what will fit on the 351 from 302

not sure exactly but if it helps at all i know i uses 351 heads on my 302 just had to get new pushrods, but if im not mistaken the block is the same as a 302 just a different crank?

If you have the roller block like me the only thing different is the lower intake and pan. (Block is taller and wider) Canton makes a nice Pan to fit over the stock k member and Trickflow has 3 different options for intake. Heads that are made to fit a 302 will have to have the head bolt holes redrilled to fit bigger bolts (1/2" i believe). Distributor is different. Just get the one with the right connector from a ford truck. And longer headers. Your factory brackets will bolt right up. You will just need a longer Belt. Lowering motor mounts (Solid) and possibly a cowl hood.

If its a older block (pre 1995) i believe you need to have the right type of gear on the distributor to run roller cam. Then you have to get linked lifters and a small base circle cam.

Getting a 95-97 block is easier but not as strong as the 1st 3 production years of the 351W.

I have done this swap in a FOX car and a 95 sn95 Mustang. On the fox (Lincoln Mark VII) i kept everything even the smog and a/c. Its easier than what people will make it out to be.

~Chris

Got motor mounts on ebay....steel ones like $30-40 for the set steel. I think blue oval has a set on there. 302 and 351's ude the same mounts. Carb is cool....Just remember its not gonna be so fun to start in the winter if its any kind of daily driver. Also the mileage sucks. But the intake parts can be a little cheaper. with a 408 get the biggest lower intake you can find and a 850 carb. Remember its a small block ford but technically not a small block displacement. You want the big intake and a good sized carb. Im not sure what those heads you have flow ...but the bigger the better. Accufab has some nice mid length and full length headers. Mid if you stay EFI (for accurate 02 sensor reading). Also don't get the 5 liter swap pan....get the 7 liter Canton. 1 quart low on a 5.0 isnt so bad....but if you're a quart low on a 5 quart pan with a 408 its more serious. Use a high volume oil pump...not high pressure. Order the rear oil pickup for the canton pan. Valve covers will fit no problem. If you have the stock cast valve covers and stud rockers you only need to cut out the oil baffle to make them work. But aftermarket call ones will look nice.

Not sure what your rotating assembly balance is. Just make sure if its 28 oz that you have a 28 .oz Flywheel and harmonic balancer. Stock 302 is 50 .oz so you cant use that. Either way its best to have a machine shop balance the rotating assembly with the balancer and flywheel you plan on using.

If you already have EFI and end up with a late model block....then staying EFI would be easier....seeing as the late model 351 and 302 have the same firing order (injectors included)

Sounds good. Yeah if you are replacing pistons etc. the whole assembly should be balanced and checked.....mite as well have the fly wheel and balancer to make sure. Do you know how big of a cam you will be running??? I personally think my cam is too mild. I wanted streetable but 222-232 @ .050 and .548/ 574 is a bit tame for my 383. I was thinking of somewhere closer to .600 lift. I run a 9.1 compression ratio. My idle is loud and strong but not as lopey as ive been used to.

I know you were asking questions. But it sounds like you have some guys around that really know their stuff. I just know what fits and how to install it. But as far as Cams and engine theory im sure i could learn more.

Im having computer issues.... ill take a pic of the dyno sheet. But the car made 500lbs tq @2000 RPM and then fell fast. and 265hp @ 4000rpm. Im using a 95 computer....pain in the butt. Im going to try a Tweecer or Moates QH. if that doesnt work ill be joining the carb guys. I would just hate to carb it. EFI is sweet if i can get it running right. The car actually made more power when i manually cranked the fuel pressure higher than normal. So its def. the computer. My injectors are good enough to make 500hp easily. and im running a 90mm maf/tb and all the supporting goodies. This motor made a ton of power when running in my other car with an older mustang computer. Then i was shifting over 6000rpm easily.

silver1983gt5.0 said:

not sure exactly but if it helps at all i know i uses 351 heads on my 302 just had to get new pushrods, but if im not mistaken the block is the same as a 302 just a different crank?

Click to expand...

You need to NEVER open your mouth on this subject again.

A 302 block is definitely not the same as a 351w block

No more advice from you



If you're putting stock 302 heads on a 351w, then you're pissing in the wind.
You won't gain crap by running a 351w with 302 heads...
302 heads suck that bad.


Here is some more info on the swap...
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Well the heads i have were 210cc heads (more than enough for my 383). but the bolt hole size was to fit a 302....So i had the machine shop drill the bolt holes larger to accept the larger 351 head bolts.