wheel rubbing fender

YellowMach69 · May 11, 2005

When i look at my front wheels, the drivers side is not centered in wheel well , when i turn car it actually rubs the fender,The passenger side is centered nicly in wheel well, why would it be so off? car drives straight ,and ive been under this car a million times and there has never been any structural damage. Do i need to adjjust the long rod with the bushings from front end to lower control arm?? plz help its very embarrassing when turning in parking lot and you hear the tire grinding into the wheel well

bnickel · May 11, 2005

definitely sounds like you have too much positive caster, you can adjust the strut rod to fix that, provided there is nough adjustment in it. also check for any shims on the upper a arm

YellowMach69 · May 11, 2005

Yes there is a shim between tower and control arm isnt that normal?But i will check the amount left to adjudt that camber thanks brickel!!

bnickel · May 11, 2005

YellowMach69 said:
Yes there is a shim between tower and control arm isnt that normal?But i will check the amount left to adjudt that camber thanks brickel!!

is there one on both UCA bolts on that side? if so remove the rear one, if there is only one and it's on the rear , remove it. 67-73 don't use shims because the caster and camber are adjustable unlike the 65-66 cars which require shims to sdjust caster and camber.

grego37 · May 12, 2005

dont adjust the (strut rods)caster yourself, unless you have the camber/caster plate tool and you know what you're doing,get it re-aligned and have them address the issue.
if they're not adjusted to the same caster setting the car will pull to the side with less positive caster.

What are you using for strut rod bushings?
stock rubber (too soft)
performance rubber (perfect)
or poly? (too hard)

Old Blue · May 12, 2005

bnickel said:
is there one on both UCA bolts on that side? if so remove the rear one, if there is only one and it's on the rear , remove it. 67-73 don't use shims because the caster and camber are adjustable unlike the 65-66 cars which require shims to sdjust caster and camber.

am i to understand that for 67-73 you should not use shims at all?

bnickel · May 12, 2005

Old Blue said:
am i to understand that for 67-73 you should not use shims at all?

yes, if the alignment guy uses shims he does not know to align you're car or there is some kind of damage to the car

grego37 · May 12, 2005

Right shims are for 65-66!

caster is adjusted by lengthening (for more neg. caster) and shortening (for more pos. caster) of the strut rod assy.

camber is adjusted at the lower control arm where its bolted in on the frame, either by turning the facorty eccentric bolt, or by changing the setting on the eccentric lock out plates (made by Global West, TCP, Pro-motorsports etc...)

YellowMach69 · May 12, 2005

grego37 said:
Right shims are for 65-66!

caster is adjusted by lengthening (for more neg. caster) and shortening (for more pos. caster) of the strut rod assy.

camber is adjusted at the lower control arm where its bolted in on the frame, either by turning the facorty eccentric bolt, or by changing the setting on the eccentric lock out plates (made by Global West, TCP, Pro-motorsports etc...)

where is the eccentric lock out plate? i know of the eccentric , which has a washer that is like cam designed,

grego37 · May 12, 2005

Eccentric lock out plate is an aftermarket product made by Global west, or TCP or Pro motorsports maybe others too.

These plates kits replace the stock bolt and eccentric pieces. They are square plates with pre-drilled holes (camber settings)
Your average vehicle doesnt need them, what your running is fine, unless yours are loosening up by themselves. People who usually use them have a ton of money invested into their suspension and are road racing on the weekends or.

What the plates do is lock in the camber setting so it wont change. "locked in"

you can check out the companies I listed for more info.

YellowMach69 · May 13, 2005

Ok what i found was that the long threaded rod was like way out of adjustment, I adjusted it to about where the other side is,Now the wheel is centered in wheelwell, But there is a shim between the shocktower and the upper control arm ,I should remove that? then get a front end alignment?

bnickel · May 13, 2005

YellowMach69 said:
Ok what i found was that the long threaded rod was like way out of adjustment, I adjusted it to about where the other side is,Now the wheel is centered in wheelwell, But there is a shim between the shocktower and the upper control arm ,I should remove that? then get a front end alignment?

yes

YellowMach69 · May 13, 2005

bnickel did you see that 1969 coupe with a 6 banger on ebay its mint , like 56,000 original miles,cheap too!!

Jester67 · May 13, 2005

YellowMach69 said:
Ok what i found was that the long threaded rod was like way out of adjustment, I adjusted it to about where the other side is,Now the wheel is centered in wheelwell, But there is a shim between the shocktower and the upper control arm ,I should remove that? then get a front end alignment?

Is this on the same side as the tower you had cracking on?

YellowMach69 · May 13, 2005

yes it is on same side, Why is this another problem?eeeekkk

Jester67 · May 13, 2005

It just sounds like your PO messed with the geometry and that would add to the stress on the towers get the shims out and get it aligned correctly. I would measure the UCA on both sides and compare them.

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