Which Subframes and Control Arms do you have?? ... Pros/Cons

stangbear427 · Jun 26, 2005

It is widely accepted that bolt in connectors are vastly inferior. I have seen them actually damage the subframes, and any of the recognised professionals in the suspension industry will advise against their use. Example, this is from the Maximum Motorsports website:
"MM subframe connectors securely weld to the front and rear subframes of your Mustang. (Bolt-on connectors do not work because the bolts cannot be properly tightened due to the lack of structure in the car’s subframes.)"

89CopCoupe · Jun 26, 2005

stangbear427 said:
.... (Bolt-on connectors do not work because the bolts cannot be properly tightened due to the lack of structure in the car’s subframes.)"

Thanks .. that was the thought that I had on them with the subframe wall thickness being so thin ... I guess with the aftermarket still pushing them I thought maybe this wasn't the case ... but I suppose companies will do anything to make a buck

glenn95gt · Jun 26, 2005

I am using ground pounder sub frames, and so far so good, for my u/l I am using granatelli's, with ET drags I cut a 1.67 60', I know there is a 1.5 in there somewhere. One thing to really look at is when doing u/l control arms is getting your torque boxes welded. with the added strength, the torque boxes are more succeptable to tearing. if you look at them, there are only three spot welds holding them in place. anything will be better than stock, how much you are willing to spend?

88_GT_5_oh · Jun 26, 2005

glenn95gt said:
anything will be better than stock, how much you are willing to spend?

that line rings true for every part you buy for a mustang or any car for that matter.

89CopCoupe · Jun 26, 2005

As the rule of thumb, "Ya get what you pay for" ... agreed ... but I have picked up some good working pieces for cheap too Some things are just a great value

ExplodingGopher · Jun 27, 2005

Im using the competition engineering subframes for the big block fox, they sure do look frikin beefy and fit perfectly, summit PN is CEE-3048

Ranchero5.0 · Jun 27, 2005

For subframes my own from www.geocities.com/ranchero50
The BBK connectors are like the MGW's from Blue Oval (basicly cheap junk) and I would not put them on your car. I was given a set yesterday when I installed a set of mine on a customers car.

For control arms, upper and lowers are Steeda aluminums and are pretty amazing. Done the MAC's and BBK junk. Southsides are horrible. The Steeda's ride quiet and are very light. Install was easy.

Jamie

2002BLGT · Jun 27, 2005

I have edelbrocks on my 2002GT and going with something cheaper on my fox body but I will say that the edelbrocks are nicer and stronger than any set I have ever seen before other than the full under car systems from like Kenny Brown .....

bullitstang1313 · Jun 27, 2005

Anyone using Kenny Brown extreme matrix kit or any of his suspension components? My cousin has a friend that works at Kenny Brown so I'm gonna try and get a deal on some parts.

89CopCoupe · Jun 27, 2005

Ranchero5.0 said:
....... control arms, upper and lowers are Steeda aluminums and are pretty amazing. Done the MAC's and BBK junk. Southsides are horrible. The Steeda's ride quiet and are very light. Install was easy.

Jamie

Are you referring to their aluminum arms in general or certain adjustable or non-adj pieces are better than others?

I know all aftermarket arms will tighten up the chassis ... but quiet, satisfied use is the key factor to which I purchase.

Paully's5.0 · Jun 27, 2005

bullitstang1313 said:
Anyone using Kenny Brown extreme matrix kit or any of his suspension components? My cousin has a friend that works at Kenny Brown so I'm gonna try and get a deal on some parts.

I have the standard subframe connectors. They did stiffen up the car, but they are definately not a quality piece like the full length MMs or similar full length subs. If I were to do it over (which I probably will sometime down the raod) I will be going with full lengh MMs or something of similar design.

aaros · Jun 27, 2005

ebay subs and steeda alum.lca's mine are quiet (everyonece and a while ill hear a creak but ive got a vert) and light. got them on ebay also.

Ranchero5.0 · Jun 27, 2005

Personnally I consider the adjustables for ride height or length somewhat of an over kill for a street or mild race car. For an all out racer they would be nice if you were smart enough to know what you were doing at each track (NASCAR mentality). I like the Steeda's alot because as advertised they are softer on the outside of the bushings and have a much better range of motion side to side but still have very little give fore and aft vs the MAC's. The MAC set I installed were miserable. Took us four hours to get them in, the rear just would not deflect enough to get the last bolt in and I'm very experienced with these cars.

In fact on the Steeda uppers I left the car supported by the axle LCA mounts and just unbolted one arm at a time and they went right in, less than one hour of in the air time. Even quicker in fact vs a set of stockers.

For ride height I use some 1/8" and 1/4" shims as the springs settle to keep it sitting nicely. Found out that a 1/4" shim in the front raised my car 1". Mine sits at 25" in the front and 26" at the rear. Actually looks unlowered, but handles well.

FYI on the front I just put a set of bushings in the A arms and offset bushings on the rack and it's working well.

Jamie

89CopCoupe · Jun 27, 2005

Ranchero5.0 said:
...... For ride height I use some 1/8" and 1/4" shims as the springs settle to keep it sitting nicely. Found out that a 1/4" shim in the front raised my car 1". ......

Spring shims, never heard of them, do you have a link? I'm planning on putting the Steeda Lite Sport Springs on all four until I pick out a good Tube K down the road

Thanks for your awesome input Jamie

Ranchero5.0 · Jun 28, 2005

Actually it's in Steeda's 2005 catalog. 1/4" shim in the front is supposed to raise the car 1/2". My FMS 'B' springs sagged in the front so I fabbed a set at work one night out of 1/4" aluminum plate and they reaised it 1".

Jamie

mrswivlepants · Jul 31, 2005

Bringing this one back to life....I'm assuming the full length will add extra rigidity over the standard length subframes right? Is it worth spending the extra cash on the full lengths for a daily driver? Are the benefits of the full length that much greater than those realized by the standards?

runningmole · Jul 31, 2005

I have custom exterior and custom interior subframes. The interior sub are based off of the Griggs in-floors. Stock LCAs for now. Maximum Motorsports to come soon

mondos90lx · Jul 31, 2005

i got 50resto subframes, 50$, waitin for them to be installed while car is getting painted, for control arms i got adjustable granatelli upperse off a friend for 50$ brand new and i have the granatelli weight jacker lower control arms for 200$ off this website, waiting to put the lowers on once i get the car back

mrswivlepants · Jul 31, 2005

mrswivlepants said:
Bringing this one back to life....I'm assuming the full length will add extra rigidity over the standard length subframes right? Is it worth spending the extra cash on the full lengths for a daily driver? Are the benefits of the full length that much greater than those realized by the standards?

Anyone???

runningmole · Jul 31, 2005

mrswivlepants said:
Anyone???

You're correct. I say get the full length subs. As I posted about, I have external AND internal (in-floor) subframes. And this IS my daily driver. I've put 20,000 miles on it in the last year. But in the end, it's your car and your money. But I say get the full lengths

Which Subframes and Control Arms do you have?? ... Pros/Cons

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