Wheel Spacers?

makdad

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
387
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Maine
Just wondering what size wheel spacers to get to get the stock rim out a bit in the back? anyone know?...I just dont have the money right now for the tires for the new rims...nut I want to get my rears out a bit 4 now..prob a waste of money but o well..i could always sell them when I am done wit em..any ideas?
 
It is primarily for appearance, BUT, a wider tread width does improve handling.
No need to PM me for pics, here they are:

1 1/4 inch

rearspacer.jpg

rear2.jpg


I like them alot, they make a huge difference in the stance of my car. I will be selling them in a few months once I have enough $$$ for my Black Bullitts. :banana:
 
mcmmotorsports said:
It is primarily for appearance, BUT, a wider tread width does improve handling.
True....but that's only if you're upgrading your wheels and tires along with it. If you're still running your stock wheels along with the set up (like makdad said he would be) then the additional 2" or so of with is going to provide a marginal improvement, at best.
 
I have 30mm (1-3/16") H&R spacers on my rear. Once I lowered my car the rear wheels looked way too inset. The spacers have definitely improved the look and I haven't scrapped on my tires yet (knock on wood). These pictures aren't the best but I think you can see the difference.

Before I put on the wheel spacers (after lowering)...

spacer_before.jpg



After I installed the spacers (and smoked headlights)...

spacer_after.jpg



I had to grind down the wheel lugs but not too much.
The spacers...

wildfire_wheel_spacer.jpg




My pets after the change.... (j/k)

caught.jpg
 
I just bought some 1.25" at the Daytona Sping show last month and installed them. Looks good, but I'm finding they rub whenever I go over bumps. This weekend I had the car loaded going to the Mustangs and Mustangs show here in Florida, and scraped over every bump on the highway it seemed. Don't like the idea of my fenders now being the bump stops and tearing up the edge of my tires.

I didn't need to shave anything with the 1.25" but the tires are being shaved now :( What width will work best and still clear the fenders? I have Steeda Springs and Tokicos and want to keep my stock wheels. I'm only looking at doing the rear ones to get a wider looking stance and fill in that gap.

Also, will doing just the rear effect the alignment and wear characteristics, and can an alignment still be done at the local tire shop?
 
rs-turbo said:
I just bought some 1.25" at the Daytona Sping show last month and installed them. Looks good, but I'm finding they rub whenever I go over bumps. This weekend I had the car loaded going to the Mustangs and Mustangs show here in Florida, and scraped over every bump on the highway it seemed. Don't like the idea of my fenders now being the bump stops and tearing up the edge of my tires.

I didn't need to shave anything with the 1.25" but the tires are being shaved now :( What width will work best and still clear the fenders? I have Steeda Springs and Tokicos and want to keep my stock wheels. I'm only looking at doing the rear ones to get a wider looking stance and fill in that gap.

Also, will doing just the rear effect the alignment and wear characteristics, and can an alignment still be done at the local tire shop?
Would rolling the fender lips help?
 
rs-turbo said:
I just bought some 1.25" at the Daytona Sping show last month and installed them. Looks good, but I'm finding they rub whenever I go over bumps. This weekend I had the car loaded going to the Mustangs and Mustangs show here in Florida, and scraped over every bump on the highway it seemed. Don't like the idea of my fenders now being the bump stops and tearing up the edge of my tires.

I didn't need to shave anything with the 1.25" but the tires are being shaved now :( What width will work best and still clear the fenders? I have Steeda Springs and Tokicos and want to keep my stock wheels. I'm only looking at doing the rear ones to get a wider looking stance and fill in that gap.

Also, will doing just the rear effect the alignment and wear characteristics, and can an alignment still be done at the local tire shop?


Yeah, roll your rear fenders.
 
What do you mean by rolling the fenders? Bending them underneath up? Might work, but not sure how this would be done and not really crazy about damaging the metal hoping it works. Won't this also weaken the fender a bit? While loaded for the show this past weekend I was parked on the grass. Went into a slight dip and needed to back up into my space, but the tire was flush against the fender and I couldn't move without grinding away the tire. Needed to unload the car first.

Was doing some more reading and the H&R 1 inch spacers have the hub support (hubcentric?). The ones I have center over the hub but have no center pieces for the rim to line up with, they are smooth. The bolts seem to have lined things up and I don't have any noticable vibration.

But wondering if the 1 inch H&R style is a better setup. Also noticed wear the other day on the inside passenger tire. I think this is more the alignment I got back in Dec, since it looks like it's been happening for a while, but I can't help wonder when I go back to the tire shop and they say it's due to the spacers. Probably best to take them off before going back.

Mike
 
rs-turbo said:
What do you mean by rolling the fenders? Bending them underneath up? Might work, but not sure how this would be done and not really crazy about damaging the metal hoping it works. Won't this also weaken the fender a bit?

That's exactly what it is. The best way to do it, would be to go to your local tool rental place (Autozone or whatever you guys have in the US) and rent the rolling tool and a heat gun. If you haven't access to the proper tool, an old school way is to use a baseball bat. Place the fat end of the bat between the tire and the edge of the fender and roll it along the tire on one end and over the edge of the fend lip with the other. Warm the surface of the fender lip up enough to soften the paint first, so it doesn't crack when you're performing the task. This act won't decrease the strength of your fenders noticeably, as you're not removing the lip, only reshaping it.

This is actually a Subaru in these pictures, but the principal is the same.

Setup_4_600.JPG


Setup_5_600.JPG


Setup_6_600.JPG


Here's another article that may explain it in better detail.....

http://www.eurotuner.com/howto/99762/index1.html


rs-turbo said:
Was doing some more reading and the H&R 1 inch spacers have the hub support (hubcentric?). The ones I have center over the hub but have no center pieces for the rim to line up with, they are smooth. The bolts seem to have lined things up and I don't have any noticable vibration.

But wondering if the 1 inch H&R style is a better setup. Also noticed wear the other day on the inside passenger tire. I think this is more the alignment I got back in Dec, since it looks like it's been happening for a while, but I can't help wonder when I go back to the tire shop and they say it's due to the spacers. Probably best to take them off before going back.

Mike
The wear on the edge of the tire is likely due to the spacers rubbing against the fender, yes. But I doubt switch over to the H&R style likely isn't going to make any difference, unless you're able to see that the added .25" will make much of a difference. Also, the reason yours do not align with the hub of the wheel is because they are not hub centric, but in fact lug centric. One is really no better than the other unless you've got issues with the rim being out of balance.