Which head gaskets to get?

[1105]

Hopyfully I'll have enough money left over from my check to buy the stuff I need to put on my TW heads. I allready have the part # for the ARP head bolts, so now I need a part number for the head gaskets. If you know which ones to get just post it and I'll try to find out the part number if you dont know it. I want to get a nice set so everything seals nicely.

Heres a list of stuff I'm going to need, add to it if I'm missing anything.

ARP Bolts
Head Gaskets
Valve Cover Gaskets
Lower Intake Gaskets
Header Gaskets (maybe)
Timing Chain Cover Gasket
Timing Chain Set

My upper to lower intake gaskets are still fine, they are only about a month old so I dont need new ones of thoes. I think I might be missing a few things so please let me know if I am. Thanks and please dont tell me its going to be over $200 because then it'll have to wait until after christmas

 

[Rootus]

Here is what I got, and how much it cost:

FPP-1011-2, Fel-Pro Head Gaskets, $60
ARP-154-3701, 12pt Head Bolt Set, $40
FPP-1645, Fel-Pro 1645, 0.25" Valve Cover Gaskets, $30
FPP-1250, Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gasket, $20
ARP-154-2101, 12pt Intake Bolt Set, $20
FPP-1415, Fel-Pro Exhaust Gaskets, $17
FEL-TCS45449, Timing Cover Gasket Set, $16
ARP-100-9903, Moly Lube, $7
ARP-100-9904, Thread Sealer, $7

Obviously there are some differences, but you get the idea. You'll also need a bunch of oil, antifreeze, distilled water, etc.

Dave

 

[Green 94 5.0]

like hairycanary said, felpro 1011-2's.

 

[1105]

Whats the Moly Lube used for? Never heard of that stuff before.

Also Dave, wouldnt 6 point bolts be better or ARP doesnt make any 6 point head bolts? As for the intake bolts, I'm currently using the stock ones and they are working fine so should I just leave them for now, maybe change them out later, because I'm on a tight budget right now. Will I also need to pull the water pump? We're putting in a cam at the same time as all of this.

 

[Rootus]

Whats the Moly Lube used for?

Aka assembly lube, you use it when you torque down the head bolts to make sure you get accurate torque readings.

Also Dave, wouldnt 6 point bolts be better or ARP doesnt make any 6 point head bolts?

ARP makes both flavors. The 12-pt heads are stronger in theory. Just personal choice, really.

As for the intake bolts, I'm currently using the stock ones and they are working fine so should I just leave them for now, maybe change them out later, because I'm on a tight budget right now.

Yeah, as long as they're in okay condition. They don't get torqued down all that tight (15-25 ft-lbs). I just had one of mine break when I was taking the old intake off, which is how the ARP ones made my list.

Will I also need to pull the water pump? We're putting in a cam at the same time as all of this.

No, you don't necessarily need to pull the water pump. You just have to figure out which three bolts only hold the water pump to the timing cover, and then remove the rest (which go through the water pump, then through the timing cover and into the block). Pretty easy, actually, the three bolts are ones that couldn't possibly go into the block because they'd have to go through important things like timing chains & sprockets .

You will have to pull the A/C condenser out and rotate it up, you don't have to disconnect anything but you need as much clearance as possible -- as it is the cam will just touch the front of the chassis when you pull it out. We just tied it off to the hood support (pics on this page).

Dave

 

[1105]

thanks Dave