I am also in the process of doing the same thing. If you cut a hole in the drivers side apron you can fit the fuse box and wiring through and mount it in the inner fender. I found a site called MustangAddiction.com. he shows some ways of cleaning up the egine bay and smoothing everything out under the hood. there are some good pics there I reccommend you check it out first.
Also I heard you have to extend the passanger head light wiring after you relocte the wiring to the fender. As for the wiring that is on top of the rad apparently can go underneath the rad.
I have also seen guys use windshield washer hose with a slit down the middle to go around the sharp edges of the holes you cut in you apron
The ccrm can be moved to the inner fender aswell
If I think of anything else I will let you know.
I am also in the process of doing the same thing. If you cut a hole in the drivers side apron you can fit the fuse box and wiring through and mount it in the inner fender. I found a site called MustangAddiction.com. he shows some ways of cleaning up the egine bay and smoothing everything out under the hood. there are some good pics there I reccommend you check it out first.
Also I heard you have to extend the passanger head light wiring after you relocte the wiring to the fender. As for the wiring that is on top of the rad apparently can go underneath the rad.
I have also seen guys use windshield washer hose with a slit down the middle to go around the sharp edges of the holes you cut in you apron
The ccrm can be moved to the inner fender aswell
If I think of anything else I will let you know.
I have limited knowledge about the heating and AC systems so can anyone tell me if I can either bypass or remove the heater core and still be able to use the AC? It doesn't get cold enough here to use the heater but I definitely need the AC from April to October.
I'd like to remove some weight and clean up the engine bay by removing the heater lines.
Surely someone knows the answer. I'd like to remove the hard heater pipes from the intake manifold and remove the heater core altogether because it's never cold enough here for me to use the heater. I do need the AC to be working though in our blazing hot summers so can I remove the heater core/pipes and still have a functioning AC?
Why is it off topic? I want to clean up my engine bay so my question is related. I've already removed the smog pump assembly with piping, plugged the holes at the back of the heads, and removed the EGR. I'd like to remove the heater pipes next but not if I won't be able to use the AC.
Since I've already removed the smog pump, I'm thinking about replacing the big, heavy stock alternator mounting bracket with Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9455 - Trans-Dapt Performance Steel Alternator Brackets - summitracing.com
My cruise control hasn't worked since I bought the car and since I never use it anyway, the cruise control module and cable to TB will go.
Dude, you scare me.
If I had to do that much math to make a part for my car, I'd drive an Accord. At least I think that's math... If it's any help at all, your "6's" are backwards.
Thanks Jon. That was the answer that I was looking for and I think the ECT elbow kit from Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing is what I need.
Thanks Jon. That was the answer that I was looking for and I think the ECT elbow kit from Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing is what I need.
As for the AC being at its coldest, I don't think I'll mind that when it's over 115*F outside in mid-summer.
how much wight does removing the AC Save? The Condenser, Canister and the AC Pump?
Im taking mine out as well for the weight factor. It does not get hot enough up here long enough to really need it
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