what supporting mods would i need sc content

Certainly some goodies.

At the very least a FMU. I highly suggest getting bigger injectors which also requires a MAF. Some people disagree and say the FMU is fine, but if you ever want to run something more (H/C/I, for example), you'll need the injectors and MAF anyway.

You'll need the vortech bracket and the misc bolts, nuts and spacers required to physically mount the unit to the car.

A larger fuel pump is a good idea and a AFPR while not necessary, also a good idea. An intake for the s/c unit and if you're installing it yourself a few specialty tools to get the job done.

I think buying a kit is the best way to go. Superchargersonline (where I got my entire package from, s/c included) has an install kit that costs $1,800 and has "everything you need minus the Vortech supercharger and the electronics. **NOTE: Will come with FMU and Larger Fuel Pump. Boost Retard Box is not included."

So, for $2,600 you could have all the parts to install on your car. If you need a MAF/injectors you're looking around adding up to $500-600 (depending new or used stuff), and a tune/chip, which could be $400 to upwards of $1,000 (depending on professional tune or tweecer).

I'm sure you were hoping for much less but in reality this is the stuff you need to make it work and make sure your Stang handles the boost.

As far as additional goodies just for more fun, a AFM power pipe usually adds 2 psi to whatever pulley you're using. It's a 4" cold air intake for the s/c and allow the regular 8# pulley to generate around 10# of boost. You will want to look into a pcv valve that goes to a factory boosted vehicle. I found one at my local autozone that only required me to cut an inch or so off of the hosing and it fits the factory grommet and no longer receive blow by.

Assuming it comes with all the brackets and pullies and belt. You would need a 255 intank pump an adjustable regulator and atleast 24 lb injectors and mass air along with some Autolite 23 plugs.

The V2 is a decent unit. I'm assuming it's an S-trim? The only real difference between the V1 and the V2 is the noise of the supercharger. The V1 (like I have) makes a whine around idle, whereas the V2 (sq-trim) is more of the sleeper model.

You can upgrade to a hp 255 pump without any consequence if your plans include boost in the future. If you aren't going to boost you could use a regular 255.

That website I listed earlier has the full package for $2,800 or so, which I think is only $200 more for a brand new supercharger which, depending on the use of that used charger, is probably a good deal.

Unfortunately a lot of horsepower usually doesn't come very cheap.

autumn_again said:

holy crap. i figured it would be expensive, but not that expensive. i dont have that kinda money right now.

and yeah, i was hoping for cheaper, but i don't want cheaper if its not going to work as well. i'd rather spend the extra money to get something that i wont have to replace later down the line for something better

Click to expand...

I assure you ..... You ain't the first to think along those lines

I been in this hobby for a long time :Word:
and
I've never seen a way to make big power cheap

I would tell you I really don't like running mega high fuel pressures that go
along with the FMU method

With tiny 19's ... it really gets up there

If you could find some OEM inj's like 24's or 30's from a junk yard for a
attractive price ... Well ... then you could run a disk in the FMU to match
them and the pressure would not be nearly as high.

Yes ... even with the FMU .......
it would be best to go to a 255lph in tank pump

You most likely would peg your OEM meter
so that would require an upgrade

You most likely would encounter spark blow out
so that would require an aftermarket ignition

There is more to be sure ... but ... you get the idea

If you wanna Play ... You gotta pay

O Yeah! ... About wanting to hear the whine and your budget

Go to the junkyard and find an alternator with bad bearing

You won't ... Be Fast ... but you'll ... Sound Fast

Grady

I think I just pissed myself dude those homies are killing me, then they take off and almost crash their jitny................priceless

Seeing how you are new to the site and all

I don't wanna just tell you we've done this topic many times before
so
Just search up the details

but

We really have and we have given V E R Y specific details all about it

A link for you to a helpful past thread shortly

Just as having a blower is only the tip of the iceberg

Having a pair of heads ... a cam ... and an intake ..........
Well ... that also is only the minimum ... or ... Your only getting started

There is absolutely no way to get to BIG power with our 94-95
Stangs without compromise of some kind and I ain't just talking $$$

More Power ... BIG Power ... causes weakness to show up in ............
Unibody
Suspension
Drive train
Cooling system
OEM pcm programming
etc etc etc

Now lets talk money
Lets look at a few options many have done

If a tight budget is in place ............

1) You look at the OEM NA route of GT40 stuff for 260rwhp give or take

You want more ... so ............
2) You look at the aftermarket NA route for 300rwhp give or take

I'd not call #1 or #2 ... a BIG power option really
but
#1 is where most start :Word:

Thing here is ... if you do #1 first ............
Is the additional money spent to get the power of #2 worth it

Only you can answer that

Now here is where I believe ... It gets silly

Remember ... We're talking about reasonable money and a street car

Many have done #2 ... and then ... Go to a blower

That puts you over the limit of block splitting power
for an OEM block

I say to stay within reason
Look for around 400rwhp give or take

A) Do up an all motor 347
or
B) Do up a bolt on blown or turbo combo

Last thing here is ...
A or B won't be a viable option for one who only has his Stang for a dd

So ............. "Know what I mean Vern?"

You just can't escape those dad gum compromises

Here is the link to that old thread

Hope it helps you to see ..... A bit of reality

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=702728

Grady

I have a V2 and its quiet however you can hear it and the whistle (although nothing like the muffler shop stuff) is audible as well. I have had the V1 and loved the sound of it as well. I do think you could find a better deal, probably more money but also a complete kit.

you can hear the whistle on a V2. it makes lots of power with the right parts.

I also have some used 42# injectors for 1/2 price. see sigggy.