What The Maf??!

Well I've heard many bad things about C&L MAF sensors. Just a thought.

The A9L has no flash memory like more modern car computers. Therefore the stock tune cannot be altered without adding additional hardware to the computer's J3 service port. The prom that contains the computer's program is soldered in place and would not be easy to remove and replace with something different.

I don't see how the car is actually running rich, yet the sensors read lean.
If the sensors are good, they will read whatever is there, not what a PCM or MAF wants them to read.
So, IF the sensors are good, and the sensors say it's lean, then it's lean.
If the car is running rich, the sensors would read rich.

Now, how the PCM interprets that info is a different story, but I am just trying to make sense of what you are saying...
"Car is rich, but sensors read lean..."

My bet would be a problem with the MAF, since a good sensor is a good sensor...

What makes you think it is too lean?

No cats= stink... No way around it..get a real afr gauge..light show gauge is just that, a light show..for 200$ you can get an innovate motorsports unit..what is your current gauge currently connected to? Hopefully not your o2 sensor.

Fuel injector sizing & injector photos

Revised 11-Dec-2011 to add larger injector sizes to injector table

Injector HP ratings: divide flow rating by.5 and multiply the result by the number of injectors. This uses a 100% duty cycle. These ratings are for naturally aspirated engines at the flywheel.

Example:
19/.5 = 38, 38 x 8 = 304 HP
24/.5 = 48, 48 x 8 = 384 HP
30/.5 = 60, 60 x 8 = 480 HP
36/.5 = 72, 72 x 8 = 576 HP
42/.5 = 84, 84 x 8 = 672 HP

The preferred duty cycle is about 85% maximum, so for a safety factor multiply the final figure times .85.

19/.5 = 38, 38 x 8 = 304 HP x .85 = 258 HP
24/.5 = 48, 48 x 8 = 384 HP x .85 = 326 HP
30/.5 = 60, 60 x 8 = 480 HP x .85 = 408 HP
36/.5 = 72, 72 x 8 = 576 HP x .85 = 490 HP
42/.5 = 84, 84 x 8 = 672 HP x .85 = 571 HP

Remember that the above ratings are at 39 PSI. Increasing the pressure will effectively increase the flow rating. Example: a 19 lb injector will flow 24 lbs at 63 PSI, and a 24 lb injector will flow 30 lbs at 63 PSI.

See http://users.erols.com/srweiss/ to get the calculators used in these examples.

Here's the duty cycle explanation. Duty cycle is how much of the time the intake is open the injectors are turned on. The 85% figure means that for 85% of the time the intake valve is open, the injectors are spraying. The idea is that you want some percentage of the duty cycle left over so that you have some room to grow the process.

If you are at 100% and you need more fuel, all you can do is turn up the fuel pressure. That means the whole fuel curve from idle to WOT is affected. Maybe you are already too rich at idle, and turning up the fuel pressure makes it worse. If you had some injector duty cycle left to play with, a custom tune could use that where it is needed. That would not over richen the whole range from idle to WOT.

If you did turn up the fuel pressure, you might be able to change the injector duty cycle to get the air/fuel mixture ratio you want since the injectors will have extra fuel delivery capability.

With larger than stock injectors or higher that stock fuel pressure, you will need an aftermarket MAF that matches the injector size. The MAF “lies” to the computer to get a fuel delivery schedule that meets the engine’s needs and isn’t too rich or too lean. The best strategy is an aftermarket MAF and a custom tune to insure the best air/fuel ratio over all the RPM range.

Don't forget to increase the fuel pump size when you increase injector size or significantly increase the fuel pressure



Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

a91what said:

Well that would be correct the line is soldered into the output for the o2 on the driver side... per the manufacturers instruction.. will that cause some kind of issue??
Second issue beating around under the hood the injectors have a common part number on the body 01d126b but on the neck two of the injectors have 3257 and the other six have 3307 i tried crossing the number to no avail... called summit too they say they are not theirs... they came in a FRPP box but that dont mean they are...... any suggestions? They all look the same

Click to expand...

it won't cause an issue but it's not doing a thing for you.
o2 sensors are narrowband.. You need to have a wideband setup to be more accurate.. That gauge is basically just for show. On a real wideband kit you have another sensor that gets put in the exhaust, and gives you a number not a blinking light. Only two ways I know of to figure out what you have going on. Buy a wideband kit or put it on a dyno with the sniffer they put in your exhaust.

a91what said:

Thanks for all the info guys.. i think i will be investing in a 80mm pro m maf seems like the best bang for the buck and my tuner (if i ever get there) will appeciate it. What fuel pump should i be running with my current setup?

Click to expand...

Copied from the FORD RACING PERFORMANCE PARTS catalog:

PROPERLY SIZING FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS

Fuel Pumps
The following information is presented assuming the above information has been taken into consideration regarding BSFC, fuel pressure and specific gravity of the fuel being used. Most fuel pumps for electronic fuel injection are rated for flow at 12 volts @ 40 PSI. Most vehicle charging systems operate anywhere from 13.2v to 14.4v. The more voltage you feed a pump, the faster it spins which, obviously, will put out more fuel. Rating a fuel pump at 12 volts then, should offer a fairly conservative fuel flow rating allowing you to safely determine the pump’s ability to supply an adequate amount of fuel for a particular application.

As previously mentioned, engines actually require a certain WEIGHT of fuel, NOT a certain VOLUME of fuel per horsepower. This can offer a bit of confusion since most fuel pumps are rated by volume, and not by weight. To determine the proper fuel pump required, a few mathematical conversions will need to be performed using the following information. There are 3.785 liters in 1 US Gallon. 1 gallon of gasoline (.72 specific gravity @ 65° F) weighs 6.009 LBS.

To be certain that the fuel pump is not run to its very limit, which could potentially be dangerous to the engine, multiply the final output of the fuel pump by 0.9 to determine the capacity of the fuel pump at 90% output. This should offer plenty of ‘cushion’ as to the overall “horsepower capacity” of the fuel pump.

To determine the overall capacity of a fuel pump rated in liters, use the additional following conversions:
(Liters per Hour) / 3.785 = Gallons
Multiply by 6.009 = LBS/HR
Multiply by 0.9 = Capacity at 90%
Divide by BSFC = Horsepower Capacity
So for a 110 LPH fuel pump:
110 / 3.785 = 29.06 Gallons
29.06 x 6.009 = 174.62 LBS/HR
174.62 x 0.9 = 157 LBS/HR @ 90% Capacity
157 / 0.5 = 314 HP safe naturally aspirated “Horsepower Capacity”

Safe “Horsepower Capacity” @ 40 PSI with 12 Volts
60 Liter Pump = 95 LB/HR X .9 = 86 LB/HR, Safe for 170 naturally aspirated Horsepower
88 Liter Pump = 140 LB/HR X .9 = 126 LB/HR, Safe for 250 naturally aspirated Horsepower
110 Liter Pump = 175 LB/HR X .9 = 157 LB/HR, Safe for 315 naturally aspirated Horsepower
155 Liter Pump = 246 LB/HR X .9 = 221 LB/HR, Safe for 440 naturally aspirated Horsepower
190 Liter Pump = 302 LB/HR X .9 = 271 LB/HR, Safe for 540 naturally aspirated Horsepower
255 Liter Pump = 405 LB/HR X .9 = 364 LB/HR, Safe for 700 naturally aspirated Horsepower

Note: For forced induction engines, the above power levels will be reduced because as the pressure required by the pump increases, the flow decreases. In order to do proper fuel pump sizing, a fuel pump map is required, which shows flow rate versus delivery pressure.

That is, a 255 liter per hour pump at 40 PSI may only supply 200 liters per hour at 58 PSI (40 PSI plus 18 lbs of boost). Additionally, if you use a fuel line that is not large enough, this can result in decreased fuel volume due to the pressure drop across the fuel feed line: 255 LPH at the pump may only result in 225 LPH at the fuel rail.


My Comments:

A lot of people oversize the fuel pump by buying a 255LPH pump thinking that the fuel pump regulator will just pass the excess gas back to the tank. It does, but… Did you ever consider that circulating the fuel around as a 255 LPH pump does will cause the gas to pickup engine heat? What happens to hot gasoline? It boils off! With most of the 5.0 Mustangs having the carbon canister removed or disabled, the car stinks like gas, and the gas mileage drops since the hot fuel evaporates away into the air.

Its the BBK cold air messing with the C&L. Put a stock airbox and intake tube on with the C&L and see if it is better. IF you put a cone filter on a C&L it will lean it out about 1 full injector size, and if the CAI is on it with out a SAMPLE tube made for the CAI...it will not work.

Are you running stock heads? If so, 19 lb injectors should be fine. I have gt40x alum heads, b303 cam, 302 bottom end, running 24 lb. Get the 19 lb calibration tube from C&L, run the stock air box and it should be fine. I have a 76mm C&L with stock air box and K&N Filter, it works fine. That's true about using anything other than the stock air box with C&L on a Fox Mustang. I talked to the the owner of the company. He said that they couldn't get any gains from a conical filter and actually lost performance with a conical. The C&L meter is designed to be used with the stock air box. I put a conical on once at the track and went from 13 seconds to 14. I know other MAF set ups are better, but the sensors and tube are approx. $230.00. The C&L uses the stock Ford sensor. Just found one used for $25.00. My C&L came with the car so budget wise , that's what I use

go with 30 lb then

The first thing I would do is get rid of the Chinese fuel injectors. Those injectors are Wofoto brand from China. Who knows what they're doing.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/255761111/Injection_Nozzle_01D126B_Nozzle.html

A lot of people talk badly about the C&L meter housing. It's just a housing folks, you use the stock sensor in it. 99.9% of the time, if there is a problem with a C&L meter housing, there is something else wrong. There was just a guy over at the Corral that was having a problem with his C&L meter. Everybody told him to ditch the junky meter and get a real one. It turned out that the problem was with the junky hose he was using to connect the meter to the throttle body. It was pinching down when tightened, and closing the air off to the sample tube. He replaced the hose with a better one and now the car runs like it's supposed to.