Instead of the battery, couldn't you wire it to the power distribution box (hot) and find a good ground elsewhere beneath the hood or near the fender? I'm saying this given what I can remember of the 1st generation SN95 engine bay. My 2004 had a distribution box right near the battery on the driver's side.
right now i have the switched 12V connected inside the cabin on one of the wires coming out of that fuse box. was wanting to clean things up a bit and keep it all under the hood if possible, but not 100% needed
On my Dc Controller, I used the 12 volt feed to the low coolant light. It's the same sort of circuit as yours (I think). On my controller, anytime the circuit is hot, the controller will work. So there's no real draw, but just monitoring going on. If I moved my wire to the battery, my controller would work at all times.
Anyhow, if that isnt copacetic, the easy way to do it is just as Mr Tim described. You could use a fuse in the underhood box that's also switched (something like the 25 amp ignition/audio fuse looks promising). Here's your underhood fusebox BTW.
Another alternative: CCRM Pin 13 should be key and crank only hot (check with your meter).
Good luck bud.
And please either update the thread or PM me with how you like the controller. I keep a mental tab of what works for whom and such feedback tailors my hearsay posts about other controllers.
ive been using the spal unit since august of last year and its been great. super easy to use and it taps right into the stock temp sensor, no need to add another.
since i installed it it neverwent over the set high temp(190)
ive been using the spal unit since august of last year and its been great. super easy to use and it taps right into the stock temp sensor, no need to add another.
since i installed it it neverwent over the set high temp(190)