where to buy 8.8 rear?

Moser, D&D Motorsports and maybe E-bay

Paulywalnuts446 said:

where can i get a new rear set up for racing? like with aftermarket disc brakes, axles, gears..

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What kind of racing are you going to be doing? Drag, street, auto-x?

Tim

EDIT: See Joe's reply.

Been there and done that! With success!

Do the 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear end swap! It is an 8.8 with all the goodies! Same rear end as the 93 Cobra's.

Auto trans 87-88 Tbird Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving. Both ratios have 10.5 disk brakes with vented rotors as standard equipment.
It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.

You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.


You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.

Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny.

See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.

All in all I have been very pleased with the results.

Joe's route is a quick, inexpensive way to get rear disc and 3.55 or 3.73 gears.

Tim

Any suggestions on just simple replacing a stock unit on a 90 gt AOD with an aftermarket one? Are there any that are direct fit with different gear ratios available? If so where can I find one?

One of my friends suggested getting mine rebuilt. The problem is that the posi is shot...(only one tire will spin when doing a burnout). I have no intentions of racing, I simply want to fix this problem and most likely go to 3.73 in the process.

This is all NEW TO ME so any and all advice is greatly appreciated. THANKS

You can also get a Ford 9" that is a direct fit in Mustangs from Summit Racing. The brand name is Currie.

snowman23 said:

Any suggestions on just simple replacing a stock unit on a 90 gt AOD with an aftermarket one? Are there any that are direct fit with different gear ratios available? If so where can I find one?
This is all NEW TO ME so any and all advice is greatly appreciated. THANKS

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WEll all you need to do is go out and buy an aftermarket Posi unit Eaton, auburn, and there are many more out there. Buy your gear drive it over to a shop they should be able to get that in, in an afternoon and you will be good to go. Remember you have 28 spline axels so buy accordingly.

snowman23 said:

Any suggestions on just simple replacing a stock unit on a 90 gt AOD with an aftermarket one? Are there any that are direct fit with different gear ratios available? If so where can I find one?

One of my friends suggested getting mine rebuilt. The problem is that the posi is shot...(only one tire will spin when doing a burnout). I have no intentions of racing, I simply want to fix this problem and most likely go to 3.73 in the process.

This is all NEW TO ME so any and all advice is greatly appreciated. THANKS

Click to expand...

Personally I would just have it rebuilt. If you aren't going to race then there really is no reason to go spend a couple of hundred bucks on a new diff and then for labor to have it installed. The rebuild kit is about $40 and then labor to take out, rebuild and reinstall. I figure that if you priced between the two ways you would find that the rebuild is cheaper. Here is a site that shows the ins and outs of rebuilding a diff.

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5ohcpa/cpa5ohtech001.htm

Can also check out DTS.
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

Thanks for the advice. As I said this is all new to me and I am learning as I go. I will check into and price out both ways and hopefully I can get this resolved soon enough.
Thanks again.