what can be done with $1500

[undercnstrction]

so i think i've finally made up my mind on what direction to go with the motor. i'm going to stick with the 302 for "ease" of getting this project done. my question is what can be done for say $1500. i have an explorer upper/lower but am seriously considering going to carb. i have a very good friend of mine that is a motor guru and help dial in a carb setup. i can sell off the intakes i have to offset the cost of the carb/intake setup if i end up going that route. if i want to keep my budget in the neighborhood of $1500, what if any upgrades can/should be done and keep within that range. i'll be doing all the work myself. can i go with a "stock" rebuild and upgrade the heads, cam, maybe roller rockers, etc and stay within my budget? i plan to reuse the pistons that are currently in the motor. i'll do a new set of rings, new bearings, etc.

i initially had a larger budget in mind for the motor portion of this project but i'm looking at getting into another project in the near future so i want to get this one rolling on a tighter to save a bit of change for the next one. as always, any input, ideas and advice are appreciated.

 

[hemi_fan]

On a budget like that I'd probably be looking at a Explorer/GT-40 head/intake combo. Carb is an interesting way to go and can make power but keep in mind that it could seriously hurt the resale value of your car.

 

[1987LXragtop]

If you check my sig I just went over from EFI to carb. conversion cost was a wash and actually have about 50 bucks left over from my ebay sales. Not sure how much resale you have to worry about and it appears that you are just starting this project so you probably are selling anytime soon so I dont know that I would let that sway me. 1500 is a decent budget but it depends on your goals. you wont run 10s for 1500 but if you look at MM&FF and what they did with a 4 barrel 5.0 Capri you might get some inspiration. Good luck keep us posted.

 

[undercnstrction]

definitely understand i won't be going 10's on a $1500 motor rebuild. I'm more interested in handling than 1/4 mile times and will be upping the ante in that department as well.

regarding the motor, my intention is to rebuild the current motor with new bearings, reuse the pistons, crank, connecting rods and install new o-rings and all new gaskets of course. this is all assuming of course that nothing is damaged. i don't suspect anything is broken since it was running just fine when i tore it apart. would i be able to throw on a set of roller rockers, an aftermarket cam, a set of 2nd hand heads (unknow brand, just something better than stock) along with a carb and intakes for my target of $1500? any recommendations on what heads to start looking for? what else could i throw on this motor and stay within budget?

forgot to metion i also intend to run a set of long tube headers.......

 

[Shaolin Crane]

hrmmmm, 1500 for a fox?
Subframes
Control arms
Shocks, struts
Panhard bar
Tire
brakes
If you want additional power, remove intake silencer, bump timing, reduce fuel pressure and underdrive pullies, do all that and you'll feel like you added 150hp

 

[undercnstrction]

shaolin, thanx for the advice.

the $1500 is for the motor only. the underdrive pullies is something i had forgotten about. the suspension items you mentioned are all on the short list of mods in that dept. i'm just trying to figure out the most bang for the buck on such a short motor budget. i'll be hitting you up for more advice when i get to the suspension and get the motor details ironed out.

 

[NIKwoaC]

reduce fuel pressure

Risky without a wideband A/F gauge. I agree with the rest, though.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Risky without a wideband A/F gauge. I agree with the rest, though.

Lol i didnt say to do it without it, i thought that goes without saying

 

[undercnstrction]

what does reducing fuel pressure do?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Now that i think about it, if you have to ask, forget about it, its safer that way

 

[undercnstrction]

come on shaolin, don't cop out on me that way. if it will free up horsepower i'd like to learn about it.

 

[Mintsick]

I'm struggling to understand why you'd ever want to swap to a carb personally. If $1500 is the absolute max I'd do GT40 heads/intake deal with a decent cam, full exhaust, proper tune. I'll tell you this, when I was in the market for a stang anytime I came across a car converted from EFI to Carb regardless of the condition of the rest of the car I moved right along to the next classified ad.

 

[NIKwoaC]

come on shaolin, don't cop out on me that way. if it will free up horsepower i'd like to learn about it.

I stock form, the car is designed to run a little on the rich side at WOT as a safety factor. Lowering the fuel pressure will "lean out" the A/F slightly, getting it closer to stoichiometric, and will sometimes produce a *little* more power. Personally, I don't really see it being worth it, because you're talking about running the engine leaner than it's design intent (can be dangerous) for maybe something like 5hp. That and, it's hard to tell what your gains are, if any, without the car sitting on a dyno and testing it at different fuel pressures & A/F ratios.

If the above was mostly greek to you, you need to put down the wrench and pick up a book.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

I stock form, the car is designed to run a little on the rich side at WOT as a safety factor. Lowering the fuel pressure will "lean out" the A/F slightly, getting it closer to stoichiometric, and will sometimes produce a *little* more power. Personally, I don't really see it being worth it, because you're talking about running the engine leaner than it's design intent (can be dangerous) for maybe something like 5hp. That and, it's hard to tell what your gains are, if any, without the car sitting on a dyno and testing it at different fuel pressures & A/F ratios.

If the above was mostly greek to you, you need to put down the wrench and pick up a book.

IIRC guys were getting 12rwhp out of it?

 

[undercnstrction]

I stock form, the car is designed to run a little on the rich side at WOT as a safety factor. Lowering the fuel pressure will "lean out" the A/F slightly, getting it closer to stoichiometric, and will sometimes produce a *little* more power. Personally, I don't really see it being worth it, because you're talking about running the engine leaner than it's design intent (can be dangerous) for maybe something like 5hp. That and, it's hard to tell what your gains are, if any, without the car sitting on a dyno and testing it at different fuel pressures & A/F ratios.

If the above was mostly greek to you, you need to put down the wrench and pick up a book.

first off, thanx for the explanation....

i did some research on it last night and understand why it's done now. i didn't get into different setups and how much can be gained by it but i don't believe that it's something that i want to do with this car. if i was setting it up more for more of a track car i'd be a bit more interested in getting ALL the HP out of it that i could. i'd be a little more willing to run it on the "edge" for lack of a better way to put it. this car will spend the vast majority of it's life as a street car and i don't believe it's necessary (although 12 hp at the wheels would be nice to have )

thanx again for the input.....

 

[undercnstrction]

I'm struggling to understand why you'd ever want to swap to a carb personally. If $1500 is the absolute max I'd do GT40 heads/intake deal with a decent cam, full exhaust, proper tune. I'll tell you this, when I was in the market for a stang anytime I came across a car converted from EFI to Carb regardless of the condition of the rest of the car I moved right along to the next classified ad.

it will simplify the setup and quite possibly add a few more ponies to the equation. because of where i live i won't really suffer any driveability issues either due to weather conditions. i won't have to worry about a computer re-tune, upsizing the injectors, larger throttle body, converting to mass air from speed density, etc.

 

[Mintsick]

it will simplify the setup and quite possibly add a few more ponies to the equation. because of where i live i won't really suffer any driveability issues either due to weather conditions. i won't have to worry about a computer re-tune, upsizing the injectors, larger throttle body, converting to mass air from speed density, etc.

I understand the simplicity factor for sure it just seems like a step backwards to me that's all. I mean realistically if you aren't planning anything wild you should be able to stay with EFI and make plenty of power for the purpose the car will serve.

 

[undercnstrction]

it's not set in stone that i'm going that direction yet, but that's the way i'm leaning. if i can stay within the dollar figure that i'm shooting for and gain a bit more power by switching over to carb than i'll do it. if it's going to put me over budget with no gains i'll stick with FI. I'm just trying to get the biggest bang for my buck.

 

[jrichker]

Keep the EFI and you will be better off in the long run. EFI can tell you what is wrong with the engine. A carb won't tell you squat.


$1500 budget - here's the answer...

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - 10.5" vented disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Uses the stock 4 bolt lug pattern. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it - about $25- $50 for the wire, fuse holder and fuse.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-95 AeroStar AWD or Electric 4 wheel drive. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.

bhuff30b’s input: However, no information was given for the 96-97 AWD aerostar driveshaft. I picked up one of these this weekend, for about 20$ from the local scrap yard. It already has the proper 27/28 spline yoke and needs no modification to install on a mustang. Also, the ends are securely welded on, as opposed to previous driveshafts which were pressed on. I'm not sure if the 92-95 driveshaft is pressed or welded though.

Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter.

*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1994-95 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1992-94 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-95 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1992-94 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1992-94 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.