You get paint from a paint distributor, not the dealer. There are tons of variables in this. To be honest, if you don't know where to get paint codes or paint, will you be able to paint the car yourself? It is much harder to do a good job than most know. Practice makes perfect for this. I would know, I am ASE Master Tech certified.
To specifically answer your questions, look at the data sticker in the door jamb. It will have a line that says paint and a two letter code. For example black would be UA. Talk with a few different body shops about their paint distributor. They may use PPG, DuPont, Sherwin-Williams, R-M, Glasurit, etc. Professional paint is all very similar in my opinion. Most shops use one or the other based on their relationship with the distributor and not the paint. Now, there are tons of fanatics out there about their brands being best, and everyone has an opinion. Cost is not always an indicator of performance. Contact a few paint distributors in your area and ask questions. You cannot ask enough questions before purchasing the paint.
How much paint to buy is a loaded question. Are you painting the jambs and undersides of hood/trunk/etc? Are you doing a complete color change? Are your painting skills and equipment good enough to use minimal product? Most people would say to get a gallon and call it good. I have seen this be more than enough with extra for touch ups. I have also seen people run out in the middle and scramble to get more. The problem with running out is now you have two separate mixes and the chance of slight color variation increases. It appears you are painting with the original color. A gallon of basecoat should be fine. You will also need to remember that you also need to purchase clearcoat as well as catalysts, hardeners, reducers, etc. Depending on the brand, you may also need to purchase sealer that would be sprayed before any color coat would be applied.
You get paint from a paint distributor, not the dealer. There are tons of variables in this. To be honest, if you don't know where to get paint codes or paint, will you be able to paint the car yourself? It is much harder to do a good job than most know. Practice makes perfect for this. I would know, I am ASE Master Tech certified.
To specifically answer your questions, look at the data sticker in the door jamb. It will have a line that says paint and a two letter code. For example black would be UA. Talk with a few different body shops about their paint distributor. They may use PPG, DuPont, Sherwin-Williams, R-M, Glasurit, etc. Professional paint is all very similar in my opinion. Most shops use one or the other based on their relationship with the distributor and not the paint. Now, there are tons of fanatics out there about their brands being best, and everyone has an opinion. Cost is not always an indicator of performance. Contact a few paint distributors in your area and ask questions. You cannot ask enough questions before purchasing the paint.
How much paint to buy is a loaded question. Are you painting the jambs and undersides of hood/trunk/etc? Are you doing a complete color change? Are your painting skills and equipment good enough to use minimal product? Most people would say to get a gallon and call it good. I have seen this be more than enough with extra for touch ups. I have also seen people run out in the middle and scramble to get more. The problem with running out is now you have two separate mixes and the chance of slight color variation increases. It appears you are painting with the original color. A gallon of basecoat should be fine. You will also need to remember that you also need to purchase clearcoat as well as catalysts, hardeners, reducers, etc. Depending on the brand, you may also need to purchase sealer that would be sprayed before any color coat would be applied.
Who said anything about me painting the car? I wouldnt try or even attempt to paint a car if my life depended on it. I'm getting someone to do it. I'm just doing the top of everything and the bottom of my hood (New hood). Jambs are not getting repainted. I'll ask all those questions when i go to the body shop in a few days.
So i would need to purchase the basecoat paint, clearcoat, .....what else?
Nightfire, thanks for the paint code.
Most paint places would rather then but the paint than you which is a good deal since they get distributor prices. Bad thing is what's left over they keep usually since you won't have a use for it. Price will be determined by how much prep work will need to be done before the hood can be painted. I know a lot of aftermarket parts say they are ready for paint but usually that isn't the case. Price will depend on if it's a 2 or 3 stage paint that's going on the car. The problem you might run into is that almost everyone good is gong to recommend blending at least the top of your fenders with it to match so that's more prep work and paint there. For the hood on both sides id say you are at 400 to 600 without blending and maybe close to a grand if it's blended together. I wouldn't cheap out on this however if you plan on keeping the car for a while and also ask to see some works in progress or just completed stuff to see how good they are.
talk directly with the paint distributor to determine everything you will need. There are also temperature/humidity related factors that would decide what would need to be purchased. Ask the person that will be spraying the car as well.
Bump the thread for a little insight. I have a body and paint man repainting my car on the side this summer/fall and am looking for suggestions in the brand name department. PPG looks like one of the top, he even suggested it and then unsuggested it with the price per gallon (said there is no reason to spend that, its all about prep, quality paint and excellent finish, not the PPG name). Anyone recommend a paint with a good reputation/personal results that isn't priced at almost $500 a gallon? Color is ep or bright/vermillion red.