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What acid to use for stripping?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 67 GTA
  • Start date Start date Jul 9, 2006

67 GTA

Member
Feb 7, 2003
494
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16
Frankln, Kentucky
Jul 9, 2006
#1
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #1
I was thinking about trying acid to strip the many small metal parts that came off the fastback. I am having the car body chemically stripped (non acid). I wanted an effective method to use at home for the smaller pieces. I need to be able to strip paint and rust. Sanding and sandblasting do not always get the rust out of the pits. What can I use for this? I have seen alot of articles on phosphoric acid. Is there any other products besides acid that do the same thing? I have never used acid before. Can anyone clue me in?
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
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0
Southlake, TX
Jul 9, 2006
#2
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #2
sandblasting is your best bet. I have seen people us hydrochloric acid I believe which works but you gotta watch your but messing with these chemicals. Why dont you just send thos parts with the car to get dipped? Cant cost ya much more. I have had the best results with sandblasting over any other method
 
G

grego37

New Member
May 12, 2004
576
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0
Fresno CA
Jul 9, 2006
#3
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #3
there's a product called Aircraft Remover.
Either in a spray can or a brush on.
apply it, wait like 2 minutes and the paint bubbles and you scrape it off. Works great.

Did my entire car in a few hours.
 
W

wickedmach1

New Member
Apr 8, 2003
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0
Austin, TX
Jul 9, 2006
#4
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #4
DO NOT SANDBLAST THE HOOD unless you really know what you are doing. This can cause warping if the pressure is too great. Chemical stripping is good but messy. A good brand is called Aircraft Remover. Use a plastic scraper to peel away the layers of paint. Go back with steel wool for final removal. You can buy it at your local automotive store. I use a multi speed buffer with with 36 or 50 grit stickit disc. This removes the paint quickly and safely. This will also leave a scratch in the metal for good adhesion of the epoxy or primer. Set the speed so it is not too fast so the metal does not get too hot. This will also cause warping. You will need the foam stickit backing pad. If you don't have these tools and don't want to buy them, chemical stripping is your best bet. Just be sure to rinse all the chemicals off before you prime. Good luck!
 
R

Ronstang

New Member
Apr 4, 2004
1,294
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0
Houston Texas
Jul 9, 2006
#5
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #5
I use Muriatic Acid (Hydrochloric) to derust all my little metal parts....especially old rusty brake parts becuase it cleans inside as well. It will NOT remove paint. It is very effective. You can use baking soda in water to neutralize. I simply use water, then Metal Prep (PPG) which is another acid rust remover to clean and prevent any the flash rust and then follow it with the Metal Conditioner (PPG) that gives it a protective coating. I dry everything with air and then lay in the sun for a few minutes to get hot and then prime. I then either store them primed or paint them if I need them right away.
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Jul 9, 2006
#6
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #6
wickedmach1 said:
DO NOT SANDBLAST THE HOOD unless you really know what you are doing. This can cause warping if the pressure is too great. Chemical stripping is good but messy. A good brand is called Aircraft Remover. Use a plastic scraper to peel away the layers of paint. Go back with steel wool for final removal. You can buy it at your local automotive store. I use a multi speed buffer with with 36 or 50 grit stickit disc. This removes the paint quickly and safely. This will also leave a scratch in the metal for good adhesion of the epoxy or primer. Set the speed so it is not too fast so the metal does not get too hot. This will also cause warping. You will need the foam stickit backing pad. If you don't have these tools and don't want to buy them, chemical stripping is your best bet. Just be sure to rinse all the chemicals off before you prime. Good luck!
Click to expand...

i agree..i wouldnt sandblast ANY part of the body. I thought he was talking about brackets and stuff.
 

67 GTA

Member
Feb 7, 2003
494
0
16
Frankln, Kentucky
Jul 9, 2006
#7
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #7
All of the big panels like the doors, hood, trunk etc. and the shell are going to be dipped. They will also be dipped in E-coat primer. I thought about having everything dipped, but it is an eight hour round trip there and back. There are hundreds of small parts to clean and I can,t get them primed and painted before they start rusting again. I have a cabinet blaster, but my puny compressor can't keep up, so I only use it for very small parts. I have used Aircraft stripper before with good results, but with the number of parts on one car, I figured it wouldn't be worth the trouble. I have been searching the internet and there doesn't seem to be anything that strips paint and rust at the same time. I was hoping to use a bucket of something to dip parts in. I have found several muriatic acid articles about stripping rust but not paint. I guess there is no easy way to do it.
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Jul 9, 2006
#8
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #8
67 GTA said:
All of the big panels like the doors, hood, trunk etc. and the shell are going to be dipped. They will also be dipped in E-coat primer. I thought about having everything dipped, but it is an eight hour round trip there and back. There are hundreds of small parts to clean and I can,t get them primed and painted before they start rusting again. I have a cabinet blaster, but my puny compressor can't keep up, so I only use it for very small parts. I have used Aircraft stripper before with good results, but with the number of parts on one car, I figured it wouldn't be worth the trouble. I have been searching the internet and there doesn't seem to be anything that strips paint and rust at the same time. I was hoping to use a bucket of something to dip parts in. I have found several muriatic acid articles about stripping rust but not paint. I guess there is no easy way to do it.
Click to expand...

nope Those commercial places use industrial acids. Id look into a bigger compressor. I have a 60 gal one from Lowes and it keeps up just fine. Got the floor model and they were on sale. I believe I got it for $420 total
 
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