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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

welding axle tubes and torque boxes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mustangog2003
  • Start date Start date Dec 9, 2006

Mustangog2003

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Nov 18, 2006
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Alabaster,Alabama
Dec 9, 2006
#1
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #1
Do u have to remove the whole rearend to get the axle tubes and torque boxes welded up?
 

sgarlic

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2001
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Dec 9, 2006
#2
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #2
no
 

tomustang

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Jun 8, 2000
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Dec 9, 2006
#3
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #3
but you should, in order to make a consistant 'good' bead you'll have to have each end to were you can reach them without anything in the way
 

Rickey_Bobby

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Nov 8, 2006
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Sarasota, FL
Dec 9, 2006
#4
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #4
is there a write up anywhere for this procedure?
 

DTMach1

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Jun 14, 2004
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Virginia Beach, VA
Dec 9, 2006
#5
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #5
it's easiest to remove the whole rear-end for the job...gives you a lot more room.

Also, if you have a back seat in, you'll need to remove it along with some of that sound deadning material.

I had 5 or 6 wet towels that I layed across the inside of the car.

You should be able to remove the rear in about an hour.
 

tomustang

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Dec 9, 2006
#6
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #6
Rickey_Bobby said:
is there a write up anywhere for this procedure?
Click to expand...

Chilton/Haynes is a good start
 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 10, 2002
9,457
1,377
234
Ontario, Canada
Dec 9, 2006
#7
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #7
Didn't either MM&FF or 5.0 Mustang give a detailed article on it in last months issue?
 

Rickey_Bobby

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Nov 8, 2006
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Sarasota, FL
Dec 9, 2006
#8
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #8
Hmm... The "custom modification" section must have fallen out of my haynes manual.

...I'll have to check out those mags tho. If not, I guess a case of beer and the welder will net some sort of result.
 

DTMach1

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Dec 9, 2006
#9
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #9
just remember if you're using a MIG you'll need to adjust the voltage for the different thickness metals...at some points its pretty thin.
 

BlueRuckus

New Member
Jun 30, 2005
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Miami, FL
Dec 9, 2006
#10
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #10
Check it.

http://www.************.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=14

MM&FF also recommended taking it down to do it.
 

BlueRuckus

New Member
Jun 30, 2005
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Miami, FL
Dec 9, 2006
#11
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #11
Hey what's up with the link I put?!
 

BlueRuckus

New Member
Jun 30, 2005
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Miami, FL
Dec 9, 2006
#12
  • Dec 9, 2006
  • #12
Anyway. Go to the Modular Depot website and go to the articles section and look up the one called:

Welding Your Axle Tubes and Torque Boxes
 
S

Smokeurhonda

New Member
May 1, 2003
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Maryland
Dec 10, 2006
#13
  • Dec 10, 2006
  • #13
Thanks for the link!
 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004
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Carmel, INdiana
Dec 10, 2006
#14
  • Dec 10, 2006
  • #14
I did it with the rear end out. Wasn't hard. For some of the larger gap welds in the torque boxes start by making large clean tacs, then welding from tac to tac slowly. This will also reduce heat stress, and the likely hood that your carpet will light on fire lol
 

the98stang

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Aug 12, 2005
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Dec 10, 2006
#15
  • Dec 10, 2006
  • #15
I heard that the axle tubes couldn't be welded unless the differential was heated a certain way because the metal material is very hard to weld
 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004
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Dec 10, 2006
#16
  • Dec 10, 2006
  • #16
the98stang said:
I heard that the axle tubes couldn't be welded unless the differential was heated a certain way because the metal material is very hard to weld
Click to expand...

The problem is that with MIG you have to crank the voltage up alot to penetrate the diff housing, but when you do that you risk burning straight through the axle tubes. Using a small MAAP gas torch, or even a propane torch if thats all you have, to pre-heat the axle housing might help a bit. Big thing is go really, really slow. If I was do to it again I would have done the axles with a stick welder because it lays down such a wider bead, and penetration is pretty much uniform with a decent pool - either that or learn to TIG
 
R

rpburnette

Member
May 22, 2003
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16
Tampa, FL
Dec 11, 2006
#17
  • Dec 11, 2006
  • #17
I thought the housing was cast, if that is the case, than you will need to heat the housing. Cast metals are hard to weld correctly. Sure, you can lay a weld down, but if you improperly weld cast metal, than it could cause damage. The idea is to evenly heat the cast metal before you weld.

If the housing is not cast than just disregard the statement above.

Now I have a question. If you weld your axle tubes to the housing, would the heat of the weld hurt anything inside the housing such as grease or bearings?
 
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