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Water coming from valve covers?

  • Thread starter Thread starter cjnecessary
  • Start date Start date Aug 29, 2007
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5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
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Aug 31, 2007
#21
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #21
cjnecessary said:
Well it was the intake gasket right by the water ports, I think did'nt have enough time to get it all the way back together. But the 1250 was soaked in the water port area. When I changed the oil the rear sump drain plug striped out when I pulled it out so all in all I LOVE MY CAR!!!!! Anyway I'll give you an update tom. to see if I got everything worked out.
Click to expand...

That is what I figured Did you realize why it was the intake gasket?

The intake gasket is much more likely to be damaged or installed faulty over the headgasket. As you found out...

Did you strip the threads in the oil pan bung? Or the threads on the oil plug? Or the 5/8"? head on the oil plug?
 

ninety15.0

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#22
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #22
S hitty....dam those drain plugs. Get a little JB weld on there! If that doesnt work...duct tape.

Well at least you solved one problem...and a big one at that.
 

bill302

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Nov 2, 2005
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alabama,gadsden
Aug 31, 2007
#23
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #23
2 steps forward one step back...go to the parts store they make an oversize oil pan bolt that will cut new threads into the oil pan bolt hole as you install it. glad to hear you resolved the first problem...
 
C

cjnecessary

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Aug 31, 2007
#24
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #24
It was the plug itself the threads closest to the head, just pulled one out of the water logged 351w in the 84. On the leak I think that a little rust had set up on the mating sirface of the head. Cleaned it w/ some 400 grit and think she is good as new. Fingers crossed anyway.
 
C

cjnecessary

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#25
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #25
update, I put water in it and we are back to square one still getting water in the oil. Same problems as before. I guess it's time for a head gasket and I'll get the heads checked while I'm at it, I may end up w/ more compression by the time its done. Just want to know anyone want a 90 coupe w/ a black int. thats got a water in the oil problem? If the head gasket doesnt fix it I'll quit working on mustangs,























































untill next time anyway!!!!
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
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Aug 31, 2007
#26
  • Aug 31, 2007
  • #26
So what made you think it was the lower intake to begin with?

I imagine you changed the oil after the change of the new intake gasket again, right?

Good Luck
 
C

cjnecessary

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#27
  • Sep 1, 2007
  • #27
yeah I changed the oil, what made me think it was the lower intake was the rust on the mating surface, but I guess I was wrong. Maybe I'll get it right soon. I hope anyway.
 
C

cjnecessary

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Sep 3, 2007
#28
  • Sep 3, 2007
  • #28
So I pulled the heads and found scaling in the water ports and it seems like the head gaskets only have a 1/8 inch holes for the water ports is this right?
 

bill302

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Nov 2, 2005
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alabama,gadsden
Sep 3, 2007
#29
  • Sep 3, 2007
  • #29
that is correct...pic of my old headgasket...look at the pistons are any noticeably cleaner than the others? alot of times if you have a bad headgasket leak the pistion where the coolant is leaking into will be alot cleaner than the others because the steam cleans the carbon off the piston..


 

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cjnecessary

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#30
  • Sep 3, 2007
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Ah, thanks for the pic I guess I have a different problem some where. Any ideas?
 

bill302

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alabama,gadsden
Sep 3, 2007
#31
  • Sep 3, 2007
  • #31
look at the pistons are any noticeably cleaner than the others? alot of times if you have a bad headgasket leak the pistion where the coolant is leaking into will be alot cleaner than the others because the steam cleans the carbon off the piston..and you have to look closely at the headgasket to see signs of coolant passing from coolant passages to cylinder..
 
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cjnecessary

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#32
  • Sep 3, 2007
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The h/g's where only on there for about ten minutes of run time. So I guess they look pretty good to me. I don't see any signs of a blown h/g. I think that maybe the heads did'nt get cleaned by me good enough. Oh well I will start from scratch and see if that fixes the problem unless you have another idea. Should I get the heads checked by a machine shop? I just got done cleaning the scaling.
 

bill302

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Nov 2, 2005
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alabama,gadsden
Sep 3, 2007
#33
  • Sep 3, 2007
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i would get the heads checked for cracks and flatness...what type of headbolts did you use...you will need a new set if there torque to yield.
 
C

cjnecessary

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#34
  • Sep 3, 2007
  • #34
I used arp head studs.
 
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cjnecessary

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#35
  • Sep 3, 2007
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Do you think the studs are leaking.
 

bill302

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alabama,gadsden
Sep 3, 2007
#36
  • Sep 3, 2007
  • #36
good you can reuse the studs...and no the head bolt holes that are under the valve covers do not penetrate the water jacket the lower bolt holes do and need to be coated with high temp nonhardening sealant...like in pic. below that is what i use.

 

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cjnecessary

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#37
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Thanks I will go get some. Thanks for all your help today. Time to go to work on the car. Love long weekends!!!
 
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cjnecessary

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Sep 4, 2007
#38
  • Sep 4, 2007
  • #38
Ok I feel real real real dumb right now I think all my problems might have been the 3/8 to 7/16 shims/washer things for the head studs I did'nt use them when I first put it together. Don't ask why cause I will just have to tell you my head was up my butt. They are on now so lets see if that works.
 
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cjnecessary

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Sep 6, 2007
#39
  • Sep 6, 2007
  • #39
Still having some trouble here could I get water from the timing cover?
 
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