what headers? t5 conversion...

[65notch]

i did the t5 conversion on my 65 coupe 289 a while back and i used a cable clutch setup so im limited on what headers i can run...so currently i have the patriot tri y long tubes but im on my second set withen a year(cracking at welds). so im tired of problems with these headers and would like to change them up to something else. what other header options do i have?
thanks guys.
jj

 

[hsr]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=494678

 

[65notch]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=494678

i found that thread when i did a seach but it doesnt help me a whole lot. im looking for my info that what has been posted on there.
there was a post about using 73-93 long tubes in a 65 coupe? anybody know for sure if this will work.
i need all the info you guys can offer so i can order.
thanks

 

[stangman16]

all I can say is that my heddman L/T headers do not work well with the clutch cable, don't know what brand will - maybe hooker headers?

 

[Markus]

all I can say is that my heddman L/T headers do not work well with the clutch cable, don't know what brand will - maybe hooker headers?

Hello,

my Hooker long tubes don´t work with cable clutch in my 67. So i convert to a hydraulic system.

Markus

 

[latamud]

My headmans worked, they were like 10 years old. I had a set of flowtechs on for a little while that worked. My Tri-Ys on the Falcon, I got them to work with the cable but it was tricky. I routed the cable between the #7 and #8, and around the #8. I used a silicon boot I cut off an old set of MSD spark plug wires and wrapped the cable housing with nd insulated between the cable hounsing and the #8 tube. I broke the cable at the firewall once and replaced it, but didn't use the rubber boot. The new housing lasted all of about 10 miles. The next replacement, I reinstalled the silicon plug boot and have had zero problems.

 

[hsr]

i found that thread when i did a seach but it doesnt help me a whole lot. im looking for my info that what has been posted on there.
there was a post about using 73-93 long tubes in a 65 coupe? anybody know for sure if this will work.
i need all the info you guys can offer so i can order.
thanks

You must not have read my post in that thread. I have JBA mid length shorties. Part #1650 with a cable clutch and have no (cable) clearance issues at all.

It was discussed further here:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=649675

88drop lists a couple other shorty options. Your original post does not state long tube, so it was assumed that shorties were okay.

FWIW, Applejack on this forum has a '65 coupe with Patriot Tri Y's and a cable clutch T5. He doesn't have cable burn issues. I've seen his car in person. You did comment that you have other issues with the Patriots, but do they clear your cable also?

 

[Loup-garou]

Someone in a previous thread mentioned shielding the clutch cable with a length of that flexible corrugated metal wiring conduit that you can buy at Home Depot. Sounds like a good plan; I intend to try it with a set of Doug Thorley Tri-Ys.

 

[65notch]

You must not have read my post in that thread. I have JBA mid length shorties. Part #1650 with a cable clutch and have no (cable) clearance issues at all.

It was discussed further here:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=649675

88drop lists a couple other shorty options. Your original post does not state long tube, so it was assumed that shorties were okay.

FWIW, Applejack on this forum has a '65 coupe with Patriot Tri Y's and a cable clutch T5. He doesn't have cable burn issues. I've seen his car in person. You did comment that you have other issues with the Patriots, but do they clear your cable also?

i'm not really picky on either long tubes or shorties as either way im going to have to have my exhaust redone.

my patriot tri ys barely clear the clutch cable, i had to do some modifications to pull it closer to the oil pan, they deffintly dont allow a straight shot for the cable.

 

[hsr]

How is your cable routed? Mine runs down the back of the shock tower to the crossmember. It's really no where even close to the exhaust.

My cable is the Summit replacement for a FOX.

 

[scouttrooper]

We used HiPo cast iron... NO REGRETS!

Headers are like tiny little time-bombs just waiting to ruin your day with that "tic-tic-tic" we've all heard, be it cracks or distortion. This latest build, I opted for cast iron HiPo manifolds. They are substantial so they're going to wear like stock; I do not believe they run like stock. I went to the trouble of match-porting them (minimal grinding, so probably not all that useful) and had them ceramic coated so they'll stay "purdy" (also unnecessary). I used them on a 289 (302), with a Lakewood safety bell and a T-5z. It breathes quite nicely. Not sure I've lost a thing except the future headache of repairing/replacing them in a few years. I also used Modern Driveline's cable without issue. Flanges are close to the bell's massive bolt landing, but it all worked. Used 2.5" Magnaflow from flange back. It's all good. Pushes to 7K, so I don't think it's having trouble exhaling.

 

[65notch]

How is your cable routed? Mine runs down the back of the shock tower to the crossmember. It's really no where even close to the exhaust.

My cable is the Summit replacement for a FOX.

it rounted stright forward from the firewall and loops down right above the oil filter then straight back, except it has to be pulled twords the oil pan so that it doesnt touch the header tube.
i have the modern driveline cable clutch, which im not sure if its setup like a fox?

 

[SoCalCruising]

Ford Powertrain Applications has heads for cable clutch.
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers1.htm
I understand from other Stangers that they fit very nice. Not cheap though. I have Doug's Tri-Ys and had to have one tube moved. I don't recommend them for cable clutch, although they work fine after mods.