What do i need to do to install headers?
- Thread starter 50mustangkid90
- Start date
Blown88GT
Founding Member
I just completed this "fun task" again after 13 years. It's a PIA, but not difficult. Do the driver's side first, you have to remove the dipstick tube and reinstall on one of the header bolts. You have to remove some of the emissions stuff on the passenger side. Use a good gasket and fasteners, so you don't have to do it again.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here was some penetrating oil. You'll want to literally SOAK THE HELL out of the bolts before attempting this with your factory headers. Do it several times over the course of a day before attempting it. You'll thank me when you don't break or round off the factory bolts, or bust open your knuckles when the rusty bolts eventually give way to torque.
- Apr 9, 2002
- 1,644
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My advise is that you throw away the header gaskets that come with the set and install some higher quality ones. Also buy some stage 8 locking bolts because 80% of the time the bolts will come loose and blow your gasket then you will have to start all over again with the install.
Good luck!
I bought some equal lenght shorties and the passenger side would not fit. From what i hear equal lengths dont usually slip right in. Usually have to modify one thing or another. I had to replace them with unequal length. So if your getting equal length keep that in mind. Using good gaskets is also a very good idea. If you dont use the stage 8 bolts i would make sure I retorque the bolts after a little while. They will back out on you and blow your gaskets. Exhaust leaks are very annoying to say the least.
Personally i like to take a header bolt to a hardware store and match it up with a high quality allen head bolt. Most typical bolts are damn near impossible to tighten with a typical wrench and most times you can't get a socket on the head because it's too close to the header and an open end wrench will strip the head off and then you're in trouble. With an allen head and the proper size key, you can crank them down as hard as you need to and if you have to retighten them it's not such a hard task.
Also, if you're only doing headers and not the mid pipe (h or x or whatever) you might want to investigate the flanges before you do anything. My first header swap was only the headers and i planned on doing the rest "later"....well i found that the header flanges were rotted almost gone and i ended up doing a full exhaust swap on ramps in my apartment parking lot...lol. It was a great learning experience though.
Also, if you're only doing headers and not the mid pipe (h or x or whatever) you might want to investigate the flanges before you do anything. My first header swap was only the headers and i planned on doing the rest "later"....well i found that the header flanges were rotted almost gone and i ended up doing a full exhaust swap on ramps in my apartment parking lot...lol. It was a great learning experience though.
Agree with the allen head suggestion and copper gasket. Right before dropping in my rebuilt engine, I removed the header bolts and switched to the allen heads. Its much easier to work with them in tight spaces. No disrespect to the locking bolt companies, but why pay $50 bucks a set when you can get 16 allen heads for under $10. I bought mine from Pioneer Fastner Supply in Leesburg Florida.
Oh i'd love to have locking bolts but i'm a cheap ass and even if i got them they're still a hex head bolt so i'd still be frustrated with them, plus you have to deal with unclipping them to get them back off. I've found that once you torque them down after a couple heat cycles they pretty much stay put.
CarFreakGT
20+ Year Stangneter 
Just to give you a heads-up, mustangkid: the back end of the right (passenger) side will be the hardest bolts to get to. On the left (driver) side, you may have to "hold your tongue right" to slide the header down around your steering shaft.
Also, a word to the wise: disconnect your battery during the install. When I did mine a few years ago, I took the battery out. It's easy to get distracted and accidentally set a tool in the wrong place. A friend of mine leaned over the fender and accidentally knocked a wrench onto the battery--scared the s**t out of himself when it sparked. Luckily, that was all that happened.
Good luck and +1 on patience being the most important part.
Also, a word to the wise: disconnect your battery during the install. When I did mine a few years ago, I took the battery out. It's easy to get distracted and accidentally set a tool in the wrong place. A friend of mine leaned over the fender and accidentally knocked a wrench onto the battery--scared the s**t out of himself when it sparked. Luckily, that was all that happened.
Good luck and +1 on patience being the most important part.
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