Friedchicken said:You should be putting down corrected 370 rwhp stock and then 400-405 after those mods.
flyonthewall said:Do Baseline Stock first then you can really tell what the mods do for your engine. I would mod one at a time to tell how much you gain from each one. Which Dyno you chose stay with that one and operator to stay consistent. Dynos Mustang and DynoJet. Most prefer DynoJet. Different parts of the country get you different numbers. I would not be concerned with what number you pull (should pull three times at least) except the Air to Fuel mix. Just remember you are just setting a Baseline for your mods and it is only one moment in time on that given day. Best of luck.
Uncle Meat said:What the HELL is that linked CRAP in your message man!? At first I thought it was something you were doing.... but then I did some looking around and it seems it's happening to many people all over the board! Certain key words throughout different posts are hyperlinked to commercial websites. Is this Stangnets new revenue gimmick?
U.M.
flyonthewall said:Not me, I just typed the words, I thought it was strange. WTF
Let's see engine, motor, horsepower, transmission, rearend, mustang,etc.
Uncle Meat said:... Is this Stangnets new revenue gimmick?...
Vic_Ferrari said:Look soon in Mustang enthusiast Magazine.
My 03 is literally broken down mod by mod, run by run.
I starter with 360 RWHP and 333 TQ
K&N added another 20 HP and 15-18 ft lbs.
K&N with Superchips _Rs file made 400 HP at the tire
K&N with catback and 2.8" upper pulley and Superchips HP-4 program made over 430 HP at the tire
Same modifications with superchps custom tune made 462 HP and 488 FT Lbs AT THE TIRE.
It's a demon of a daily driver...... =o)
We're doing kook longtubes and h-pipe this week with another tune....shooting for 500HP at the tire with an equal amount of torque.
We may add a 2 LB lower pulley and a new heat exchange to break the 500 mark =o)
Make sure ALL runs are done is threes for each mod.
Also make sure the car is driven at LEAST several miles on the dyno after tuning or parts changes to allow adaptive learn.
If the 1st run in each three is higher than the other two, THROW IT OUT and average the other two.
It is utterly important that the percieved IAT on the dyno is ACCURATE and CONSISTENT with all runs.
I can "make" 30 H by running the car with colder oil temp or moving the IAT probe on the dyno to a "cozy" warm location......this will caust the SAE correction to "pretend" you have more HP.....
People do it all the time and this is why most dyno shops don't have a clue...
Then comes the dynojet factor.....they usually read high.
After using this Superflow dyno I'm spoiled by it's accuracy....I don't like using a dynojet unless it's all thats available.
Vic
terrydf said:Bone stock engine results: 366RWH/367RWT. (Dynojet, SAE). Magnaflow catback and K&N CAI going on tomorrow morning
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