What all is involved in removing the brake booster (working on engine bay)?

its a biotch. especially if its a manual...lots of 'Kiss Me''Kiss Me''Kiss Me''Kiss Me' in the way.....although if you take of some of the plastic pieces on teh dash...you can get a 2 foot extension and kinda reach them that way,,but its still gonna suck man

good luck

Nick

Cammed90Notch said:

Well,
Simpy put, I recently painted my engine bay after sanding it down, but I didn't remove the brake booster. That along w/ a few other things, I'm basically not happy w/ what I did, so I'm going to go back and redo the engine bay.

So I was wondering, what all is involved in removing the brake booster and proportioning valve? Am I going to have to bleed the brakes after I do so and reinstall it, b/c I hate brake work

It's just like 4 bolts at the firewall (from under the dash, I think) and you remove it, what else?

Is this a complicated procedure or is it simple? This is my first time doing it, that's why I'm asking, thanks

Click to expand...

I asked the same question 3 yrs ago and never got a responce, so this is what I've learned.

I've found the easiest way to remove the Brake Booster is to use a 14mm deep socket w/ a swivel on a 1/4" drive w/ an 18" extension, it’s still a pain to do but the easiest way I've found, and I done my 3 times.
If you remove the Brake Booster the Master Cylinder will come with it unless you try to separate the two, and the only way to remove both Master Cylinder and Brake Booster is to separate the lines from the Master Cylinder where they attach to the Brake Control Valve (Proportioning valve) and then yes you will have to bleed the brakes because you've introduced air into the lines.

The booster is easy to remove. First remove the lower piece below the steering column(actually two of them,one plastic the other metal...also the wheel ring trim, 2 halves also). Then with a long extension and a deep well socket run it though the wiring which is almost a straight shot to the two top nuts(lay on your back, its uncomfortable but you can barely reach the top nuts to help slide the socket on)...have to go to the other side of the column to get the other nut. The two bottom nuts are even easier to get to. Then remove the clip holding the brake switch, slide off the white plastic washer, the switch, rod and black spacer. Thats all that hold the booster in place under the dash. Theres a nut behind the strut holding the prop valve on. Like mentioned above, you can remove the booster without undoing any brake lines by unbolting the master from the booster.