Warped Rotor? or Rotors??

Kdubslugga

Active Member

Jun 7, 2003

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38

Akron, OH

Jul 8, 2004

#1

• Jul 8, 2004

• #1

When im coming to a stop, my brakes feel like there catchin and then for a split second feel like there slipping, almost like the pads arent touching the rotor. Does this sound like some bad rotors? they are stock. 135k miles If they need replaced what is a better rotor to invest in, Slotted or Cross Drilled, or both?? I checked the pads and they arent bad so i dunno what else to think

 

bmorrisj

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Sep 26, 2003

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Buena Park, CA

Jul 8, 2004

#2

• Jul 8, 2004

• #2

this calls for a 5 lug conversion w/ cobra rotors and calipers

 

Kdubslugga

Active Member

Jun 7, 2003

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Akron, OH

Jul 8, 2004

#3

• Jul 8, 2004

• #3

I like how you think! One problem though i dont have that kinda money to throw around right now. Is a 5 lug conversion a must, performance wise what does that do for you?

 

dastang2

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Dec 11, 2003

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tx

Jul 8, 2004

#4

• Jul 8, 2004

• #4

does the car shake violently when the brakes are pushed, how about the steering wheel.

 

bmorrisj

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Sep 26, 2003

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Buena Park, CA

Jul 8, 2004

#5

• Jul 8, 2004

• #5

you dont want to be cheap and skimp on brakes, which is the difference from a safe stop or a slide into another car.....these cars have weak stopping capacity stock... you dont have to go to 5 lug, that just increases new wheel selection...you can get cobra style 4 lug rotors and calipers too...

 

Kdubslugga

Active Member

Jun 7, 2003

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Akron, OH

Jul 8, 2004

#6

• Jul 8, 2004

• #6

My plans were to upgrade the brakes ever so slowly. Is it at all possible to have a 4 lug system with disc brake in the rear? The car doesnt shake violently at all though!

 

dastang2

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Dec 11, 2003

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tx

Jul 8, 2004

#7

• Jul 8, 2004

• #7

yes it is possible to have a 4 wheel disc brake system with 4 lugs. there is a badass car in spring tx, with that same setup.

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

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Stafford,VA

Jul 8, 2004

#8

• Jul 8, 2004

• #8

i would look into power stop also grab a copy of MM&FF and they have tons of companys that sell rotor and caliper kits for like 4 or 5 hundred.

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

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Jan 15, 2002

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Dallas, GA

Jul 8, 2004

#9

• Jul 8, 2004

• #9

If it pulses the break pedal and the steering wheel it is the rotors being warped, but you described it a little differently. A glazed rotor will not grip the pad well causing it to be hard to break. One thing that can cause problems such as you described is hot spots, small glazed areas in the rotor. So it will grip-slip-grip-slip, similar symptoms as a warped rotor. Measure thier width and if they are above spec have them turned with a fine cut. Warped rotors, glazing, and hotspots are caused by two things, incorrect/uneven lug nut torque but mostly excessive heat. Sometimes a sticking caliper or caliper slide can cause this also. Either way your getting excessive heat so either your riding the brake, waiting until the last 20 feet to stop, or there is a probem with the rear brakes. Mostly they are just out of adjustment. I adjust them from the inside until there is no play between the rotor and shoes.

The 4 lug rear brake conversion is off the T birds and SVO mustangs.

 

88stangmangt

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Nov 25, 2003

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Stafford,VA

Jul 8, 2004

#10

• Jul 8, 2004

• #10

check the pads too............

 

Kdubslugga

Active Member

Jun 7, 2003

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38

Akron, OH

Jul 8, 2004

#11

• Jul 8, 2004

• #11

well something is definetly up with my brakes, the front brakes are squeeking really bad now, and i have a gravel driveway and when i sit in the drive with my foot on the brake the back tires will spin in the gravel. Somethings not right at all. What does this sound like so i dont spend forever trying to find it.

 

8

87'GTstang

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Feb 16, 2004

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Jul 8, 2004

#12

• Jul 8, 2004

• #12

That means your shoes are worn down in the back and the sound is possibly the sound your brakes make (wear indicators) when the rivets start to dig in. Take off a tire on the rear and just knock the drum off of the brakes and check out the brake shoes and the inside of the drum. If you feel ridges on the drum, you have the rivets already digging in. Measure the shoes next and they must be at least 3/32" of an inch thick to pass inspection. Anything less is around the dangerous level for poor stopping. In addition to that, I agree mostly with what 90mustangt said about the rest.

Also the same 3/32" applies to the front brake pads for safety reasons. About corss-drilled or slotted, both have disadvantages and advantages. But overall i'de go with cross-drilled as slotted have a reputation for "digging" into the pads and wearing them down faster.