Which Subframes and Control Arms do you have?? ... Pros/Cons

89CopCoupe · Jun 24, 2005

My low mile notch is gonna get some rigidity within the next few weeks.
Im gonna put on some quality connectors as well as a set of UCA/LCA for now ...
The car is going to be a street car ... so I want the aftermarket chassis as quiet as possible and ride decent.

What pieces are you using (Full length/brand/series etc) or have used and what are your opinions of them ... I'll be taking your personal experience as the decision in which pieces I buy. I don't mind going cheap ... if the parts work great.
Thanks in advance for your input.

D347643 · Jun 24, 2005

my subframe connectors were made locally but they were based on max motorsports and they are sick. as for control arms you cant beat granitelli's prices. only 129 for double adjustable uppers and 199 for the adjustable lowers with the spring perches you can raise and lower. hell of a deal if you ask me

Drew

mpayne · Jun 24, 2005

i went with steedas full length rectangular w/ cross-braces. the differemce was night and day and also worth all the money. IMO id go with steeda... they have a variety to choose from also.

90mustangGT · Jun 24, 2005

MM full lengths: Run from firewall to torque boxes, have seat supports and blocks to secure the torque box assemblies as well.

HPM Megabite Double Adjustable Uppers and Megabite Jr. Lowers: Really beefy, improved every aspect of driving.

88_GT_5_oh · Jun 24, 2005

home made subframes here. took an afternoon to cut, bend, weld them up and paint them, but it made a big difference car feels sooooo much better and stiff and launchs like an arrow.

as for control arms i will be waiting till winter to get those as well as the rest of my stang parts, i got some other stuff i wanna buy first and the stang is taking a back seat for now

camarokiller5.0 · Jun 24, 2005

Ebay sub frames $39.99 , summit upper and lowers $245, they hook great, no noise, i dont feel all the bind people talk about like my old lift bars. Night and day from stock!!!

89CopCoupe · Jun 25, 2005

mpayne said:
i went with steedas full length rectangular w/ cross-braces. the differemce was night and day and also worth all the money. IMO id go with steeda... they have a variety to choose from also.

Steeda is the direction I'm leaning on a lot of chassis parts, but was looking for multiple responses ... Sometimes they are pricey, but I think the quality is always there

MahFiVeOh · Jun 25, 2005

camarokiller5.0 said:
Ebay sub frames $39.99 ..............

Thats what i went with....the ones from BlueOval Industries.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4550565021&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

stangbear427 · Jun 25, 2005

Another happy MM customer here... but not cheap. Full length, hug the floor real nice and have lots of contact, we were able to weld them on pretty much from end to end. Not bad price, espectially purchaced as a chassis brace package with the strut tower and K memeber braces. My MM control arms were up there though, $330 just for lowers. I didn't mind because I'm not running any uppers, so I could go higher end on the lowers. Teflon coated sperical metal bearings on each end, no poly and no bind, and virtually no NVH. Well worth the price.

darthcual · Jun 25, 2005

Basically i think everyone will tell you anything is better than stock. After my clutch job that im working on i will install rear uppers and lowers. I have fms subframes and they work great. Good Luck Dude. Oh and if it matters I'm going w/ the summit upper/lowers.

dstanggt50 · Jun 25, 2005

On my old 87gt, I had hpm lca's and subframes, felt a big difference, I swapped over the lca's onto my new car,but still need to get a set of subframes, I think you'll be pleased when you add the parts.

mricci · Jun 25, 2005

I have a set of custom through the floor subframes from tubechasis designs in Ma. And BBK UCA/LCA.

Prime Lord · Jun 25, 2005

I've got MM LCA's w/ their recomended Ford uppers and standard length Sub's. W/ the T-tops...the body flexed like CRAZY stock..but w/ just the standard Subs, it is so stiff, I'd swear it was a notch (w/ Subframes). I like their LCA's too..quality stuff. They hook great and really keep the rear end in check.

stangbear427 · Jun 25, 2005

mricci said:
I have a set of custom through the floor subframes from tubechasis designs in Ma.

Ahhh... the ultimate solution. Congrats dude, you are the man.

Calico Cobra · Jun 25, 2005

MahFiVeOh said:
Thats what i went with....the ones from BlueOval Industries.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4550565021&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

Do these have any type of rust protection? If so, seems like a really good price.

fiveo'cobra · Jun 25, 2005

Calico Cobra said:
Do these have any type of rust protection? If so, seems like a really good price.

Those are the ones i have too from blue oval industries. They are the 46 inch full length SFC's with crossbraces for $40. Mine came in flat black with no rust protection; they aren't zinc plated or anything like that. The fit wasn't great since they didn't sit flush with the chassis so i had to do some grinding and use a few tricks welding, but they went on fine and work great. car is MUCH MUCH stiffer around corners and it eliminated alot of squeeks and rattles through the car.

As far as control arms, i opted for just the Hotchkis lowers. Great piece that went on really clean. Tightened up the rear end drastically and i noticed a very nice improvment on launches.

Legendary · Jun 25, 2005

stangbear427 said:
Another happy MM customer here... but not cheap. Full length, hug the floor real nice and have lots of contact, we were able to weld them on pretty much from end to end. Not bad price, espectially purchaced as a chassis brace package with the strut tower and K memeber braces. My MM control arms were up there though, $330 just for lowers. I didn't mind because I'm not running any uppers, so I could go higher end on the lowers. Teflon coated sperical metal bearings on each end, no poly and no bind, and virtually no NVH. Well worth the price.

I pretty much have the same as bear here except my mm control arms on have the sperical bearing on one end.

89CopCoupe · Jun 26, 2005

MahFiVeOh said:
Thats what i went with....the ones from BlueOval Industries.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4550565021&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

My only concern with these is the lack of "chassis contoured bends" ... I think a pair with the contoured shape would be better overall for ground clearance and total weld surface area.

I want to do the minimal possible fit work as I can ... the car has 7K garage queen miles on it and the previous owner had the undercarriage spray coated.

harley02 · Jun 26, 2005

Night and day difference once you install these parts. Especially subfram connectors. I have Hotchkis upper/lower cntrl arms. Deleted quad shocks. MAC subfram connectors. Steeda springs. You will definitely notice a difference w/whatever manufacturer you use.

89CopCoupe · Jun 26, 2005

Has anyone used bolt-on connectors?
Or maybe the better question, has anyone used both bolt and weld and could give good comparison/contrast input.

Which Subframes and Control Arms do you have?? ... Pros/Cons

89CopCoupe

Banned

D347643

Banned

mpayne

New Member

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

88_GT_5_oh

Sportin' a turbo 5.0 in Canadistan

camarokiller5.0

New Member

89CopCoupe

Banned

MahFiVeOh

stangbear427

Active Member

darthcual

Member

dstanggt50

mricci

Member

Prime Lord

Crappy Default Title

stangbear427

Active Member

Calico Cobra

New Member

fiveo'cobra

New Member

Legendary

89CopCoupe

Banned

harley02

New Member

89CopCoupe

Banned

Similar threads

Which Subframes and Control Arms do you have?? ... Pros/Cons

Banned

Banned

New Member

I felt sorry for girls because

Sportin' a turbo 5.0 in Canadistan

New Member

Banned

Active Member

Member

Member

Crappy Default Title

Active Member

New Member

New Member

Banned

New Member

Banned

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency