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@%@^&$!! Wheel hop??

  • Thread starter Thread starter ptfoxbdy89
  • Start date Start date Oct 8, 2008
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ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
0
0
Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#1
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #1
ok if any of you have seen me post last week you would see that i have had plenty-o-troubles with my new 2005 mustang gt.. its got only 15000 miles on it and i have had my share of troubles with it withing two-weeks.. anyway this morning im leaving out of a gas station and i have tcs off im possitive because the light was illuminated on the center display. Anyway i make a right turn.. the road is wet and i wanna slide the rear around a little so i slip the clutch and pull out.. about halfway out into the road when the rear wheels should be spinnin the car begins to vibrate abruptly i let out of the throttle and the vibrations stop..??? I have been in many of cobra with the ole wheel hop syndrome and thats what it felt like!! any ideas?? i didn't hear any noise from the rear end on the rest of the drive? help!!
 

fasterthanthem

New Member
Mar 29, 2008
0
0
0
Hampton, VA
Oct 8, 2008
#2
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #2
Could be any number of things. The road may not have been as wet as you thought. The road could have been uneven. Your tires were catching traction.. just cause they can.
 

ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
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Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#3
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #3
ok i just didn't know i've heard some spooky things about the 8.8s in the late model mustangs so you think im ok for even the dash board getting the vibrations.. seriously it felt like a 12 second launch lol guess i'm just a little paranoid what with all the other troubles ive had.. thanks for the imput!
 
C

CPman

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
129
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Oct 8, 2008
#4
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #4
It's just the nature of the beast. I think everyone has had this condition at one time or another. Changing the upper and lower rear control arms to units that are more rigid and with stiffer bushings will make this go away. Everything is soft in the rear suspension so you don't feel the road, and you will feel it a little bit more (not much difference at all) with aftermarket componants, but the improvment in hard launches and overall drivability is well worth it.
 

ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
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0
Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#5
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #5
CPman said:
It's just the nature of the beast. I think everyone has had this condition at one time or another. Changing the upper and lower rear control arms to units that are more rigid and with stiffer bushings will make this go away. Everything is soft in the rear suspension so you don't feel the road, and you will feel it a little bit more (not much difference at all) with aftermarket componants, but the improvment in hard launches and overall drivability is well worth it.
Click to expand...

well said ill look into it but would changing the suspension components void my warrenty?
 

xxrequiemxx

Member
Aug 23, 2001
239
0
16
Long Island, NY
Oct 8, 2008
#6
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #6
I had a lot better traction once I got my eagle F1 tires on... Not sure if that helps
 

NastyStang113

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
1,567
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Florida
Oct 8, 2008
#7
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #7
What tires do you have?
 

ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
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0
Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#8
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #8
NastyStang113 said:
What tires do you have?
Click to expand...

i deff got traction i think thats why it wheel hopped like that... i have i'm assuming factory pnerozero 235/55/r17s and the car is bone stock..
 

gmantheman

Member
Dec 30, 2007
483
1
16
Escondido, CA
Oct 8, 2008
#9
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #9
Besides new tires, start with LCA. After installing steeda LCA, wheel hop was not completely eliminated, but it was reduced. My 60' times improved by an avg of .2 sec.
 

hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Oct 8, 2008
#10
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #10
It is wheel hop, it seems worse in the rain. As mentioned, it's the softer bushings in the control arms that are mostly the cause. Some is generated from the stamped lower control arm construction but mostly from the control arms rubber bushings.

The lowers do help as mentioned, but that does not totally eliminate it either. The upper has to be replaced too, and I suggest going with an adjustable one for that. I got caught buying non-adjustable uppers on the Mach1 and later when I lowered it I needed to get the adjustable to get my pinion angle back in sync.

I bought mine before I got my Bullitt and still haven't had a chance to mount them up. I'm chompin' at the bit to drop the hammer on it too but don't want to until I get the good control arms on.
 

The Shape

Founding Member
Jan 11, 2002
2,224
8
49
East ARKANSAS Delta
Oct 8, 2008
#11
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #11
What ended up being the cause of your coolant leak?
 

ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
0
0
Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#12
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #12
The Shape said:
What ended up being the cause of your coolant leak?
Click to expand...

hey lol you guys do remember.. from what i could tell the overflow resevoir had a hairline crack in the threads.. i'm assuming even in the overflow there is still some pressure so i could see that.. i went back to the dealership said they had two options 1. to try my size 11 1/2 up the arse on or 2. go out to one of the 2009 mustangs pull one off and put it on mine! 30 min later i got my car back and not a drop since then so its looking pretty good..

on another note.. you guys think i should get some upper and lower control arms (adjustable of coarse.. thanks for the heads up) before visiting the track.. i just wanted to see what she would do stock and work my way up, my funding towards aftermarket parts isn't what it use to be what with the economy all jacked up and stuff.. and what is a good all around tire i have pretty mild winters here so snow isn't ever a problem im def not buying slicks though this is my daily driver..
 

hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Oct 8, 2008
#13
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #13
ptfoxbdy89 said:
.. you guys think i should get some upper and lower control arms (adjustable of coarse.. thanks for the heads up) before visiting the track.. i just wanted to see what she would do stock and work my way up, my funding towards aftermarket parts isn't what it use to be what with the economy all jacked up and stuff....
Click to expand...
I would not go without them, because of the wheelhop, most tracks it's worse than the street because of the grip juice put on the track.

I broke some parts in the past from violant wheelhop, not sayng that the newer Mustangs aren't strong enough, I just wouldn't chance it.

I got the following at a resonable price:
1. J&M Products Mustang 2005+ Street Lower Control Arms
2. J&M Products Dbl Adjustable Mustang 2005+ Upper Control Arm

These were around $250 from a place here in FL, you may get them all for less looking around.

I might go to the track before, I would just launch without dropping the clutch, sort of a little slip and punch take-off, that way the tires probably won't bust loose and start wheel hopping.
 

ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
0
0
Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#14
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #14
ok thanks for the advise your right i would rather pay $250 and install them myself then try to explain to the dealership why AAA had to tow my car from the track the the rear end was demolished!! by the way would i be able to install the control arms myself.. i have plenty of tools and im semi mechanically inclined.. lol i don't change my blinker fluid often enough though
 
C

CPman

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
129
0
0
Oct 8, 2008
#15
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #15
For sure get your UCA and LCA replaced before going to the track or you will end up just beating your car to death with wheel hop.
 

NastyStang113

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
1,567
1
0
Florida
Oct 8, 2008
#16
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #16
I had the same problem in the rain with the factory tires. I switched to Nitto555s and had zero problems in the rain ...
 

ptfoxbdy89

New Member
Aug 4, 2007
137
0
0
Memphis Tn.
Oct 8, 2008
#17
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #17
really?? that sucks you would think they would not put complete crap on the wheels right out of the box.. ill look around for some different tires
 

hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Oct 8, 2008
#18
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #18
NastyStang113 said:
I had the same problem in the rain with the factory tires. I switched to Nitto555s and had zero problems in the rain ...
Click to expand...

Although the Factory tire may be crap compared to the Nitto555's, actually it is somewhat better in the wet. The Factory tire is an MS tire as the Nitto555 is an ultra highperformance summer tire. It probably doesn't quite get the wet traction the Factory tire does so therefore you don't get the wheelhop.

Yes I would still prefer the Nitto555 over the factory tires because of the superior dry traction levels.
 

hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Oct 8, 2008
#19
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #19
ptfoxbdy89 said:
ok thanks for the advise your right i would rather pay $250 and install them myself then try to explain to the dealership why AAA had to tow my car from the track the the rear end was demolished!! by the way would i be able to install the control arms myself.. i have plenty of tools and im semi mechanically inclined.. lol i don't change my blinker fluid often enough though
Click to expand...

I would say yes you can install them yourself. You will need jackstands of course to support the car and I use my floor jack to support the differential while lining up the bolt holes in the control arms. Do one side at a time and then the upper by itself, that will make it eaiser to line up.
 

autumn_again

New Member
Oct 2, 2007
356
0
0
Hamilton, NJ
Oct 8, 2008
#20
  • Oct 8, 2008
  • #20
yeah i'm suffering from wheel hop too. i ordered the LCAS from cjpony parts, said they were shipping em 2 days ago, so we shall see when they get here when i launch it.

i'm also thinking of going as far as the anti roll bar. i loved the fact with my old stang i could just give it some revs, dump the clutch and take off in a cloud of smoke.
 
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