What's up with my compression!?!?!?!?!!

Ok, so I can hear my rockers. I freak out for a minute and then calm down. I take it to a local shop and the guy tells me that it's my oil pressure. Gives me a 20min speech about how the cam bearings and rings all crap must be worn out and I NEED to rebuild my engine. I freaked out at first and went home. I called up a couple of other friends and one told me to remove the VC and start the car to see if oil was traveling up to the rockers. I only did it on the passenger side, and it looked fine. So today, I take it to another shop for a compression test and I get this C1=75, C4=85, C5=75, and C6=75:eek: I wasn't sure what it was supposed to be at but I knew those numbers were bad. The guy also checked my oil pressure and I was at 50lbs at idle. WTF could cause these compression numbers. My plugs were free of oil, my car isn't smoking, I have no power loss, and I'm clueless how my compression could be this low.:notnice: Any advice?
 
OK, here are my thoughts:

I am not sure how much an ecam affects the compression, but I know cams typically can give lower values.

What did the other 4 cylinders test at?

Is this the stock bottom end? How many miles?
 
I am not sure how much an ecam affects the compression, but I know cams typically can give lower values.

They can? How? The valve still closes, compression shouldn't change...right?


As to the original post...

You need to check your compression yourself. **** what the shop says. Buy a haynes manual for $15, buy a compression gauge for $30, and do the test.

If those numbers are accurate, your motor IS toast.

Test all the cylinders. The lowest test cylinder should be 75% of the best cylinder.

Generally, I'm under the impression that anything over 120 is "okay". Stock 5.0s tend to test between 145-155 from what I recall..I believe that my own car's lowest cylinder was 135 when I last tested it a few months back.

Good luck.
 
Actual compression only starts once the valves are both closed. If the intake valve stays open too long to better fill the cylinder then you have less gass to compress and therefore lower numbers.

Now it is also possible that the gagge itself was horrible and hence the need to know what the other 4 cylinders were. How was this tested? Was the engine turned by hand (single compression stroke) or allowed to spin on the starter until the pressure maxed on the gage (multiple strokes)? Remember the gauge adds to the overall volume of the cylinder by a very high %.
 
Actual compression only starts once the valves are both closed. If the intake valve stays open too long to better fill the cylinder then you have less gass to compress and therefore lower numbers.

I've never heard this before...for all I know you could very well be right, but this just doesn't make sense to me.

Unless one of the valves is open when the piston begins in compression stroke, the compression reading should not change whatsoever. Is it common for an aftermarket cam profile to keep the intake valve open as the piston begins the compression stroke?

Otherwise, wouldn't the valve staying open HELP in compression as the intake stroke draws more air into the cylinder?
 
94-302-vert said:
OK, here are my thoughts:

I am not sure how much an ecam affects the compression, but I know cams typically can give lower values.

What did the other 4 cylinders test at?

Is this the stock bottom end? How many miles?

Very good point :nice:

Duration can bleed off some squeeze :eek:

Like you ... don't know if that is an issue with the e cam :shrug:

Those values do look low.

Maybe the valves are too tight :shrug:

Shims/different length pr's ... gotta love the peds :)

Grady
 
95snoozer said:
if your rockers are a lil too tight, they could be opening the valves enough to bleed compression off

That could be the reason why this is happening. I mean, it's weird that my compression is so low when my car feels strong and is not smoking or burning or leaking oil. I may be leaving power on the table, but it still doesn't feel "slow".