Where to buy a full 3G Alternator kit these days
- Thread starter 5LiterWes
- Start date
I wish you could too, but I'm not sure what you can tell by looking at the case, unless you disassembled it.
FWIW, here's what my PAperformance alternator looks like:
FWIW, here's what my PAperformance alternator looks like:
From the fron it looks the same, on the electrical connection the myne has a ford logo. My alternator is a case that works on my mustang with 130 amp internals from E-350's that are used as service vehicles. When the towns and cities get them they ditch the stock alternators for bigger ones to run all the lighting and whatnot. This local guy buys all of them, and rebuilds them to fit the mustangs and whatever other vehicles can use them. He sells them for 105 bucks and told me if i ever had any problems he would fix it for free.
He had the two apart(PA and Ford) and the problem my PA alternator had was there was an internal wire soldered that kept vibrating itself loose, so for a few days my car would only charge intermitently and died on me a couple times. The ford one had the same wire but had a cover over it and was a much thicker wire so he assured me that it would not fail like the chinese PA unit. The PA alternator lasted me 1.5 summers and i had to rebuild it twice, Ive had the ford in for 1 summers and put about twice the mileage as the PA with no issues. The PA didnt give me troubles till i got the bugs worked out of the car and actually started putting miles on it
He had the two apart(PA and Ford) and the problem my PA alternator had was there was an internal wire soldered that kept vibrating itself loose, so for a few days my car would only charge intermitently and died on me a couple times. The ford one had the same wire but had a cover over it and was a much thicker wire so he assured me that it would not fail like the chinese PA unit. The PA alternator lasted me 1.5 summers and i had to rebuild it twice, Ive had the ford in for 1 summers and put about twice the mileage as the PA with no issues. The PA didnt give me troubles till i got the bugs worked out of the car and actually started putting miles on it
Beasty306GT
Active Member
Hi all. We are hoping to help clear up some misconceptions and provide you with a path to ask reasonable questions about our product. If you have a question or concern, the fastest answers come by calling our toll free number. We created an account with the help of Chris (FastDriver) in hopes of helping you.
Ok.
The topics at hand I see are china, comparing brands and price.
Ford and only Ford up until 2009 built their alterators and parts in Michigan. Now they are made in... JAPAN.
Everyone else, ourselves included, sources product all over the globe. It is sad that some members make general "china crap" labels and really they are speaking without any real experience. Never believe everything you read on the internet. Those statements are honestly just inaccurate. Our units are assembled in PA - USA. Parts from Germany, Brazil, USA, China, Taiwan, and Canada.
As for what you can see from the outside or even looking at components, that's all a myth. You can't see the things that make a unit more robust. Simple as that.
Price. Everyone has an opinion on price, where to buy, how to save, what's worth it and what isn't. Do I make a cable or buy a cable - do I buy a junkyard unit or one from the parts store... 100% new or reman... I am not touching that topic. To each his own.
If you have any legitimate product or technical or even sales questions feel free to post them, PM, or call. We will do our best to answer them.
Thanks for the chance to explain, have a great day!
Ok.
The topics at hand I see are china, comparing brands and price.
Ford and only Ford up until 2009 built their alterators and parts in Michigan. Now they are made in... JAPAN.
Everyone else, ourselves included, sources product all over the globe. It is sad that some members make general "china crap" labels and really they are speaking without any real experience. Never believe everything you read on the internet. Those statements are honestly just inaccurate. Our units are assembled in PA - USA. Parts from Germany, Brazil, USA, China, Taiwan, and Canada.
As for what you can see from the outside or even looking at components, that's all a myth. You can't see the things that make a unit more robust. Simple as that.
Price. Everyone has an opinion on price, where to buy, how to save, what's worth it and what isn't. Do I make a cable or buy a cable - do I buy a junkyard unit or one from the parts store... 100% new or reman... I am not touching that topic. To each his own.
If you have any legitimate product or technical or even sales questions feel free to post them, PM, or call. We will do our best to answer them.
Thanks for the chance to explain, have a great day!
Rick, one thing you mentioned to me was how length of wire affects its capacity (right word?). For example a 4g wire that is 2 feet long can handle more amps for a longer period of time than one that's 20 feet long. So, for example, using a 4g wire is still appropriate with the bigger alternators. This was an important point to me since I was concerned that my 4g wire was not adequate.
I feel i have real expierience because I saw first hand the quality differences in your stuff and what i replaced it with. The part that failed on my alternator was the piece of wire that was soldered to what looked like a little ball. Im not sure the technical term for this. any explanation on this?
I thought i was getting a quality piece that i would only have to buy once like your website banner says... thats why i bought the product, cause i thought it was good. I was disapointed when the alternator failed and left me on the side of the road.(twice)
Correct. If I can find the chart on the internet I'll post it, but: There is a proportion of load versus length on any given wire size. I am sure you have bought a large power tool - they will tell you to use a certain minimum size extension cord at a given length.
In our case, #4 gauge wire will carry continuous load of 65 amps up to 28 feet or up to 200amps (which you will never ever see in your car "continuous") to 8 feet. Make sense?
In our case, #4 gauge wire will carry continuous load of 65 amps up to 28 feet or up to 200amps (which you will never ever see in your car "continuous") to 8 feet. Make sense?
I am not going to debate "experience". We build THOUSANDS of alternators. Please don't make assumptions about the industry or any given company based on a one piece sample.
The part you are describing sounds like a rotor lead, the entire industry used that design about 6+ years ago. Ford did not, but, the Ford units were only available at the Ford plant in a NEW car and they also made much less power.
There is a sheet in every box that tells how to avoid that very problem. Perhaps you did not do the math? A 10.00 pulley was the cure but many people just over-spun them and had the problem. Every customer is welcome to call and review any concerns and failures.
The rotor lead was succeptable to high RPM failure. That design is long long gone. It is still impoartant not to exceed the maximum RPM limits of an alternator, this applies to every alternator not just our brand. I have seen Ford units come apart too, it just takes more RPM's.
Hope that helps!
The part you are describing sounds like a rotor lead, the entire industry used that design about 6+ years ago. Ford did not, but, the Ford units were only available at the Ford plant in a NEW car and they also made much less power.
There is a sheet in every box that tells how to avoid that very problem. Perhaps you did not do the math? A 10.00 pulley was the cure but many people just over-spun them and had the problem. Every customer is welcome to call and review any concerns and failures.
The rotor lead was succeptable to high RPM failure. That design is long long gone. It is still impoartant not to exceed the maximum RPM limits of an alternator, this applies to every alternator not just our brand. I have seen Ford units come apart too, it just takes more RPM's.
Hope that helps!
The main things that affect electrical resistance are material, cross sectional area, temperature and total length, correct? I still remember a thing or two from my electrical engineering class at Purdue, or gEEk, as we liked to call it.
It's unfortunate that the early products were prone to failure, but that's what I like to see, when a company makes running updates and corrections to it's product. Shows me that they actually take their product seriously, and that they believe it's important to deliver a quality part to their customers.
