whats wrong with my drivetrain?

Sorry to hear about your misfortune plus the vandalism Anyway, I've never heard a bad word spoken about SPEC clutches. I've had both Centerforce dual friction and SPEC, and had no problems with either of them myself, but like I said, I've never heard ANYONE bitch about a SPEC clutch.
As far as the cable goes, TTT. I would like to hear about the toughest clutch cable currently in production myself. Good luck bro.

OonDeanisS said:

where in CT do you live?

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Oakdale. I'm about an hour up I95 from you. Don't know Danbury at all, but I know where it is. Oh, ditto on the SPEC clutch. You can't lose with them. Stage I holds 400HP at the rear wheels with ease, and has a great pedal feel. While you're in there, don't forget to check the flywheel, it should always be re-surfaced when you get a new clutch/change the disc material. They are so cheap, it's easier to just get a new one then take the time and money to have it reground and maybe have them do a crappy job. While you have the flywheel off, you may as well do the rear main seal because they are only a few bucks and if it isn't leaking yet, it will. Oh, get a good look at the pivot ball for your clutch fork while it's apart, if it has any grooves or anything it should be replaced. Not common, but for ten bucks it's worth it to have it on hand just in case. Have I spent enough of your money yet?

NKau- the best one I know of right now is a stock style sold by maximum Motorsports. Any OEM (*Motorcraft*) cable is good in a street car that doesn't get hammered obsessively.

Don't know for sure, I got a billet SPEC but some guys on here claim to get new ones for around $50 I think. When I said it is cheaper and easier to get a new one, I was quoting someone else in a post I can't seem to find now. I'll keep looking...