I'm about to replace the door weatherstripping in my car and I'm a little lost on what I should have set aside to help the installation. I got my strip from summit the soft seal door to body kit. I was reading over the instructions and it mentions nylon pins and adhesive that needs to be used when doing it. I was curious of where I could buy some spare nylon pins and what adhesive I need to get the weatherstrip installed correctly. I'm not the most gentle guy in the world especially with brittle stuff and thats how everything seems to be on a 20 year old car which is why I wanted to grab some extra pins just in case. Thanks in advance guys.
Weatherstrip questions.
- Thread starter MoneygrubbinCar
- Start date
Nylon pins? I don't remember needing any pins.
The on-body weatherstrips are easy to change. Your new ones should have a small bead of gorilla snot in the channel that fits over the metal ridge where the weatherstrip goes, but that is it. You pull the old one off and push the new one on.
Start at the bottom, middle of the door and work your way up the front and around to meet where you started.
Pretty cut and dry swap.
The on-body weatherstrips are easy to change. Your new ones should have a small bead of gorilla snot in the channel that fits over the metal ridge where the weatherstrip goes, but that is it. You pull the old one off and push the new one on.
Start at the bottom, middle of the door and work your way up the front and around to meet where you started.
Pretty cut and dry swap.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter 
It is also a little easier to get the strip around if you loosen the 1/4 molding, but to do this you will need to remove the seat belt bolt. It takes a torx or a pair of vice grips.
bloopbloob
Member
although vice-grips can solve just about any problem, its usually just not too pretty when you're done!!
its easy. just peel off the old stuff after you loosen all the trim around it so you dont crack anything (which included removing the seatbelt bolts with a torx for me). Just peel it off and push the new stuff on! takes only a couple minutes!
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
No, don't take me wrong. I would use the torx. I was just throwing that out there if he didn't have one or wanted to spend the $. The correct tool is always the best.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
Yeah if you loosen that Bolt then you need to use the Torx Bit so that you can Torque it to Spec as it is a Safety Issue!!!
The torx? What the heck is that contraption suppost to be and suppost to be used for? 
I'd feel weird just goin to the parts store and askin if they got one. Lol safety issue thats what my car is anyways. My seatbelts only retract when the doors are open when the doors are shut they dont retract at all when pulled out. So I pretty much wear it for looks. 
Thanks again for the replies I'll see if I can search out this torx thing.
I'd feel weird just goin to the parts store and askin if they got one. Lol safety issue thats what my car is anyways. My seatbelts only retract when the doors are open when the doors are shut they dont retract at all when pulled out. So I pretty much wear it for looks. Thanks again for the replies I'll see if I can search out this torx thing.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
Yea I figured out what you guys were talkin about when I popped off the cover for the seatbelt. I was lucky enough to have the tools instead of spendin the money on that. I did get the weather strip installed on both sides. It turns out the weatherstripping being all torn up is only half of the problem. My doors have a little sag to them which I guess which is just bad enough to leave a hairline crack in some areas between the door and the seal. So my next step is replacing the worn pins I think thats what 50resto says is a common problem browsin their door parts atleast. Is that gonna be a pain in the a** or a simple install? I've never messed with door pins and hinges so I'm a little unsure of what I'm getting into.
88-378
Member
If the current pins are NOT the originals, then it will be a piece of cake. If they are the originals, they will be tougher.
Open the door and use a floor jack with a short peiece of 2x4 on it (something solid but fairly soft like wood). Place the jack under the door at his furthest point and jack it until it JUST TOUCHES the bottom of the door. Now work on removing the pins ONE HINGE AT A TIME. If they have already been replaced, there should be a cotter pin holding the door pin in place, remove the cotter pin and slide out the door pin. If it is the original set, you might need a cutoff wheel of some sort or a saw to cut through the middle of the pin so you can slide out the two halfs. Once you remove the pin then clean out the holes in the two halves of the hinges and remove the bushings. Place the new bushings in the hinges, coat the pins with bearning grease and slide the new pin in place, using the supplied cotter pin to hold the pin in place as per the directions.
Move on to the next hinge and repeat.
The purpose of the jack is to keep the door from falling when you remove the pins, and it being a jack you can slightly raise or lower the door to get the correct angle so the old pins slide out and the new pins slide in easier.
Thanks Fett for clearing that up it doesn't sound like to much of a job as I'm making it to be. I beleive they are the original pins but I do have plenty of cutting tools so I should be alright on getting them out. Thanks guys I'd be a lost puppy on fixin some of these things without this place.
