what some typical 347 and 331 EFI dyno #'s

N

need a fast car

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Dec 10, 2004

#1

• Dec 10, 2004

• #1

I've searched and didn't really find what I was looking for. trying to talk my self out of a turbo kit. please direct me to some posts if there is any. Post up

 

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RIXX93GT

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Dec 10, 2004

#2

• Dec 10, 2004

• #2

347 n/a untuned stock chip, running rich @ 11 a/f ratio, and emissions legal net results 319 rwhp and 359 torque
It will be around 355-365 when I get the tune and chip.

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

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Jan 15, 2002

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Dec 10, 2004

#3

• Dec 10, 2004

• #3

It all depends on the rest of the combo. Pump or race gas? Street/Strip/Race car?

 

EMW150

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May 22, 2000

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Dec 11, 2004

#4

• Dec 11, 2004

• #4

Mine's not EFI but it could be matched pretty close with the proper EFI setup. I had a timing issue the last time I had it dyno'd which I fixed since then and picked up about 11/2-2 mph in the 1/4. It was losing about 3 degrees of timing up above 5K rpms. With the increased trap speed I'm guessing it's probably closer to 440 plus or minus.

 

BlackDrop50

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Dec 11, 2004

#5

• Dec 11, 2004

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It does depend on the combo, shortblock, and whether it's supposed to be smog legal or not.


Mine makes 390rwhp, but it needs more air/fuel and a dynotune. Looking for about 420rwhp when I'm done by spring.

 

Legendary

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City of Angels

Jan 1, 2005

#6

• Jan 1, 2005

• #6

BlackDrop50 said:

It does depend on the combo, shortblock, and whether it's supposed to be smog legal or not.


Mine makes 390rwhp, but it needs more air/fuel and a dynotune. Looking for about 420rwhp when I'm done by spring.

Click to expand...

Mine posting the rest of your set-up?

 

BlackDrop50

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Jan 1, 2005

#7

• Jan 1, 2005

• #7

eagle crank, ross racing pistons, lunati rods, 76mm MAF, 70mm TB, 1.6 rockers, 30lb injectors 10.7:1 compression

BBK 1 3/4 longtubes to 2.5" x pipe and catback

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#8

• Jan 1, 2005

• #8

Over 400rwhp with in 6500 rpm is very easy but lots of guys are afraid of "big" parts to get there and end up with poor power for 3.25 and 3.40 stroke cars. MY recipie for over 400rwhp and high 10's was gonna be 11:1 342, TFS Hi ports or ported TW heads, 1 3/4" longtubes, 90mm TB, TFS R intake, jay allen cam and typical fuel mods like 42's, 255 pump and an 80mm maf.

And for a stock block comboi your wasting money using forged steel crank's and your also loosing soem power since their heavier.

 

N8Miller

I need NOS....make it 2 of the big ones

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Jan 1, 2005

#9

• Jan 1, 2005

• #9

I dont have any dyno numbers, but from those HP calculators, i should be in the 330-340 range.
when i switch to vic jr heads, put on my 80mm MAF, already have a 75mm TB and do an E-fan, i should be in the 375-380 range.

oh, and dont listen to Grn92lx, hes just one of those "street racing punks" that only care about high HP ratings

 

R

RIXX93GT

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Jan 1, 2005

#10

• Jan 1, 2005

• #10

EMW150 said:

Mine's not EFI but it could be matched pretty close with the proper EFI setup. I had a timing issue the last time I had it dyno'd which I fixed since then and picked up about 11/2-2 mph in the 1/4. It was losing about 3 degrees of timing up above 5K rpms. With the increased trap speed I'm guessing it's probably closer to 440 plus or minus.

Click to expand...

What did you do for your timing issue? I was having an issue during my dyno pulls where I wasnt getting as much advance as I should have under w.o.t.

 

Auto Reverse

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Jul 22, 2003

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Jan 1, 2005

#11

• Jan 1, 2005

• #11

Here's my junk!

 

EMW150

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May 22, 2000

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Roaring Spring,PA

Jan 3, 2005

#12

• Jan 3, 2005

• #12

RIXX93GT said:

What did you do for your timing issue? I was having an issue during my dyno pulls where I wasnt getting as much advance as I should have under w.o.t.

Click to expand...

I locked out the timing and bought a starter saver which takes out 20 degrees of timing below 800 rpms so it'll start easier. That didn't cure it, it was still losing timing up high. I figure it was either the timing chain giving or the distributor drive on the cam is showing some wear. It was a new chain and gears last year but it was the Crane billet setup which I wasn't real impressed with. Anyway, it still did it, so I set the timing at 5500 to 36 degrees which was about 39 degrees at 4500 but at the high rpms it was right at 36. My car really doesn't see under 5500 on the track under full load anyway so I wasn't really concerned about detonation. Saw big gains in power right away but never got to run the car in decent air this season to see it's full potential. I have the engine out for the year and I'm going to put another chain and gear set in it and see if that fixes it.