So no big deal?Secondary Air Injection stuff for the smog pump.
The thin black hose connects to I think the throttle body. It connects to the smog pump so yeahWhere is it coming from?
There is nothing there for it to plug into.
Is it your IAT sensor lead?
Looks too short to make it there, but other than the MAF, that is all that is in this area.
If it is from behind the strut tower, there is a small device back there with a vacuum tee from the top, and wires plugged into the bottom.. but I think that has a small square connection, not round.
Oh no, I should've moved that more out of the way. I unplugged that myselfYou are referring to the electrical connector that's dangling, correct. That should be the connector to the AIT sensor. When you removed the air intake tube was the AIT sensor not there or was it just unplugged. The sensor will be threaded into the air tube that's why you don't see the other end for the connector.
That's what it looked like to me....You are referring to the electrical connector that's dangling, correct. That should be the connector to the AIT sensor. When you removed the air intake tube was the AIT sensor not there or was it just unplugged. The sensor will be threaded into the air tube that's why you don't see the other end for the connector.
Thank you sir!The Air Divertor Valve, pumps outside air into the exhaust manifold to help with emissions.
If the system is not functioning correctly, it could throw a Check Engine Light.
This, guys. I was talking about this!
The tube on the left side of it was unhooked. I saw it when I took out my intake
This was in response to my question about these codes months and months ago, codes were 311 and 314As to your codes, those both have to do with the emissions system. Leading from the driver's fender near the air filter, you should find 4 colored plastic hoses. Two lead to emissions parts under the intake hose; the other two lead under the intake and hook to the EGR valve and the intake. Basically, these parts work off of engine vacuum - if they are cracked, the system won't work right. It's also common to switch the hoses between the EGR and the intake, since they're right next to each other. The green one goes to the EGR, the red goes to the intake.
So yeah, it is an EGR code, originally I thought it was the EGR, so I pulled another one off my old engine, cleaned it out with carb cleaner and it was the same result with the codes coming on occasionally at the high speeds.Have you pulled codes yet?
Did you see an AIR code?
If you pull codes, look for an EGR code - it would fit the times your CEL is coming on.
Yeah, probably shoulda took the picture when it was unhooked and the connector movedLMAO!
That's the way to show us!
I was confused because the only thing unhooked the pic was the electrical connector!
Sorry for any mix up it caused your thread, but I really didn't see anything else unhooked.
And where has Chythar gone? I haven't seen a post by him in a long time! Maybe I just miss them
I don't know yet, I need about an hour of day light to finish my fan PWN install before it's drivable. But lets hopeDid reconnecting the hose get rid of your check engine light?
I still need to grab a center console w/cup holders. But yeah I was just wondering if you fell off the planet since your last thread about the tablet in dash install.Who, me? I mostly lurk these days, though I do chime in now & then. I haven't done anything new on my 'Stangs lately, so I don't have anything cool to post either. I did pick up a 2002 center console recently, I'm waiting for the weather to warm up so I can paint the console to match my interior.
Yeah that's what it seems. I'll let you guys know after I take it for its first drive in months in a few days.The vacuum control module that controls both the EGR and those air valves is all interconnected. That is possibly why it through an EGR code.
Kurt
Could be unrelated since I never generated the 81, 84, or 44 94 codes. So I guess it's functioning some whatThe TAB/TAD vac lines get brittle. That can definitely generate an AIR code.
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