Wheel Hop?

Stange86 · May 15, 2012

What can I buy to get rid of the very annoying wheel hop on my 2011 GT. Also does anyone know of a company that offers a black interior swap. I bought my GT with the tan interior and I would prefer the black leather.

bbb455 · May 15, 2012

I installed BMR upper and lower controls arms and it eliminated the wheel hop. the trade off is more interior noise due to the harder bushing, but the wheel hop is gone. As for the interior, maybe you can have it dyed.

SpartaPerformance · May 15, 2012

CHE lower control arms. We sell them with free ground shipping at currently have 10% off promotion for Stangnet members.

Svtpilot · May 17, 2012

I installed J&M upper and lower control arms and the wheel hop is gone. Pretty much any of the numerous after market control arms available are superior to the factory pieces and will eliminate axle hope.

Sharad · May 18, 2012

Ditto on the above comments. Upgraded control arms eliminate the wheel hop, and interestingly enough, lowering springs reduce it as well.

TT5.0ca · May 19, 2012

Roush upper is a quiet, simple way to eliminate the WH. Axle seems connected to the throttle and getting on the gas doesn't seem like it's gonna leave the rear end on the road, American Grafitti style.

pravataracing · May 23, 2012

Just ordered my lower and upper control arms Saturday. Can't wait to get them installed and try them out Friday night.

Sharad · May 24, 2012

pravataracing said:
Just ordered my lower and upper control arms Saturday. Can't wait to get them installed and try them out Friday night.

What brand?

pravataracing · May 24, 2012

UPR upper & J&M lowers

CCS86 · May 25, 2012

I will be installing a Spohn Del-sphere UCA in a few days by itself and will report back.

Axle windup (main cause of wheel hop) is controlled by the upper and lower control arms. Since there is only one UCA vs two lowers, it's reasonable to say that the upper will have a bigger effect.

Avoid the temptation to put upper or lower arms on with poly bushings on both ends. The arms need to twist as the suspension articulates. Poly bushings do not allow this and will bind.

Svtpilot · May 25, 2012

I have had my J&M LCAs with poly bushings for over a year. No binding here.

CCS86 · May 27, 2012

Based on what?

Svtpilot · May 27, 2012

Based on the fact that I driven the car for over a year sine I had them installed and nothing is binding. Or at least not that I can feel. The upper has a poly bushing on the body end and use the factory bushing in the differential end. The lowers use poly bushing at both ends.

CCS86 · May 27, 2012

Svtpilot said:
Or at least not that I can feel.

That is my point. It's not a knock against you, but just because you don't feel it, doesn't mean it isn't happening.

Leaving rubber on one side of the upper arm is probably good enough to allow for it to articulate, but the lowers are causing bind. Basically, as the car's body rolls, the bind raises the wheel rate unpredictably and reduces grip. This can fatigue the chassis mounts over time too.

Svtpilot · May 27, 2012

OK if you says so. I can't see not noticing something like you described. All I know is that axle hop has been completely eliminated, the cars pulls better out of the hole and the rear feels more stable , less twitchy during hard corning. The arms I bought have spherical bearings surrounded by a polyurethane bushing at the axle end so maybe that is why I feel no binding.

CCS86 · May 28, 2012

Hahaha, well yeah!

I was talking about having arms that use poly on both ends. Having either a spherical bearing, or similar is plenty to allow good articulation.

I just installed a Spohn adjustable poly / del-sphere panhard bar today. I'm happy to say that I haven't noticed any increase in NVH from the change.

It's also worth mentioning that when I installed it, it was set to the factory length, but I did have to clock the del-sphere joint. With the mounting bolts torqued down and the car at rode height, the del-sphere joint was near one side of its range. A quick tweak with a wrench and it was right in the middle.

I had wondered whether it was necessary to include an articulating joint in the panhard bar. But after seeing some misalignment between axle and chassis side brackets and then factoring in axle wrap, it makes a lot of sense to do so.

Svtpilot · May 29, 2012

Well if the car is lowered an adjustable panhard bar is needed to recenter the rear suspension in relation to the body. In fact it's my next purchase.

SteedaBrandon · May 29, 2012

Stange86 said:
What can I buy to get rid of the very annoying wheel hop on my 2011 GT. Also does anyone know of a company that offers a black interior swap. I bought my GT with the tan interior and I would prefer the black leather.

Upper and lower control arms will help prevent wheel hop. Let me know if I can help you with that.

Sharad · May 29, 2012

pravataracing said:
UPR upper & J&M lowers

Sweet. I just installed the UPR UCA & mount on my car this weekend. I can feel the difference!

pravataracing · Jun 3, 2012

Just installed the UPR upper control arm & mount and the terrible wheel hop is completely gone.

Wheel Hop?

Stange86

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bbb455

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SpartaPerformance

Svtpilot

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

TT5.0ca

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pravataracing

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Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

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CCS86

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ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?

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