What do yall think of these heads....

T0rk3d · Dec 30, 2007

I am really looking into getting some heads. I dont really want to just stick some GT40 or GT40P heads on there.

I dont have the money to spend 1400 on AFR 185s and then rockers and pushrods. I did run across these though.

http://www.tristatecylinderhead.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41&products_id=43

They would be 700 for a set which is in my price range. They flow about what the AFR 185s do... according to this site. http://www.carbdford.com/tech/headflow.htm

So I guess im wondering if I should even waste my money on going with these. I know they are not aluminum so lots of people are going to say no right off. What im really getting at is that are these heads going to have a significant gain over regular gt40ps? No one seems to know about these heads so im kinda reluctant about dropping 700 on them.

earleys94gt · Dec 30, 2007

"2.02" or 2.05" Stainless Intake Valves"

These will not work on a stock bottom end. You will need to fly cut the pistons.

Is your car stock? What kind of mods do you have?

It seems to me, since they are close to AFR 185's, unless you have a good intake manifold and cam that these heads would be too big for a 302.

The GT-40/P's are done by a lot of people b/c you can get them pretty cheap and they will perform well on a 302; as they aren't too big, but bigger than E7's.

If I were you, I would look for something else. I got mine off E-bay, you may find some on there.

Good luck.

BlownFiveLiter · Dec 30, 2007

As was pointed out, you'd have piston to valve issues with those heads. You'd need a canted valve head like the TFS Twisted Wedge to run a 2.02" intake valve on a stock bottom end. All of the inline heads (AFR 165; Edelbrock 60289, 60329, 60379; etc.) use a 1.90 or 1.94 intake valve to have stock compatibility. You don't get a 2.02 until you step up to something like the AFR 185, or the Edelbrock 60279, 60299, 60359, or 60399 heads.

If you don't mind used parts, you can find used aluminum heads very close to your price range. The benefits of aluminum over iron aren't enough to make me sway my vote one way or the other though. Iron typically flows better, but you get better heat dissipation and lighter weight with aluminum.

T0rk3d · Dec 31, 2007

As of right now I have a 75mm TB 93 cobra intake full exhaust, CAI, 373s, subframes, lowered, aluminum driveshaft, short throw, underdrive pulleys.

I guess I didnt do enough research, I thought you could notch the stock pistons? I cant do any kind of rebuild right now. If I could I would just do a 331 and do heads later but I dont have a garage and I live in an apartment.

Im really lost on what to do. My goal for the car is low 13s or if I get lucky 12.999 haha. I just dont have the money for anything like AFRs. And I have seen quite a few people not even make 300 with the trickflows.

I mean I guess there is nothing wrong with putting the GT40 or GT40ps on in stock form it is just not exactly what I wanted. Im pretty lost haha. I am pretty iffy on buying used aluminum heads. All the deals I see look really fishy and the others are only 200 bucks cheaper than new. I am going crazy lol.

What kind of times should I be around with regular GT40P heads and my current mods? Im really wanting like a 13.1ish times. Thanks for the help guys.

MI95Cobra · Dec 31, 2007

well, if your patient enough you might fing a good deal on ebay....thats what i did.....

final5-0 · Dec 31, 2007

If you can be truly happy with using low 13's as a measurement of success

Focus more on driver skill
and
Lowering the sixty foot

P L E N T Y have gone low 13's on untouched E7's :Word:

Bottom line with my post here is ...........

Strip results are W A Y more dependent upon more than ..........
Just making additional power

Grady

Black95GTS · Dec 31, 2007

T0rk3d said:
As of right now I have a 75mm TB 93 cobra intake full exhaust, CAI, 373s, subframes, lowered, aluminum driveshaft, short throw, underdrive pulleys.

I guess I didnt do enough research, I thought you could notch the stock pistons? I cant do any kind of rebuild right now. If I could I would just do a 331 and do heads later but I dont have a garage and I live in an apartment.

Im really lost on what to do. My goal for the car is low 13s or if I get lucky 12.999 haha. I just dont have the money for anything like AFRs. And I have seen quite a few people not even make 300 with the trickflows.

I mean I guess there is nothing wrong with putting the GT40 or GT40ps on in stock form it is just not exactly what I wanted. Im pretty lost haha. I am pretty iffy on buying used aluminum heads. All the deals I see look really fishy and the others are only 200 bucks cheaper than new. I am going crazy lol.

What kind of times should I be around with regular GT40P heads and my current mods? Im really wanting like a 13.1ish times. Thanks for the help guys.

I ran mid 13s with what is in the sig and plenty of seat time. You definitely don't need to do an HCI to hit 13s. Its an expensive and time consuming hobby, like anything else that is worth doing.

You could bolt on a 125 shot of dry nitrous and get into the 13s with practice.

Adam

urban96 · Dec 31, 2007

good driver mod and a properly setup suspension will get the best gains in the 1/4

T0rk3d · Dec 31, 2007

Thanks guys. I know for a fact that I need more practice. Im a pretty good driver as it is, not at the track though I have only made 5 passes there. The thing is I dont make it to the track a ton so going 13.0-13.3 would be really important to me and still is, however just making the car faster on the street is a bigger deal at this time.

I drive it everywhere so making more power would put a smile on my face more. I hope that makes sense haha. I just am looking for a good budget head. If I got to the GT40 or GT40P heads will I be happy or disapointed. I dont want to spend 500 bucks and only get 15rwhp. Thats what Im getting at. I will be getting lower control arms soon though so that should help.

final5-0 · Dec 31, 2007

T0rk3d said:
Thanks guys. I know for a fact that I need more practice. Im a pretty good driver as it is, not at the track though I have only made 5 passes there. The thing is I dont make it to the track a ton so going 13.0-13.3 would be really important to me and still is, however just making the car faster on the street is a bigger deal at this time.

I drive it everywhere so making more power would put a smile on my face more. I hope that makes sense haha. I just am looking for a good budget head. If I got to the GT40 or GT40P heads will I be happy or disapointed. I dont want to spend 500 bucks and only get 15rwhp. Thats what Im getting at. I will be getting lower control arms soon though so that should help.

OK

More power will take more hot rod parts

If you can relate to rwhp and dyno results

Here are a few budget OEM iron head combo ideas others have done

Grady

T0rk3d · Dec 31, 2007

Wow thanks. That is really what I was needing to see. That GT40P, cobra intake, and e cam did pretty good.

Im thinking about selling my 93 cobra intake and TB to get a TF street intake, a crane 2031 and get some cheap GT40P heads. That should be close to that combo I would imagine? With the intake flowing more and the cam having more lift I should be close to 280-290? Or am I dreaming here? Thanks again for that.

What do yall think of these heads....

T0rk3d

New Member

earleys94gt

Active Member

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

T0rk3d

New Member

MI95Cobra

New Member

final5-0

Mustang Master

Black95GTS

Active Member

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

T0rk3d

New Member

final5-0

Mustang Master

T0rk3d

New Member

Similar threads

What do yall think of these heads....

New Member

Active Member

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

New Member

New Member

Mustang Master

Active Member

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

New Member

Mustang Master

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency