what 302 blocks and heads are the same a 95

any 302 block will work and heads. the question is how much power are you looking for with the turbo setup. anything over 500rwhp is gonna be a short block life if the block is a 5.0 HO block. you can look for early 70s 302 blocks with a D0 or D1 cast on the side. they are stronger due to a higher nickel content. if you want the ability to really turn the boost up then i would look into a dart or a boss 302 block if the money permits it

All of the roller blocks are the same, if you'd rather stay with a roller cam. Fastgtfairlane makes a good point about block strength, though. In high power setups, the block becomes the weak link, so looking toward the aftermarket is generally recommended. It gets expensive though, because the Dart blocks alone are pushing $2,000, and that doesn't include any machine work.

Any windsor heads would bolt right on, and all of your accessories would bolt to them. Just remember that if you stay with a factory set of heads and they come from a 351, you'll need the bushings for the headbolts, because the 351 uses 1/2" bolts, compared to the 302's 7/16" bolts.

I'd just stick with your current engine with perhaps a hone, rings, bearings and some fresh headgaskets and studs. Honestly, your stock rotating assembly will outlast the block itself with a proper tune.

Good advice above, but I would go with a forged piston if you rebuild the stock shortblock. They're a little more forgiving if you ping a little, than a hypereutectic piston is.

StangGT1995 said:

Good advice above, but I would go with a forged piston if you rebuild the stock shortblock. They're a little more forgiving if you ping a little, than a hypereutectic piston is.

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While that may be true...honestly, there are ton's of guys over on turbomustangs that have ran them with great success. Hell, there have been a few that have split the stock block in half and threw the assembly into another junkyard block.

I myself ran a stock explorer longblock (sans intake) without any issues whatsoever. The only reason I can see to upgrade the pistons is if you plan on going .30 over. If so, by all means upgrade to forged.

As far as the stock cast pistons go, my friends and I have had some pretty good "luck" with them over the years.

He had a 93 LX with heads, cam.. ect. he let a friend of his drive the car (not me lol) the guy missed a shift pretty bad, and buzzed the motor. everything seemed fine. About 6 months later, while replacing a headgasket (nitrous) we noticed that almost every piston had an extra "notch" in them. the valves had actually hit the pistons. So, we tore the heads down also.. some of the valves where bent,.. but in all honesty.. you would NEVER have known it. It ran the same ET's MPH ect, didnt burn oil.. nothing.

We fixed it up, (same pistons lol) put her back together, and it ran like a champ.. until we split the block in two!! and even when that crap took place,.. the motor STILL ran fine, just didnt have any oil pressure lol But, thats ok. it happened at the track, and we had trailered it down, so.. we loaded her up.. and off we went.

So, it could be a "hit and miss" deal.. but, we made enough power to split the block with the cast pistons.. like it was said above, if your tune is in check?.. I personally would worry more about the block, than I would be the pistons.

EDIT: yes, the 95 blocks are roller cam. every 5.0 (mustang) from at least 87 up is a roller motor. Im not sure about the other applications, the motor was used in a wide variety of vehicles that Ford produced, from trucks, to family cars.

The main differences are between the H.O and non H.O is the firing order, and I'm not sure about the valve-train.. but, I dont think they where a full roller deal like the H.0's.

As far as I know, the only MAJOR changes that happened over the years (H.0 motors), that "may" effect the strength of the bottom end is the pistons. Its either 90 or 91 that was the last year for the forged pistons, I know that 93-95 where cast.. beyond that, Im not positive when the change took place. I think it was 91, but dont quote me on that... because I think the "Cali" cars got the cast pistons first, then the fallowing year, every car had them. Im thinking Cali got them in 91, then the full changeover was in 92.. I could be wrong.

The reason for the change was emissions, as far as I understand. The cast pistons will expand quicker because of the heat, and seal the cylinder better/quicker than a forged piston will.

Anyway, sorry.. long ass'd edit.

Hope some of this helps.

My .02
Will.

If your looking for a stock block with forged pistons you want something from a late 80s to 91 and some 92's. The forged pistons ones had a gray oil pan. Another option is to get a long block from a explorer then have gt40 or gt40 p heads and intake but they do have hyper pistons. The hyper pistons will work fine usually you split the block or blow a head gasket. before breaking a piston

I ran 18 PSI and a 50 shot on a stock 95 long block. No piston or block problems but finally blew a HG when I detonated it. The key is don't detonate it

Check out this from turbo mustangs http://www.theturboforums.com/stockblock.php

fastgtfairlane said:

any 302 block will work and heads. the question is how much power are you looking for with the turbo setup. anything over 500rwhp is gonna be a short block life if the block is a 5.0 HO block. you can look for early 70s 302 blocks with a D0 or D1 cast on the side. they are stronger due to a higher nickel content. if you want the ability to really turn the boost up then i would look into a dart or a boss 302 block if the money permits it

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So say I get a boss 302 (*m-6010*) block, will it take my stock components?

Noobz347 said:

Yes

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All of em? I mean like if I take everything out of my stock block and put it in the m-6010, it will work? Even the obd1 system?

Noobz347 said:

The block does not care what fuel injection system you put in it.

The problem you will run into is the EEC's capability to [run] whatever combo you have stuck in there. It would require a custom chip-tune or a piggy-back.

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I mean I was already gonna get a twEECer chip so

Noobz347 said:

Steep learning curve, that.

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That it is, but one of my buddies has been tuning cars for a while, and I haven't heard anything bad about him and he said he'd teach me how tune the chip, I just wanna make sure this block is compatible as possible with oe parts.

An 8.2" deck block is a 8.2" deck block.
Does not matter if it is from a 67 Mustang or the Dart Iron Eagle Block out of my racecar.
Everything bolts up to it from any other 302 based block.
Obviously, it you bolted up stock parts to a Dart Iron Eagle block, we might ask that you get sent to a mental institution.
Why spend $3K on a race block for stock 302 parts?
You could, but why?