Which would be a better avenue of aproach?

94blackGTvert · Dec 7, 2004

what would be considered a good price on a 69-74 351w for just the block out of a junkyard??

Joes95GT · Dec 7, 2004

If you can find a good W-block in a junkyard, chances are the owners/operators don't know what they have. Pay whatever they ask. If someone knew what they had, they could probably ask 400-500 bucks for it. Even then, I probably wouldn't flinch if I knew my goals were going to be met and that the block would hold it.

Joe

DallasJ_TSi · Dec 7, 2004

If I were to get a 351w, how would I know its a 69-74 for sure?

Also Ill look, but do you happen to have a link for a description of what is involved with swapping a 351w?

-Dallas J

DallasJ_TSi · Dec 7, 2004

One Wicked SVT said:
with swap parts, machining it to have hydra system and 1 piece RMS, it adds up... TO A LOT!

Whats this Hydra system youre talking about? Ive done a search and cant find anything, and Ive never heard of it.

What type a machine work is involved with a 1 piece RMS (rear main?). Why isnt the stock one fine if Im probably staying with the stock stroke or 393?

Ive found a bunch of info on what is all needed for the swap, and the only thing thats disconcerning right now is the hood clearence. Im gonna try and search for some engine mounts that lower the engine.

-Dallas J

Joes95GT · Dec 7, 2004

DallasJ_TSi said:
If I were to get a 351w, how would I know its a 69-74 for sure?

Also Ill look, but do you happen to have a link for a description of what is involved with swapping a 351w?

-Dallas J

Swapping a 351 requires that all the intake manifold and headers be changed due to the taller deck height and greater width of the motor. The distributor has to be changed because of the taller deck, and the motor mounts obviously have to be changed. I don't know anymore than that, but I'm pretty sure I've got the basics.

I don't know too much about ID'ing blocks other than the '69 blocks (the most desirable year) is a C8 and the '70 blocks are C9. When you do find a 351, check the number of bolt holes in the valve covers - Windsors have 6, Cleve's have 8. The T-stat location on a Cleveland motor is also different from the 302/351W location.

Joe

Joes95GT · Dec 7, 2004

DallasJ_TSi said:
Whats this Hydra system youre talking about? Ive done a search and cant find anything, and Ive never heard of it.

What type a machine work is involved with a 1 piece RMS (rear main?). Why isnt the stock one fine if Im probably staying with the stock stroke or 393?

Ive found a bunch of info on what is all needed for the swap, and the only thing thats disconcerning right now is the hood clearence. Im gonna try and search for some engine mounts that lower the engine.

-Dallas J

Hydra system = Hydraulic roller. Wicked can't spell it.

Roller cams were not used back in the day - they used flat tappets. The lifter bores needed to be enlarged to accept a roller camshaft. You WILL want to do this if it's a race motor.

I have no clue what type of machine work is involved in turning a 2-piece rear main seal into a 1-piece, but I do know that it is cheap. With a 1-piece RMS, you have more support. Think about it this way - you have two semi-circles that make up the RMS. You stack them to that they form a circle in the back of the motor. When pressure builds up inside the crankcase, which do you think is going to give first, the 1 piece or 2 piece? The two piece will. There is seal is already "broken" (for lack of a better term) and the pressure required to blow one out is much less than a 1-piece.

A local guy runs a 408 in a Fox-coupe under a 2" cowl hood, and I'm not sure how big of a "drop" his motor mounts are. You will probably have to get some type of cowl hood to clear the motor; it shouldn't be anything humongously ridiculous though.

Joe

DallasJ_TSi · Dec 7, 2004

Ive found a bunch of info now on the swap. Alot of little parts are needed, but having 150k on the clock most of the parts are in need of changing anyways.

The 351 looks like it will hold the power I want, be cheaper than a dart 302, and probably not take any more work. I just have to have a few different parts.

Thanks for the help.

The search for knowlege continues.

-Dallas J

One Wicked SVT · Dec 8, 2004

The main point is...

New distributor = $300 or so for a 94-95 specific dizzy.

New 351w swap headers = $350

New 351w "swap" oil pan = $200

351w intake specific= $120 added over 302.

These are ADDED cost, from when you add it up you can just simply purchase a R302/ new editions DART SPORTSMAN BLOCK for a couple bucks more. Which has lots of potential to grow to 1200-1400horsepower easily.

ProKiller · Dec 8, 2004

the way i see, he's not really concerned a whole lot about the prices. its going to over time anyway.

go with the 351, and yes you will need to get a taller hood.

if its only a track car, i would call up keith craft and order a new turnkey engine. a n/a 351 stroked carb setup will get you into the 9s.

BlueOvalStangGT · Dec 8, 2004

I always thoguth the Clevelands were better then the Windsors, no?

Joes95GT · Dec 8, 2004

BlueOvalStangGT said:
I always thoguth the Clevelands were better then the Windsors, no?

Yes and no. Cleve's are very expensive motors and often make too much power for the blocks to handle. I've seen a Cleveland with serious cylinder heads make 1100 horsepower on 15# of boost from a turbo. Crankshafts for Cleveland motors are a bit more expensive because they have odd journal sizes.

Nowadays, you can make a Cleveland out of a Windsor. The only thing special about the Cleveland motor was the canted valve heads. Blue Thunder makes canted valve heads for Windsor race motors. They make TONS of power. If you use them with on a Windsor, they bolt right up, but you'd need custom pistons.

Joe

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