wheel bearing installation.

bottlfed92

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#1

• Aug 16, 2007

• #1

Probably an easy answer to this....

I've recently purchased a pair of zinc coated slotted and cross drilled rotors. They didn't come with ewheel bearings.

Question: Do I have to get a shop to do this bearing installation? Or is it that easy just to do myself?

Thanks,

~Jeff

 

Flavadave4

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Nov 28, 2003

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Utica, NY

Aug 16, 2007

#2

• Aug 16, 2007

• #2

Super easy, unbolt wheels, calipers and pull your rotors and start pulling everything off, keep it in order, put the new stuff in the same way it slid off the spindles. Make sure you get new seals and use plenty of wheel bearing grease when you pack them. You know how to pack them? Just put a glob of grease in your left hand and hold the bearing in your right, hold the bearing out and slap it down onto your palm full of grease.

Keep it clean and lubed!

 

Flavadave4

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#3

• Aug 16, 2007

• #3

I should mention to keep slapping that bearing in your hand till its LOADED with grease, you cannot have too much.

No need to over tighten the main nut either, thats why it has a cotter pin.

 

bottlfed92

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#4

• Aug 16, 2007

• #4

LOL....Thanks Davey.

 

Flavadave4

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#5

• Aug 16, 2007

• #5

I guess I owed you one after omitting you from my list

 

bottlfed92

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#6

• Aug 16, 2007

• #6

haha....Not a biggy, there.

 

ninety15.0

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#7

• Aug 16, 2007

• #7

Actually what was said about the castle nut is not true. after you pack and install the wheel bearings you have to torque the castle nut to a specified value. This will seat the wheel bearings. Then you have to back the castle nut off and then just screw it on lightly. Check the secondary torque spec but i remember it being in inch pounds. Then install the cotter pin and make sure everything spins freely. If you do not seat the wheel bearings properly by torquing that castle nut you could run into some more serious problems! It pretty quick and simple...but have a Chilton's Manual near by for torque specs and pay close attention.

 

GT_Rich

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Aug 16, 2007

#8

• Aug 16, 2007

• #8

Yeap - what ninety1 said. I should also mention you should spin the wheel as you torque the castle nut to seat the bearings. Not sure if that's in a Chilton's or not.

 

Flavadave4

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#9

• Aug 16, 2007

• #9

ninety15.0 said:

Actually what was said about the castle nut is not true. after you pack and install the wheel bearings you have to torque the castle nut to a specified value. This will seat the wheel bearings. Then you have to back the castle nut off and then just screw it on lightly. Check the secondary torque spec but i remember it being in inch pounds. Then install the cotter pin and make sure everything spins freely. If you do not seat the wheel bearings properly by torquing that castle nut you could run into some more serious problems! It pretty quick and simple...but have a Chilton's Manual near by for torque specs and pay close attention.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I am a self tought weekend mechanic and did not realize this......I don't want to be accused of giving bad advice. I bought the Chiltons and it has helped me through a few things, I guess I missed that part

 

bottlfed92

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#10

• Aug 16, 2007

• #10

Did it...DONE. Rotors are on.

Thanks for the help, guys.

~Jeff

 

Flavadave4

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#11

• Aug 16, 2007

• #11

Nice touch

 

bottlfed92

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#12

• Aug 16, 2007

• #12

Flavadave4 said:

Nice touch

Click to expand...

I like it.
Thanks again, Dave.

 

Flavadave4

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#13

• Aug 16, 2007

• #13

I'm in the 4 lug club still, but your car is begging for some monster brakes and......you guessed it. 5 lugs!

LOL

 

bottlfed92

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#14

• Aug 16, 2007

• #14

Next mod, for sure.

 

ninety15.0

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#15

• Aug 17, 2007

• #15

Those look good bottlefed...are they the EBC rotors? They look very similar to mine...you wont be disappointed! How the wheel bearing install go?