• Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

What is this piece?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 96Forged281
  • Start date Start date Sep 19, 2008
9

96Forged281

New Member
Dec 10, 2002
137
0
0
Sep 19, 2008
#1
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #1
I ordered a o/r x pipe and Im not quite sure what this piece is for. In the 1st pic its that round piece below the rings and next to the pipe

View attachment 303357
View attachment 303358
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 19, 2008
#2
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #2
That cone slips into the drivers side of the midpipe where it meets the exhaust manifold. That is the method of sealing on the drivers side as opposed to an exhaust gasket.
 
9

96Forged281

New Member
Dec 10, 2002
137
0
0
Sep 19, 2008
#3
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #3
BurningRubber said:
That cone slips into the drivers side of the midpipe where it meets the exhaust manifold. That is the method of sealing on the drivers side as opposed to an exhaust gasket.
Click to expand...

sorry for the stupid question, but which way does it go? Or can it only slip on one way?

Anyone got a pic of what it should look like when on?

Im installing tomorrow
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 19, 2008
#4
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #4
96Forged281 said:
sorry for the stupid question, but which way does it go? Or can it only slip on one way?

Anyone got a pic of what it should look like when on?

Im installing tomorrow
Click to expand...


No problem.

There is only 1 way for it to go on.

On the drivers side of the X pipe, where the X pipe meets the exhaust manifold, that cup slips in the end of the X pipe before you install it. Thats it. It just drops down in there.
 
9

96Forged281

New Member
Dec 10, 2002
137
0
0
Sep 19, 2008
#5
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #5
BurningRubber said:
No problem.

There is only 1 way for it to go on.

On the drivers side of the X pipe, where the X pipe meets the exhaust manifold, that cup slips in the end of the X pipe before you install it. Thats it. It just drops down in there.
Click to expand...

You got a link that shows installation? I know its pretty easy I just hear Ill need a swivel and a LONG extension. I want to see what Im dealing with and the car isnt outside at the moment
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 19, 2008
#6
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #6
96Forged281 said:
You got a link that shows installation? I know its pretty easy I just hear Ill need a swivel and a LONG extension. I want to see what Im dealing with and the car isnt outside at the moment
Click to expand...

I don't have one saved, but i'll look and see if I can find one. I'll post it up if I do.

I installed my X pipe and can give you these tips.


You need a floor jack and at least two jack stands. Ramps are nice, but not needed.

I forget what size socket you need, but you will also need some extensions and a swivel joint.

You will probaly need something that can act as a breaker bar. A peice of pipe that slips over the ratchet will work, just so you can get leverage.

If the bolts are really nasty, soak them in PB Blaster or an equivilent lubricant.

You will need to disconnect the o2 sensors before removing the pipe. If you have an o2 sensor wrench, or a small enough wrench period, you can just remove the upper o2's and not fight with disconnecting them from their harnesses (its a TIGHT fit to reach them). Its easiest to just transfer the rears after the stock midpipe is removed.

Its a good idea to have an extra set of jackstands to hold the catback in place so it doesnt hang/droop down. Its one less thing to fight with.

Drop in the cone on the drivers side. Just a reminder, lol.

Make sure when you are installing the new X pipe, you get it as level as you can under the car. You can also use the floor jack to raise it up into the correct position before you tighten everything down.

Replace the gasket on the passengers side where the exhaust manifold meets the X pipe. It will be VERY VERY VERY frustrating to finish the job, and start the car only to hear a massive exhaust leak because the gasket broke. It happened to me.


Have fun, it is aggrivating working in tight spaces. If you have acess to a lift it is literally a 15-20 min job. On the ground it will take a little longer as reaching, lifting, positioning, and tightening at the same time is tiring, lol.
 
9

96Forged281

New Member
Dec 10, 2002
137
0
0
Sep 19, 2008
#7
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #7
Really on 20min? Maybe Ill pay a shop 1/2hr labor to bolt it on for me then

If not thanks for the advice it'll come in handy. Especially that part about the front O2 sensors, I read about them being a PITA to disconnect, wouldnt have even thought about unscrewing them and not disconnecting

Where do I get the gasket at? autozone or kragens?

Cause it didnt come with one
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 19, 2008
#8
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #8
96Forged281 said:
Really on 20min? Maybe Ill pay a shop 1/2hr labor to bolt it on for me then

If not thanks for the advice it'll come in handy. Especially that part about the front O2 sensors, I read about them being a PITA to disconnect, wouldnt have even thought about unscrewing them and not disconnecting

Where do I get the gasket at? autozone or kragens?

Cause it didnt come with one
Click to expand...

Well, probaly not 20 mins. for the first time, lol. But after you see what's what its not a bad job. I would definatly do it myself again.

No problem for the advice. Its nothing major, but a few small points that will save a few mins here and there. I literally couldnt fit my hand in a position to get ahold of the front o2's and get enough pulling force to disconnect them from the harness. It is definatly easier to unscrew them from the stock midpipe and leave them on the car.

I got my gasket from Advance Auto. I'm sure Autozone has them too, but mine had to be ordered. We don't have a Kragens around here though, but they could probaly get them also.

They are cheap, as in $10 from the dealer cheap if you run out of options. Its called the exhaust manifold flange gasket.
 

forum155pl

New Member
Jul 11, 2006
520
0
0
the 509
Sep 19, 2008
#9
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #9
it will be a 2hr job for the first time.. lets be realaistic..
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 19, 2008
#10
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #10
forum155pl said:
it will be a 2hr job for the first time.. lets be realaistic..
Click to expand...

Definatly. I was just saying that if he had a lift and could stand under the car instead of working on his back, it would go alot faster... 20mins is realistic for that once you have done the job once or twice before, but definatly not the first time.

I think it took me 3-4 hours, but I got my hair stuck in the creeper and got pissed off, took a break... I wouldn't expect it to take less.

Long hair FTL when working on a car. Its gone now though...
 
9

96Forged281

New Member
Dec 10, 2002
137
0
0
Sep 19, 2008
#11
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #11
Ive installed lift kits, cams and L/T headers

This wont take me long unless something doesnt bolt up right
 

forum155pl

New Member
Jul 11, 2006
520
0
0
the 509
Sep 19, 2008
#12
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #12
its not the bolting.. its the UNbolting.. once you get it off.. its a piece of cake to put on.. breaker bars and PB blaster is your buddy, buddy..
 

evil281

New Member
Jan 6, 2008
276
0
0
Arizona
Sep 20, 2008
#13
  • Sep 20, 2008
  • #13
i didnt have a problem unbolting the xpipe on my car nor my friends, install took about an hour first time round maybe slightly faster on his car since it was second time
 

BOOMSHAKALAKA

New Member
May 13, 2008
31
0
0
Sep 20, 2008
#14
  • Sep 20, 2008
  • #14
evil281 said:
i didnt have a problem unbolting the xpipe on my car nor my friends, install took about an hour first time round maybe slightly faster on his car since it was second time
Click to expand...

forgetting about the little header rod thingy? lol

but yeah seriously the hardest part is not burning yourself.
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 20, 2008
#15
  • Sep 20, 2008
  • #15
BOOMSHAKALAKA said:
forgetting about the little header rod thingy? lol

but yeah seriously the hardest part is not burning yourself.
Click to expand...


Thats why you do it after it sits overnight, lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1
Engine Motor swap from a 2003 Explorer
  • 1996mustang new
  • Oct 9, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
616
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Oct 16, 2025
squeak93
K
Resolved Weird sound coming from a freshly rebuilt 5.0L
  • karhoot
  • Jun 24, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
212
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jun 27, 2026
Mac131
O
My rebirth, Hi from PA
  • onemore1987
  • Jun 28, 2026
  • The Welcome Wagon
Replies
3
Views
135
The Welcome Wagon Jun 29, 2026
onemore1987
O
Parking brake cable
  • 78 Mach1
  • Apr 21, 2025
  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech
Replies
4
Views
376
1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech Apr 30, 2025
78 Mach1
identifying smog/fuel part on 1998 GT
  • dochawk
  • Jun 18, 2026
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
9
Views
186
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Jun 30, 2026
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?