What should my engine temp and oil pressure be?

Watter Wetter works better with straight water than with coolant, and I have never seen anything close to a 30 degree drop. More like 5-10 degrees, less when run with coolant. In climates where coolant is necessary, it's benefits are minimal.

I have always heard "recoring" as being a core replacement, and rodding the radiator as cleaning the core. YMMV....

Max Power said:

Watter Wetter works better with straight water than with coolant, and I have never seen anything close to a 30 degree drop. More like 5-10 degrees, less when run with coolant. In climates where coolant is necessary, it's benefits are minimal.

I have always heard "recoring" as being a core replacement, and rodding the radiator as cleaning the core. YMMV....

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I would say I saw a max of a 5 degree drop... maybe even a tad less. I also am using a dex coolant as well.

Recoring is having the top and bottom tanks soldered to a new core.The tanks and core are brass, not copper. Rodding is where they remove on or the other tank and run a rod thru the cores to remove the crud build up. Sometimes it's cheaper to recore, sometimes it cheaper to buy a new radiator. Shop around.

THE SHROUD WILL DO NO GOOD FOR YOUR PROBLEM

THE FAN WILL DO NO GOOD FOR YOUR PROBLEM

THE FAN CLUTCH WILL DO NO GOOD FOR YOUR PROBLEM

RADIATOR,
RADIATOR,
RADIATOR

good luck.

19stang66 said:

I drove it tonight a couple of 15 min trips and it never reached above 200.

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I'd like to hear your opinion of how a new shroud and clutch dropped your temperatures at high speeds from 220 to under 200?

hope this works. finding the real problem instead of shotgunning parts is the way to go. was it no/poor airflow that pointed you to the clutch? the shroud does help. a 10 -20 drop from the shroud wouldn't be unreasonable.

I know Grego already said some of this, but here's my understanding of the cooling system. A fan will only pull air through the radiator at speeds under roughly 30mph. Flex fans have blades that straighten out when the rpms get higher so you don't have the drag on the engine when the fan is not needed (i.e. highway speeds). If you are overheating in stop and go traffic or at slow speeds then it is a problem with your fan, lack of shroud, or hot air recirculating through the radiator from the engine compartment. If you are overheating on the highway then your radiator does not have enough surface area, is plugged, partially blocked fins, blockage in the motor, collapsing lower radiator hose, or faulty waterpump.

I'm running a 351w (larger motor) with a larger cross flow radiator (19x28), electric fan, hi-flow Flow Kooler water pump, and a high flow 180° thermostat and my engine never gets above 190° even in stop and go traffic on 100°+ days. Your's should stay around 190° with the proper cooling system.

On a few other side notes. You mention that you bought a new waterpump from NAPA. Are you sure it wasn't a reverse flow type waterpump? I highly doubt it but something to consider. You mentioned that you removed the cap and ran the motor but coolant gushed out everywhere. It shouldn't gush out everywhere unless it was overfilled or your waterpump is pushing in the wrong direction. Have you flushed the entire cooling system or just had the radiator rodded out? The engine could be partially corroded and plugged and could be needing a flush. Hope this helps a little bit.

Oh and Grego, a fan shroud will help cool at higher speeds only because it prevents hot air from recirculating back through the radiator from the engine compartment. I agree with all of your other comments and suggestions though