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What sealer for this intake gasket? (Pic.)

  • Thread starter Thread starter ozanracing
  • Start date Start date Jun 8, 2007

ozanracing

New Member
Nov 28, 2006
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Jun 8, 2007
#1
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #1
This is a fel pro 1262, without the sealer around the ports/water jackets.
Should I apply a bead of RTV OR GASKET SEALER arount the water ports? I'm not too worried about the intake ports though.

THANKS
p.s. got the heads back and they look great!


 

troyGT03

New Member
Feb 22, 2004
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too close to memphis,tn
Jun 8, 2007
#2
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #2
i worked in a race engine shop for years. the way i was told was to use a very small amount of silicone around the water jackets. just enough to make the gasket hold to the head. i mean next to nothing.
 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists
Jul 11, 2003
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Jun 8, 2007
#3
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #3
Why don't you spend the extra few bucks for the gaskets that have the silicone beads already on them? I have always used them and haven't had a leak yet.
 

vikingpower

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Dec 6, 2004
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CWU Ellensburg, WA
Jun 9, 2007
#4
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #4
yes, put a small amount of Ultra Black around the water jackets
 

fox racer

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Staten Island, NYC
Jun 9, 2007
#5
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #5
I hate the ultra black, I much rather use the orange high temp/ high pressure silicon. My opinion aside, you can smear a little around the jackets for peace of mind.
 

jtfairlane

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Jun 9, 2007
#6
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #6
I've installed a ton of intakes on carbureted and fuel injected ford motors, from both Edelbrock and Weiand, and every time the instructions call for using a small amount of Permatex blue RTV around the water jackets but only on the INTAKE side of the gasket and not the head side...
 

jrichker

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Jun 9, 2007
#7
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #7
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all
the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip
adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface
that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets
tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the
same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it
together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the
injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together. Take the other advice you got
here and run with it.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost
is about $2.74 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being
resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or
http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any
excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.
 

jtfairlane

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Jun 9, 2007
#8
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #8
Another great thing to use is Edelbrock Gasgacinch. It comes in a small metal container with a foam applicator attached to the cap. The stuff resembles a thin yellow-ish goo, and you brush it on both sides of your gaskets.

It's kind of an all-in-one. It helps keep the gasket in place, it helps seal the gasket to the head/intake surfaces, and my favorite part: it keeps the gaskets from tearing when you remove the intake in the future so you can remove the old gaskets in one peace, which save you from all the gasket scraping and surface prep for the new gaskets.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
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0
Miami, Ok
Jun 9, 2007
#9
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #9
my 1250 felpros had blue lines around each port. i guess they help sealing better.

i didnt use any around the water jackets at all. i just a bit where the gasket meets the end seals and thats all. and i have no leaks.
 

ozanracing

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Nov 28, 2006
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Jun 9, 2007
#10
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #10
795.0pacecar said:
Why don't you spend the extra few bucks for the gaskets that have the silicone beads already on them? I have always used them and haven't had a leak yet.
Click to expand...

These are the only ones with correct port size...
Thanks for the tips guys.
 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists
Jul 11, 2003
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Senoia, GA
Jun 9, 2007
#11
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #11
I have felpro 1262s with the permatex already on them.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-1262

Look at the picture, that is exactly how mine look.
 

ozanracing

New Member
Nov 28, 2006
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Jun 9, 2007
#12
  • Jun 9, 2007
  • #12
These are FPP-1262R
read the port dimentions, you will see the "R" gaskets are larger, with the absence of permatex................


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-1262r

Image is a representation of this part. Actual part may vary. and it sure does!


look at my picture in the first post.....
 
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