Nope. I just know that it hurt my '95. So I had to go back to an H pipe. It was blown, though .... if that makes a difference. Power was there, but you could tell it was down a bit.
Ahh, well if anything is true, you can definitely tell if you are down on power more easily with the power adder. I mean, if you put on a more restrictive muffler for example, you don't need a dyno or track time to tell you it lost some juice. Thanks for the response.
"Sometimes i think my car is great and then i read on here that even if i do spend some extra money..... it will still be slow..... very depressing!"
I guess this depends on what your definition of fast or fun driving is.. This is how I felt...I mean even with a H/C/I the 302 only took me so far. With my definition of fast I would have to go way past that because it seems that every new family sedan out there is approaching 300+ HP.
It USED to be that fixing up an older car strictly for performance was the way to go because cars were made with crap HP. Then in the late 90's early 2000, that all changed. If you have an older car now, you are spending $$$ just to keep pace with todays regular production cars!!
The new infinite is putting out 335HP from the factory, tons of 4 door sedans are putting out close to 300 HP. And the muscle cars? Forget them unless you have a h/c/i and blower or HUGE engine in your car because you have LS1 where they can get up to 400rwhp na, chrylser with its 425HP magnum and new challenger, diesels running 12's..etc... I am not trying to be negative but it is just a fact. Factory, out cars are putting out 100HP less than most n/a V6's. TQ is a different story.
The moral is: if you are going to mod for power, then you better go for it big time if you want to be considered fast these days. Plan on spending a lot of money because the blocks won't safely hold the power. You will need to go dart block or something 306, H/C/I AND blower to be fast and fun driveable OR at LEAST 331/347 N/a or BIG block.
I have all your requirements listed. Bolt ons, stock engine and cam. Plus it's a turd AODE that starts out like a full second slower than a 5 speed car. My car ran consistant 15.9s when I bought it.
My times are all with my stock shortblock, stock cam engine. This spring was the first time I had it on the dyno since doing all the work, and it ran 265hp, 300tq. Launching it hard and banging gears got me the times in my sig. Practice is your best friend, good luck!
Bullit - solid advice except for the off-road pipe, guys all my mods HAVE to be CARB legal it's a california car and I'm not going to do anything shady to get it smogged
I know theres some to be gained in the 60 ft but the MPH is just low period, it takes at least 97 to be solidly in the 13s.
I also want it to be in street trim, no cheating by removing weight or bypassing pulleys
So we know the intake is worth something, is there much if anything to be gained to switch from stock headers to aftermarket CARB legal ones?
gcom - 14.0s with a stock motor? Tell us more
stpprorolla - I see you ran 96, what's your combo?
13.4
107.3 mph
60 foot 2.313
street toyo proxies that need to be replaced.
and I am sad to admit a .930 reaction time. what can i say i was nervous and caught off gaurd. car is so fun though.
i do want a different block so i can put more to the ground
For me to get into the 13's and achieve 97+mph I had to add the following:
-ASP Pulleys
-bumped timing
-offroad X pipe
-mufflers in stock cat back
-3.73 gears
-edelbrock performer intake
-65mm tb
-shorty headers
With these mods I went 14.3 at 97.2mph on normal street tires. I then added nitto drag radials and a homemade CAI and I went 13.83 at 98.55mph in my heavy convertible.
My cousin went 14.2 at 97.2mph with only the following in his 94GT 5 speed coupe:
-3.55 gears
-ASP pulleys
-offroad X pipe
-Bassani cat back
-bumped timing