Where can I purchase a 302 r block from?

  • Sponsors (?)


FRPP doesn't manufacture the R block anymore-it was succeeded by the Boss block...supposed to be a better block anyway, but has some particularities. I don't know if you'd pay sales tax picking it up local, but if you order from either Jeg's or Summit, they sell the block a little cheaper, and charge (I think) about $200 for freight to a residential delivery.
 
FRPP doesn't manufacture the R block anymore-it was succeeded by the Boss block...supposed to be a better block anyway, but has some particularities. I don't know if you'd pay sales tax picking it up local, but if you order from either Jeg's or Summit, they sell the block a little cheaper, and charge (I think) about $200 for freight to a residential delivery.
Thanks for going more in detail on that, :nice:
 
+2 talk to an engine builder let him know what you want and go that way. RIck91GT on here builds motors for alot of people very good work and great prices. Other than that you can search your area. The ford block needs lots of machining or something is diff. with that.
 
No hate intended notchback-I just know they're not made anymore, and the people who have them seem to want a frikkin' mint for them...like they're an original boss block or something...if you have one, they're great.

The R block can't go big bore, right? IIRC, I thought it could only go to about .060" over. A Dart will go .125+.

That is incorrect-the old A4 block could only go +0.060" without sonic checking, but the R could go big bore if I recall reading the articles...they were siamesed castings and the walls were thick...

But, the folks recommending the Dart block are probably right...for the little extra ching, you save money in the long run with machine work, and I don't think there's a need for the *special* parts.
 
Why all the R block hate? Jeff runs 10s on an R block with literally hundreds of more horsepower potential. I plan on making 800 horsepower through my R347. Different ways to skin a cat.

Not really hate, it's just the R block is a more elusive and finicky creature than the Dart is.

That is incorrect-the old A4 block could only go +0.060" without sonic checking, but the R could go big bore if I recall reading the articles...they were siamesed castings and the walls were thick...

Ahh, I see, I see.
 
No hate for the R block, but if I had to recommend a block to buy from the start it would be a DART. I never was real happy about tapping and plugging the extra holes on the R block surface for the coolant holes. Im not overly happy with the short skirts on the BOSS block, the 3.4" stroke pulls the piston just a hair too far down the bore for me. Ive sonic checked the DART block and you could go 4.2 if needed.

If you need another source for a aftermarket race block Id be glad to help.
 
No hate for the R block, but if I had to recommend a block to buy from the start it would be a DART. I never was real happy about tapping and plugging the extra holes on the R block surface for the coolant holes. Im not overly happy with the short skirts on the BOSS block, the 3.4" stroke pulls the piston just a hair too far down the bore for me. Ive sonic checked the DART block and you could go 4.2 if needed.

If you need another source for a aftermarket race block Id be glad to help.

I recall hearing about the steam hole bs on the R block before, but I'd never heard about the shorter cylinder cores on the Boss block-that sucks!
 
No hate for the R block, but if I had to recommend a block to buy from the start it would be a DART. I never was real happy about tapping and plugging the extra holes on the R block surface for the coolant holes. Im not overly happy with the short skirts on the BOSS block, the 3.4" stroke pulls the piston just a hair too far down the bore for me. Ive sonic checked the DART block and you could go 4.2 if needed.

If you need another source for a aftermarket race block Id be glad to help.

I was skeptical about the bore thing, and a lot of the media coverage and the Ford reps themselves claim that the short bores in the Boss aren't a problem, but I know Woody over at Ford Strokers discourages his customers from running them, and has at least one customer that tore up their pistons in a 3.4" stroke Boss block.

I still have no idea why Ford released that thing with short bores. They claim it's for stroker clearance, but that's BS. They easily could have casted in clearance for strokers without shortening the whole cylinder.
 
There is nothing wrong with a R block. Its just if you are starting from scratch start with the dart. If you happen to find a deal on a shortblock and is a R block thats no reason not to buy it. They are very rugged but there is more machining that needs to be done so it could get clostly.
 
I agree wholeheartedly that a DART is a better base to start from. If I came across a DART 347 when I was shopping for a short block, I would have snapped it up in a second. For me, the R was more than enough to satisfy my power goal. It'll handle what I throw at it and probably laugh and beg for more boost. This fact is why this will likely be the last motor combo I build. Not because I don't want to, just because me + 800 horsepower Mustang + EVOs and Hondas = funeral.

Furthermore, I know my calculus. It says you + me = us.