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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Which Subframe connector?????

  • Thread starter Thread starter 97GTSTANG
  • Start date Start date Apr 20, 2004
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mogs01gt

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Jul 22, 2002
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Apr 21, 2004
#21
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #21
Maximum Motorsports.
 

GT2000JAY

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Oct 22, 2002
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Northwest
Apr 21, 2004
#22
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #22
Barjam said:
Would it be worth upgrading the stock subframe connectors in my 2001 cobra vert?
Click to expand...

If the subframes in the Cobra verts are the same as those in a GT vert than the answer is definitely yes, it would be worth it! The stock sfc's just don't do a damn thing - they bolt in and really have no substance to them.

Just my opinion, but I noticed a huge improvement over the factory pieces.

Jay
 

GDawg

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2002
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Apr 21, 2004
#23
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #23
I paid $200.00 to have mine welded in but then I also have a matrix brace and jacking rails in addition to the super subs.

I don't feel that my welder did a very clean job so it all depends on who you hire for price and job quality.
 
R

Rocketman

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Apr 21, 2004
#24
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #24
I got Maximum Motorsport Full lengths welded in and IMO they are a great mod. Took the squeaks out of my uppper and lower control arms and eliminated a lot of rattles. Made a huge difference in corning and even pulling out of my drive way "steep angle". Paid $125 for the SFC and $155 for the labor and welding. I recommend having someone with experience do the welding. Had mine installed at XMP http://www.x-m-p.com in OC. They were very careful not ot overheat the frames, no carpet burns and made sure the doors closed properly after tack welding.
 

2013 Geee T

Founding Member
Sep 25, 2002
805
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Oak Park, CA
Apr 21, 2004
#25
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #25
I had the Kenny Brown Super Subs on my 01 and loved them. I could tell the difference when going around a corner. The car stayed more "flat". I paid $100 to have them welded in at the muffler shop.
 

DBMSTNG

I fantasize about it being BIG!
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Apr 23, 2002
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not quite here
Apr 21, 2004
#26
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #26
i bought the steeda kits since it comes with the torque box plates as well.
 

97GTSTANG

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Apr 21, 2004
#27
  • Apr 21, 2004
  • #27
Well so far i have heard that i should either get the MM Full length of the Kenny Brown supersubs. The KB supersubs are a little cheapter, does it matter what material they are made with. most are steel i think. what do they have to paint it with to prevent rust?

Thanks again guys
 

lgndracer

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Feb 21, 2004
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Apr 22, 2004
#28
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #28
GDawg said:
but then I also have a matrix brace and jacking rails in addition to the super subs.
Click to expand...

This is the same set up I am looking at for mine. Any one else have this? Opinions?


Mike
 

01GT eibach

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Nov 18, 2002
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Pittsburgh, PA
Apr 22, 2004
#29
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #29
97GTSTANG said:
Well so far i have heard that i should either get the MM Full length of the Kenny Brown supersubs.
Click to expand...
Both are good products. The MM are full length, while the KB's are regular length. With full length, it will cost more to get them welded in -- also, some people have had clearance issues with some types of full length SFC's when lowered (I don't know which types). The MM's will clearly offer more rigidity, but (IMO) the KB's are very good for the moderate street car.
 

GDawg

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Mar 22, 2002
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Apr 22, 2004
#30
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #30
lgndracer said:
This is the same set up I am looking at for mine. Any one else have this? Opinions?


Mike
Click to expand...

The Matrix brace may have been a little bit of overkill for my daily driver but the jacking rails are awesome! If only I could fit a jack under my car since I lowered it...
 

97GTSTANG

Founding Member
May 25, 2000
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Apr 22, 2004
#31
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #31
so the KB with supersubs with the jacking rails? I think i will order that. Its under $120
 

97GTSTANG

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May 25, 2000
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Apr 22, 2004
#32
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #32
what about these subframes for $35
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474881445&category=42609
 

pinski

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Mar 17, 2002
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Apr 22, 2004
#33
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #33
97GTSTANG said:
what about these subframes for $35
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474881445&category=42609
Click to expand...

Remember, 9 times out of 10 you get what you pay for. I've never heard of this "CGS" or whatever, and they might be okay, but I would go with a more trusted product, especially with the expense of getting them installed.
 

02 Sonic Blue

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Jul 22, 2002
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Overland Park, KS
Apr 22, 2004
#34
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #34
never heard of them, you get what you pay for though. what about just the FRPP subframes, i found them on ebay for like 45 + shipping. Blue oval performance has them...
 

97GTSTANG

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May 25, 2000
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Apr 22, 2004
#35
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #35
Will prob just get either one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474078801&category=42609


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2474621282&category=42609
 

02 Sonic Blue

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Jul 22, 2002
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Apr 22, 2004
#36
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #36
looks like good deals, ebay is definetely the way to go when buying parts...
 

97GTSTANG

Founding Member
May 25, 2000
852
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Virginia
Apr 22, 2004
#37
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #37
The KB looks like a better one wtih the supersubs. its under $100 shipped
 

97GTSTANG

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May 25, 2000
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Apr 22, 2004
#38
  • Apr 22, 2004
  • #38
http://www.steeda.com/
check out the new steeda Full length subfram connectors. They are only $119, i just ordered those.
Those are prob all i wil lneed. i am sure the car will drive better and take turns better.
 
D

Drew1287

New Member
Mar 13, 2003
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Louisiana
Apr 23, 2004
#39
  • Apr 23, 2004
  • #39
I got the FRPP from blue oval industries for 45$ and they are powdercoated black.
 

bird

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Dec 27, 2001
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Garden City, NY
Apr 23, 2004
#40
  • Apr 23, 2004
  • #40
Just my .02

1) You want a sub-frame connector to be as wide as the mounting point on the car. Because from what I have learned, welding the sub-frame connector to the uni-body at the corners is the strongest point. Welding any sub-frame connector to the under side of the uni-body (meaning the flat part) will be prone to more flexing. Example Kenney Brown mounts to the underside of the uni-body. It does not meet the full with of the uni-body. I'm not trying to flame you KB owners out there. This is just the truth. There still not a bad sub-frame connector. But for the price I think the money is better spent on the Griggs SF for $89 or the MM SF.

2) When you install or you bring the car to a shop to have the sub-frames welded in. Make sure that the weight of the car is supported by the wheels and not by the uni-body. The car is designed to supported it's own weight by the wheels. Jacking the car up at uni-body will cause the body to shift, which might cause the doors, and body panels to be miss-aligned.

Do it once, Do it right.

Rob
 
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