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When to install an aftermarket K member

  • Thread starter Thread starter limp
  • Start date Start date Dec 31, 2020
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#1
  • Dec 31, 2020
  • #1
Do the stock K members wear out or would a new aftermarket K member be worth the cost for a daily driver?? Engine is coming out of my 83 convertible tomorrow and if there is a time to replace it, now would be it.... Give me some reasons to or NOT to waste money on it...
Thanks to all on here
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#2
  • Dec 31, 2020
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The stock K-member does not wear out, but it can rust out. The factory K-member is generally stronger than all but a few of the aftermarket tubular K-members. In fact, putting a tubular on a street car can be a bit of a hazard, since most of them are designed for drag racing, and aren't really up to the daily challenges of rough roads, pot holes, curbs, etc, that can cause them to break. There are a couple of possible advantages to a tubular K-member. The primary is weight, and on a drag car, every ounce counts. It's actually not that much lighter than a stock K-member. The second is control arm angle for better handling. The biggest advantage to a tubular is that it doesn't become a collection tray for 8mm sockets, and makes working on things like starters and exhaust easier. Generally a tubular K-member is not a recommended mod for a street car.

Kurt
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#3
  • Dec 31, 2020
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Thanks Kurt,
Rust is not a problem with this car, it is basically rust free ( lucky for once LOL) My concern was if the K member weakens over time due to years of flexing or metal fatigue... Any thoughts on lower control arms?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#4
  • Dec 31, 2020
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As someone who just installed an aftermarket k-member and tubular arms, I’d say that unless you plan on going to town on this car with major mods, leave it alone. The stock one is fine. The stock one is strong.

there are benefits to them, but generally for a street cruiser type car...leave the stock one
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
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#5
  • Dec 31, 2020
  • #5
limpdick said:
Thanks Kurt,
Rust is not a problem with this car, it is basically rust free ( lucky for once LOL) My concern was if the K member weakens over time due to years of flexing or metal fatigue... Any thoughts on lower control arms?
Click to expand...

No chance of flexing. Those factory K-members are rolled steel, and unless the car has been in a collision, it's going to be strong. Control arms all depends on what you want to do with the car. The stock ones don't bend unless they are in a collision, and last forever. So there is nothing wrong with putting new bushings in, and new ball joints.

Kurt
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#6
  • Dec 31, 2020
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Mustang5L5 said:
As someone who just installed an aftermarket k-member and tubular arms, I’d say that unless you plan on going to town on this car with major mods, leave it alone. The stock one is fine. The stock one is strong.

there are benefits to them, but generally for a street cruiser type car...leave the stock one
Click to expand...
Did you plan on going to town on yours? Isn’t your car gonna be a street cruiser type car?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#7
  • Dec 31, 2020
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CarMichael Angelo said:
Did you plan on going to town on yours? Isn’t your car gonna be a street cruiser type car?
Click to expand...

if I could go back in time, I would have just done a set of springs and good struts and called it a day. Unfortunately it snowballed. Now I have a lot of fancy parts to cruise down to the local coffee shop with.

With that said. I won’t be taking any of them off anytime soon
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#8
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Just sayin’...You cannot advise someone to “stick to the streets, and stay off the moors“ when you have clearly driven full speed straight into the bog.
 
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Mustang5L5

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#9
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No arguement there.
 

limp

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#10
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Mustang5L5 said:
No arguement there.
Click to expand...
What springs would you have done?
 

Mustang5L5

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#11
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limpdick said:
What springs would you have done?
Click to expand...

H&R springs with bilstien shocks/struts and Subframe connectors
 
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a91what

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#12
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after seeing a few different K members installed I have to agree with the above statements... I have a UPR K member in my car and it would be great for a drag car, but I wish I would have used the MM K member as it is much more substantial. In my case I did not have a choice and needed the clearance a tubular K member allows.
 
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limp

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#13
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a91what said:
after seeing a few different K members installed I have to agree with the above statements... I have a UPR K member in my car and it would be great for a drag car, but I wish I would have used the MM K member as it is much more substantial. In my case I did not have a choice and needed the clearance a tubular K member allows.
Click to expand...
Based on the pictures I have seen, the BMR, using the stock springs, would have been my pick... Again based on the pictures it looked pretty beefy to me..
 

limp

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#14
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My knowledge of Foxbody cars is "ZERO" so as I delve into this project websites like this are priceless to me.....
I started this post as I am at a good place IF I was to do a new K member its now... I have seen so MANY after market K members produced for Fox bodies I thought there might be a weak point in the stock K members.... Glad to know that the stock one will work fine for me.....
 

a91what

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#15
  • Jan 1, 2021
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limpdick said:
Based on the pictures I have seen, the BMR, using the stock springs, would have been my pick... Again based on the pictures it looked pretty beefy to me..
Click to expand...
fwiw the MM unit was designed for use on a road course car.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#16
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most of the K-members are drag orientated. The MM is road-course based. Even Jack Hidley has stated the stock one is stronger still.

they still can be bent. I have one that’s bent. (Which is why I bought the MM unit.)
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#17
  • Jan 1, 2021
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Mustang5L5 said:
most of the K-members are drag orientated. The MM is road-course based. Even Jack Hidley has stated the stock one is stronger still.

they still can be bent. I have one that’s bent. (Which is why I bought the MM unit.)
Click to expand...
Can a person still get a NEW stock K member????
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#18
  • Jan 1, 2021
  • #18
limpdick said:
Can a person still get a NEW stock K member????
Click to expand...

Perhaps not, at least, I'm not aware of one but...


There's a metric chit-ton of them in the junkyards.



Off-Topic: Your screen name is about to change. I am open to your suggestions as to what it will be. This will occur today.
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#19
  • Jan 1, 2021
  • #19
limpdick said:
Can a person still get a NEW stock K member????
Click to expand...

no, but you can get a used one cheap. You just need to get the correct one for your car. There are differences
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#20
  • Jan 1, 2021
  • #20
Mustang5L5 said:
no, but you can get a used one cheap. You just need to get the correct one for your car. There are differences
Click to expand...
Are the diffferences based on year built?
 
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