proper handling, the rear end must be properly centered.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. Certainly couldn't hurt to get a panhard bar then.
 

Margarita Girl

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#16
  • Jan 22, 2009
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I have the Roush springs (not the kit) front and back. Supposed to drop 3/4". Another option for mild drop are the Vogtland leveling springs. I switched to the Koni adjustable shocks and struts when I had the springs done. My tires are a smidge lower than stock 255/45/18, 285/40/18 so I'm as low as I wanna be.
 

walter

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#17
  • Jan 22, 2009
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+1 on the Roush Springs, They lower the car just enough for you to not look like an F150 but not so much that you look up at skateboards.
 
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SpringBreak98

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#18
  • Jan 22, 2009
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Has any one here ever thought of using the suspension kit from ford racing?

I know it's fairly expensive (like 1200 bucks)

The only reason I am considering using that is cause my 08 GT doesn't even have 3k miles on it, and I'm under warranty till 75k.
I'm friends with the dealerships owner and he said if I purchased that I would get a discount, plus his crew would do the install, alignment etc. and I'd still be under warranty.

To me, the only reason this sounds like a bad idea is the cost..

Quite possibly my worst first post on any forum I've belonged to btw..
 

NastyStang113

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#19
  • Jan 22, 2009
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Steeda Sport Springs, Tokico D-Specs, BMR Adj. Panhard Bar + Brace, BMR Billet LCAs + Relocation Brackets, BMR Adj. UCA, and Steeda Sway Bars.

View attachment 275949
 
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07 Boss

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#20
  • Jan 22, 2009
  • #20
hey nasty, where are all your cool avatars with the chicks?
 
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