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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Wheel Bearing parts

  • Thread starter Thread starter stangJunkie04
  • Start date Start date Mar 27, 2008

stangJunkie04

New Member
Jul 11, 2005
44
1
0
Vernon, CT
Mar 27, 2008
#1
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #1
It looks like I have a bad left front wheel bearing so I am going to replace the front hub assembly. I just wanted to get some info on the parts I need so I can start a parts list. Any help would be appreciated.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Mar 27, 2008
#2
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #2
I've done this. The Ford manual says to replace the front hub assembly, the dust cap and the nut. I talked to a Ford service tech before I did this and he said the main reason they want you to replace the dust cap is that most people damage it when they go to remove it. I ALMOST got mine out without screwing it up. There is a special tool to remove them for classic Mustangs that would provably work on these newer ones as well but the cost of the tool would be more then the cost of a new dust cap... I think. The reason they say to replace the nut is that is supposedly acts as a "seal". I think this is a load of BS since the bearing in there is a freaking sealed roller bearing. I bought a new nut anyways just to be safe because Ford used torque to yield hardware on the engine and I don't know if torque to yield nuts exist or not.

Summary:
New hub
New dust cap
New hub to spindle attaching nut

Side note:
Why doesn't anyone sell JUST the bearing ? You could press the old bearing out and the new bearing in... WTF ?
 

BCB00GT

Founding Member
Mar 5, 2002
420
0
17
Mar 27, 2008
#3
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #3
The nut looks like disc stacks that get sandwiched down when torqued. I replaced mine when I installed new hub assemblies. You can only get the nut from Ford. The only other parts you need is the dust cap and assembly (either ABS or non ABS). Rent (free rental from auto store) a 250# torque wrench (300 n-m is what they really are) unless you happen to have one. The nut needs to be put on at 254#, if I remember correctly, but it has been 1.5 years.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Mar 27, 2008
#4
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #4
I have never had a bad one, but I did replace a friends hub bearing on his Cobra. The only reason it went bad is because the moron that did the last brake job heated the rotor up because it was seized on. That in turn heated and warped the bearing. A new one was about 55 bucks. I just used a 1/2" impact to take it off and put it on. I didn't even torque it.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Mar 27, 2008
#5
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #5
Mine wasn't even bad but I thought it was because I had this annoying front end squeek and everyone said it was the wheel bearing. Turns out my slide pins were sticking. I still think its BS that no one sells JUST the bearing.
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
3,612
16
69
santa barbara, CA
Mar 27, 2008
#6
  • Mar 27, 2008
  • #6
they dotn sell the bearing because its so much faster to do the hub. at least its not a lincoln ls, if a bearing goes out on them you get to but the whole knuckle.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Mar 28, 2008
#7
  • Mar 28, 2008
  • #7
I could see how fast is equal to cheaper in just about any mechanics shop and that lowers the labor rate but I still say they should offer the bearing for us home guys or maybe charge a core to lower the overall cost.
 
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