WAP vs Iron block?

[PDHSB]

I recently came in the possession of a WAP 4.6 4v out of an Aviator. My plan was to swap it in, but looks like it has bad cylinder rings (same problem that made me look for a swap). Now that I have it, should I take the iron or aluminum block to the machine shop? I don't know if the weight savings are worth it. My current plan is to machine the block, and reuse the rotating assembly and heads out of my 2v. My 2v has stage 2 cams and I'm planning on hand porting the heads (just the runners, no valve job) if that's relevant.

 

[jchock]

I also recently came into getting a WAP block. My 2000 has its original Windsor with 83,000 miles and still strong. I’m not sure what this WAP Block came out of either. I’m assuming that all the motor mount holes were the same so it should bolt right up??? I’m really not sure which mods would need to be done to the block for it to mount properly. I’ve looked for threads but have not had a lot of luck.

 

[Deleted member 38176]

I personally cant stand the culture of mustang owners that think that they have a "polished gem" when they get their hands on a teksid or WAP block. Its downright ridiculous and incredibly annoying. The weight difference is negligible. My preference are iron blocks.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

I personally cant stand the culture of mustang owners that think that they have a "polished gem" when they get their hands on a teksid or WAP block. Its downright ridiculous and incredibly annoying. The weight difference is negligible. My preference are iron blocks.

All three blocks are nigh indestructible. I only have a Teksid block because I stumbled upon a Mark VIII engine, pulled and running, for $200. I would've been completely happy with a WAP or iron block engine.

Don't get me wrong though, saying "Teksid block" is a lot of fun.