What size fuel line

67GTA-FB429 · Sep 15, 2005

mdjay said:
.....

The other problem I ran into is if I have less than a 1/4 tank, the car pulls so hard that it moves the gas out of the way of the pick-up. Then I vapor lock!

So don't let the top half dry out.

mustangracer · Sep 15, 2005

67GTA-FB429 said:
So how would you increase the size of the line at the tank?

'67 up fuel senders are 3/8 feed line, and repro '65-'66 senders are also, only the original or concours '65-'66 senders still have the 5/16" feed. So unless you are upping to 1/2", the '67 is already ok, and just switching the sender is the easy way to upgrade the feed.

HistoricMustang · Sep 16, 2005

steel1212 said:
Why couldn't he just run it where the old line went? I plan on doing the same thing this winter. Do I need it...probably not but like jay said...why starve?

With a drive shaft failure there is a possibility to cut the fuel line and the brake line. Big fire and no way to stop - not a good idea.

Mine is braided and actually runs inside the car (along with the brake line) but it is not your average "daily driver".

Consided using braided no matter where it is placed. Nothing worse than a fire after all the hard work!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

67GTA-FB429 · Sep 16, 2005

HistoricMustang said:
.....

Mine is braided and actually runs inside the car (along with the brake line) but it is not your average "daily driver".

....

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

INSIDE THE CAR!?!

Most would say that you are crazy, but in a way it makes sense. It is the most protected area of the vehicle. But if you did rupture one or have a cockpit fire....

So where did you run them Historic? Tranny hump, door sill...??

HistoricMustang · Sep 16, 2005

67GTA-FB429 said:
INSIDE THE CAR!?!

Most would say that you are crazy, but in a way it makes sense. It is the most protected area of the vehicle. But if you did rupture one or have a cockpit fire....

So where did you run them Historic? Tranny hump, door sill...??

Bingo!

Remember, they are braided and mine run along the door sill. They also have a few extra inches of "play" in case of side impact. Actually look kinda cool!

If they rupture I will not have to worry about it!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

www.historicmustang.com/pearsonhenrywaveby.html

67GTA-FB429 · Sep 16, 2005

picture, please.

10secgoal · Sep 16, 2005

MDJAY..I ran 10an in to the pump with 8an out for that very reason.
What kind of pump are you running ? Alot of pumps peter out when the fuel pressure is upped. And don't flow as much as they do at 5 psi.

HistoricMustang · Sep 17, 2005

10secgoal said:
MDJAY..I ran 10an in to the pump with 8an out for that very reason.
What kind of pump are you running ? Alot of pumps peter out when the fuel pressure is upped. And don't flow as much as they do at 5 psi.

I have run a Carter Mechanical Pump for years with no starvation problems, even with full throttle for several minutes at a time.

Very cheap insurance to make sure you get enough gas!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

ozstang65 · Sep 17, 2005

I dug up This site a while ago and it seems to have some good info. Very good explanation about the different types of regulators also.

Personally, I'll be running 3/8" supply and return line and a 5/16" breather (tank to carbon cannister)

For holding it onto the car I found a late model Falcon's fuel line clamps works really well. It's only made for 5/16" but the rubber's pretty flexible. Nutserts through the floor use the standard 6mm bolts from the clamps. The closest part to the ground is where it goes over the rear seat footwell. I'll be adding a guard over this. The rest of the line is higher than other underhanging components.

ttoney · Sep 17, 2005

Guy's,

I just replaced my lines with the 68' line because it is supposedly a safer route. It looks a lot better now, not an inch or less) from the header. (351c Hooker swaps)

The line jumps to the outside of the frame rail near the back wheel. Made me feel better anyhow.

mdjay · Sep 17, 2005

10secgoal said:
MDJAY..I ran 10an in to the pump with 8an out for that very reason.
What kind of pump are you running ? Alot of pumps peter out when the fuel pressure is upped. And don't flow as much as they do at 5 psi.

The mechanical Carter one provided with the Paxton Kit. It has a boost reference to open it up 9-14 lbs. The boost reference works but I still think this thing is demanding more fuel volume.

Historic, I know you have a stout car, but I'm just babying this thing with 5#'s of boost and it puts down almost 460 to the ground. It wants more boost and more fuel. Of course the fuel is coming first.

67GTA-FB429 · Sep 18, 2005

ozstang65 said:
I dug up This site a while ago and it seems to have some good info. Very good explanation about the different types of regulators also.

Personally, I'll be running 3/8" supply and return line and a 5/16" breather (tank to carbon cannister)

For holding it onto the car I found a late model Falcon's fuel line clamps works really well. It's only made for 5/16" but the rubber's pretty flexible. Nutserts through the floor use the standard 6mm bolts from the clamps. The closest part to the ground is where it goes over the rear seat footwell. I'll be adding a guard over this. The rest of the line is higher than other underhanging components.

Good stuff, Oz. Where did you insert your return line? I was thinking that the filler neck might be a good option. Did you bend the lines yourself?

ozstang65 · Sep 18, 2005

Yes, as you can probably tell by the roughness it was hand formed (with the aid of a dodgy bender). I'm fabbing an aluminium tank so return/pickups will be built into it. I'm hoping to eventually go with fuel injection so i'm building a surge tank within the main tank. The return line will feed back into the surge tank.

10secgoal · Sep 18, 2005

mdjay said:
The mechanical Carter one provided with the Paxton Kit. It has a boost reference to open it up 9-14 lbs. The boost reference works but I still think this thing is demanding more fuel volume.

Historic, I know you have a stout car, but I'm just babying this thing with 5#'s of boost and it puts down almost 460 to the ground. It wants more boost and more fuel. Of course the fuel is coming first.

Pump was proly ment for a stock motor and the S/C.

mdjay · Sep 19, 2005

10secgoal said:
Pump was proly ment for a stock motor and the S/C.

You're probably right! I ran into a little hitch when I was mapping out the way I was going to run the #8. At the pump, it looks like I adapted the line from a #6 pipe thread to a #8 flared, so I will have to drill and tap the pump if I'm going to use it. I'm going to give Paxton a call and see if they have a better solution.

SoCalCruising · Sep 19, 2005

Line size depends on usage. If you are making short bursts of power (1/4 mile runs, stop light to stoplight stuff), then the line doesn't have to be all that big 'cause you also have the bowls to feed from. Where it gets tougher is if you are open tracking and need to keep the bowls from emptying on long straights at WOT, or near.

If I remember correctly, a 3/8" line will be fine up to about 400-450 hp of road course type action using a low pressure system (i.e., carb'd mech pump). A high pressure system with regulator (pump at/near the tank) will handle much more.

What size fuel line

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