Wash & Wax Recommendations

If you are looking for a good polish to use since you are still learning the PC the Poorboy's SSR1 and SSR2.5 are the way to go. The SSR line is easier to learn and see how to properly break down polish. The Optimum is excellent but takes a bit longer to break down. I do think the Optimum polish gives a better finish than the SSR1 as the final polish.

I love the Opti-Seal too! I've done about 15 vehicles with it and it isn't even down to halfway yet!

justin said:

If you are looking for a good polish to use since you are still learning the PC the Poorboy's SSR1 and SSR2.5 are the way to go. The SSR line is easier to learn and see how to properly break down polish. The Optimum is excellent but takes a bit longer to break down. I do think the Optimum polish gives a better finish than the SSR1 as the final polish.

I love the Opti-Seal too! I've done about 15 vehicles with it and it isn't even down to halfway yet!

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Thanks for the tips! I think I might give the OP a shot sometime. I wasn't aware of your site, but I like that you're here on the boards in case any questions come up. You'll be seeing an order from me here before too long.

As far as proper break down, what I've been doing is priming the pad with I believe it's XMT pad conditioner, then applying an "X" to the pad and then rubbing it on the car at about 1.5, then moving to 5 and working it in for 3 to 4 minutes, sometimes less if I get a lot of dusting which I noticed it does a lot. I've been reapplying about 3 or 4 small drops of polish to the pad before moving on to the next section.

Does that sound about right? This seems to be working well, so I feel like I'm doing it right, but if there is something I should be doing differently that could help with the process, I'd appreciate the input!

With the Poorboy's and Optimum polishes there is no need to prime it with anything besides the product. When you first load the pad you can do an x like you were saying, then after that a couple of nickel sized dots is all you will need for each panel. With the Optimum you can usually get away with even less, you can work it in so much longer without drying out, but if you put too much you will be working it in forever.

justin said:

With the Poorboy's and Optimum polishes there is no need to prime it with anything besides the product. When you first load the pad you can do an x like you were saying, then after that a couple of nickel sized dots is all you will need for each panel. With the Optimum you can usually get away with even less, you can work it in so much longer without drying out, but if you put too much you will be working it in forever.

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Thanks again!

Loves the Mothers stuff. I find for cost, ease of obtaining it and general quality (and smell) it does very nicely for me.

And definitely agree on the claybar from Mothers, I tried it out for the first time several years ago after it showed up one day on a local parts store shelf and I hadn't seen it before. I claybared a leased and 3 year old 97 SHO and the end results were night and day, and I kept this thing pretty clean. Before I could throw a rag on the hood and it would just sit there. When I clay bared I did the same thing and the rag slid right off the hood, and this was before I even waxed!!

Hawk07v6 said:

I use ICE liquid Wax. Goes nice a quick, about half the time as using any other wax.

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ICE is very nice and easy. I switched over last year from Mcquires. I see that the turtle has com out with a Ice Clay Bar. I will try it on my old truck one day.

I didn't care for the ICE wax. I did it once and it worked OK but application was a bit of a PITA. Sometimes I like seeing where my wax is so I can properly remove it.

Love the ICE detailer spray though, I use that stuff all the time.