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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

weird problem...please take a look

  • Thread starter Thread starter rock4451
  • Start date Start date Jul 11, 2009

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 11, 2009
#1
  • Jul 11, 2009
  • #1
Okay, I just got my 95 cobra last week, upon getting it home I noticed an exhaust leak at a gas station, no big deal, the x pipe is in the mail now. but i dont think thats related to my problem (help me out?) my car starts and idles fine, but when driving it feels like there's a slight miss in it. when i step on it, it doesn't exactly feel like a miss but just not as strong as it should. i replaced the wires, checked plugs (all look new), changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter, and changed the battery (it was bad anyway). it still feels like a slight miss, and my tach jumps up or down in intervals of about 2 or 300 when i'm cruising at say 60? from what i've read looks like distributor, but any other input is more than welcome.
 
3

302GTS

If you need herpes, I'm your man!
Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Jul 12, 2009
#2
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #2
Check the MAF sensor for dirt and grime, clean it for sure. Spray some carb cleaner on a qtip, and lightly rub the dirt off until the qtips come out clean. Sounds just like a problem I used to have. Car ran great but just didn't pull hard past 3k rpms, and the tach would jump like crazy.
 
T

turbogt

Member
May 1, 2003
723
16
19
Montana
Jul 12, 2009
#3
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #3
302GTS said:
Check the MAF sensor for dirt and grime, clean it for sure. Spray some carb cleaner on a qtip, and lightly rub the dirt off until the qtips come out clean. Sounds just like a problem I used to have. Car ran great but just didn't pull hard past 3k rpms, and the tach would jump like crazy.
Click to expand...

DO NOT TOUCH the filaments in the MAF.. Just buy some mass air sensor cleaner and spray the hell out of it..
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 12, 2009
#4
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #4
I have never had a problem with touching the MAF filaments with a q-tip. As long as you are very gentle, you won't break them.
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 12, 2009
#5
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #5
okay, great idea, i didnt even think of that, slipped my mind. i'll give it a whirl tomorrow and let ya know how it works. until then, anybody else have other experiences that were similar they could attest a possibility to? any ideas at all would be fantastic
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 12, 2009
#6
  • Jul 12, 2009
  • #6
so far i've ruled out the battery, wires, plugs, could be the coil (mine rattles a bit, its a MSD TFI Blaster coil, it can be wiggled up and down a bit) I am sure it is a spark or ignition prolem, because when it misses a bit, my rpms take a dip of about 2 or 300 for a split second...then come back up...and this can happen nonstop until i step on it. somebody has to have had some similar experience? i havent had a chance to clean the maf yet but thats a possibility, i just dont think it would affect a miss and my tach moving the same time as a miss
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 13, 2009
#7
  • Jul 13, 2009
  • #7
bump
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jul 13, 2009
#8
  • Jul 13, 2009
  • #8
Though the wires are new, check them for spark leak. They might be getting hot and limp and grounding out intermittantly.

Be sure the EGR is functioning properly.

If it misses at idle, run a cylinder balance test (you do that after pulling KOER codes).

Good luck.
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 14, 2009
#9
  • Jul 14, 2009
  • #9
KOER codes? i am not familiar, I had the guy at autozone run his diagnostic OBD II on it, and it came up with no codes, i only did this because i didnt wanna spend the money on it if they did it for free. im not sure how to pull the koer codes...i replaced the coil and it appeared to be running alright, but then about 5 hours later i took it for a drive and there the miss was again...while i was out, my dad gapped the plugs at 52, the guy before me had then gapped at 34. stock calls for 52 but maybe that is too big for my setup for some reason for it to keep constant spark? i am just thinking out loud, please give your input if you're electrical/ignition knowledgeable...
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 14, 2009
#10
  • Jul 14, 2009
  • #10
The 5.0 Mustangs are OBDI cars, not OBDII. The connector under the dash does NOT work on our cars. (it does work on the V6, Ford's way of saving money on parts) The scanner hookups for the 5.0 are behind the passenger shock tower.

KOEO - Key On Engine OFF tests. KOER - Key On Engine Running tests. The Autozone scanner can run these tests, then the codes are read. You have to run the KOEO test before running the KOER test. While each test is running, you'll hear things in the car click and turn on & off.
 

94GTCoupe

10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
1,412
92
79
CA
Jul 14, 2009
#11
  • Jul 14, 2009
  • #11
Posted via Mobile Device
and keep clear of the fan while the test are run.
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 14, 2009
#12
  • Jul 14, 2009
  • #12
okay, he did plug the connector in under the dash. you say it's besides the passenger side shock tower, can i use an OBD I on that or do i need a different scanner? thanks
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jul 14, 2009
#13
  • Jul 14, 2009
  • #13
rock4451 said:
okay, he did plug the connector in under the dash. you say it's besides the passenger side shock tower, can i use an OBD I on that or do i need a different scanner? thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, use the OBD-I Ford scanner.
 

desertcox05

New Member
Oct 3, 2007
379
0
0
south atlanta
Jul 15, 2009
#14
  • Jul 15, 2009
  • #14
get a haynes/ chilton manual.
It will help you with the engine codes and there meanings and also how to pull them with a paperclip. Plus loads of other great info unless you like to give your money to the stealership.
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 15, 2009
#15
  • Jul 15, 2009
  • #15
haha no, i have a haynes manual, i'll check it out. thanks
 

moosetang408w

New Member
Jul 13, 2005
90
0
0
Alberta, Canada
Jul 24, 2009
#16
  • Jul 24, 2009
  • #16
My car was doing the same thing but it turned out my battery was shorting internally. It could be a bad ground. Bad gnds do weird things. You changed your battery though so I don't know what to tell you except that both my mustangs did this due to bad grounds. Good luck.
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Jul 27, 2009
#17
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #17
My car did that when I got it and the coil was shot. The elctrode on the coil was worn creating a arc to the coil wire...
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Jul 27, 2009
#18
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #18
If you still got your OEM coil ............

put it back on and see if the prob goes away

Grady
 

rock4451

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 30, 2004
12
2
29
New Baden, IL
Jul 29, 2009
#19
  • Jul 29, 2009
  • #19
problem didn't go away...at full throttle, there's no miss, when my foot's off the gas, no miss, but if i am going say 60 and hold it steady at 60 the rpms jump down about 2-300 in intermittent spurts and jump back up to what they should be. i can also hear the car miss at the same time and it feels to vibrate slightly when it misses but as soon as i step on it, or take my foot off completely it doesnt do it anymore. i am completely stumped. changed the coil, got rid of my msd box, cleaned the maf, new IAC (which is unrelated), changed my wires, gapped my plugs at 52. should i check the voltage at the coil? new stock distributor is in the mail to be here today. i am just scratching my head b/c if it was with my valves or compression wouldn't it be constant no matter what? just frustrating as hell
 
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