White Smoke out the Tailpipe!!! Frustration Level High!

Piston · Oct 20, 2006

Little background... So I just got done fixin smoke out one drivers side tail pipe. Had to retorqe my intake and the problem went away. Per my engine builder I torqued the intake to 14lbs. Now things were fine and smoke was gone. However, I had some vaccum brake assist problems. My gauge was reading 9inches at idle of 1100RPM's. Yah I have a rowdy Hi-Rev cam and that seems about right for that cam. It's an AFM N-91. Before I had the gauge I know that the brakes did work with this cam. So it was deemed that my brake booster was shot. So I went out bought a new one installed it. Voila, brakes seem to be working. Well while driving around to test if the brakes are working at all times, I had an incident. While rolling at 35mph I slammed on the brakes as if in an emergeny. Initailly it seemed that brake assist wasn't working but that quickly changed and the car hit the brakes hard. Then the engine started to run like **** and I dropped a spy hunter style smoke screen. Well the engine is running like **** do to MAF reasons. Just know this from experience and I believe that code 8000 on the AFM PMS means just that. Now I have smoke out both tail pipes and it smokes hard. I have no freaking idea wtf is wrong. Oh yah check engine light is on which is prolly the 8000 code that I see on the PMS.

I'm really frustrated with this bitch...

Anyhow anyone know what I should do? What the hell does slamming the brakes and spyhunter smoke screen have to do with each other?!?

Anyhel will be appreciated...

jtfairlane · Oct 20, 2006

Well, I'm sure you've already thought of this, but it sounds like you're burning coolant. One of the times a set of intake gaskets tore at the water port by the intake port for Cylinder #1, that was just enough to allow coolant to get into that intake port and voila! lots of billowing white smoke out of the tailpipes. Whether that is because of bad intake gaskets, or something worse...is something you're going to have to dig into the motor to find out.

8950HO · Oct 20, 2006

Sounds like your burning coolant.

That 14 lb-ft torque spec your engine builder told you to torque it down is too low for a lower intake.

Stock final spec is 23-25 lb-ft with stock heads.

Guys with aluminum heads are around 20 lb-ft for the lower final torque spec,or whatever the head mfg recommends.

r.barn5.0 · Oct 20, 2006

8950HO said:
Sounds like your burning coolant.

That 14 lb-ft torque spec your engine builder told you to torque it down is too low for a lower intake.

Stock final spec is 23-25 lb-ft with stock heads.

Guys with aluminum heads are around 20 lb-ft for the lower final torque spec,or whatever the head mfg recommends.

+1

Sicarius428 · Oct 20, 2006

Be sure to retorque the final spec at least 3 times. Intake gaskets give a lot and when you tighten down one, typically the one next to it really isn't at the correct torque setting anymore.
Kevin

Piston · Oct 20, 2006

ok Guys thanks for the input...

Well I will try that this saturday... I will see if any of them are loose. Fawk, I tightened them down not long ago. Well I got 90% water in my car for coolant at the moment. Would that still give off a smoke like that?

So you guys thing it's just coinicdence that I slammed on the brakes and that happened?

Sicarius428 · Oct 20, 2006

90 percent coolant isn't bad. Water cools better than antifreeze anyways. You only need the antifreeze for its anti-corrosion properties and to prevent freezing. Not sure how it relates to slamming on the breaks though. I can't think of anything that can be related between the two.
Kevin

bullitstang1313 · Oct 20, 2006

The only corrolation that I can put together is:

While driving around town, the engine got warm enough and the intake expanded at a different rate as the heads, coolant leaked past the gaskets into the cylinders. Smoke wasn't seen while driving because you were driving and paying attention to the brakes, slammed on the brakes and then noticed smoke because you weren't moving anymore.

Piston · Oct 20, 2006

bullitstang1313 said:
The only corrolation that I can put together is:

While driving around town, the engine got warm enough and the intake expanded at a different rate as the heads, coolant leaked past the gaskets into the cylinders. Smoke wasn't seen while driving because you were driving and paying attention to the brakes, slammed on the brakes and then noticed smoke because you weren't moving anymore.

Well thats a good theory but believe me that's not how it went down. It happened within seconds of hitting the brake and not before. I also had a friend in the car who was with me and can attest to that. Not to mention I made sure there were no cars behind me. So I checked my rear view before deciding to slam on the brakes. I'm a mirror whore I look at them all the time. One other thing to add I don't drive the car until it hits operating temp as well. It was idling along in the driveway until right temp.

stang8urimport · Oct 20, 2006

The braking problem sounds as if coolant is being sucked into the brake booster... Water doesn't compress, so this could be your cause of no assist. Did you use RTV around all the coolant passages on both sides (head and intake) I don't care if the gasket has the silcone built in, I always rtv around all water jackets, and I've yet to have a problem. You should retorque the intake in a criss cross pattern AS MANY TIMES as it takes to torque the bolts to the specific amount. It could take 6-7 times before you reach the final torque due to gasket compression. Also, the intake moves around a little when you torque the bolts. This is another reason why you torque to 20 lbs/ft on the first bolt, and by the time you get to the last bolt... your first one is loose. Good luck

Piston · Nov 1, 2006

PoopDawg said:
The braking problem sounds as if coolant is being sucked into the brake booster... Water doesn't compress, so this could be your cause of no assist. Did you use RTV around all the coolant passages on both sides (head and intake) I don't care if the gasket has the silcone built in, I always rtv around all water jackets, and I've yet to have a problem. You should retorque the intake in a criss cross pattern AS MANY TIMES as it takes to torque the bolts to the specific amount. It could take 6-7 times before you reach the final torque due to gasket compression. Also, the intake moves around a little when you torque the bolts. This is another reason why you torque to 20 lbs/ft on the first bolt, and by the time you get to the last bolt... your first one is loose. Good luck

Thanks PoopDawg,

I will try again. I'm told again by my engine builder to do 14lbs. Hell, I don't know what to do as this is like the 3rd time I'm retorqing this stupid intake.

The water in the booster is that even possible?

8950HO · Nov 1, 2006

Look for another engine builder.The guy`s nut`s if he expects a lower intake to seal at 14lb-ft.

14lb-ft is fine for the upper,not the lower.

Piston · Nov 1, 2006

8950HO said:
Look for another engine builder.The guy`s nut`s if he expects a lower intake to seal at 14lb-ft.

14lb-ft is fine for the upper,not the lower.

Yah I'm thinking this 3rd time of retorqing I will go higher then 14lbs and risk blowing a head gasket as the engine builder tells me.

TomCat · Nov 1, 2006

Piston said:
Yah I'm thinking this 3rd time of retorqing I will go higher then 14lbs and risk blowing a head gasket as the engine builder tells me.

What's his logic?

Piston · Nov 6, 2006

TomCat said:
What's his logic?

If you are referring to the engine builder let me try to explain what I was told. The idea is that if the intake is at 14lbs it will not exert too much outward pressure on the heads. Too much pressure on the heads yields to more blown head gaskets. This is something that I was told like 2 years ago. I don't know that there were any other reasons. This is what I remember as the reason to do that. Come to think of it, my first motor died due to a sucked in intake gasket....

Piston · Nov 6, 2006

Fuel It's Fuel

Ok this white smoke is an extremely rich car. I should have known this before I parked it but I hate to run the car in a status like that. So I retorqed it all to spec. Ran the car again and here is the smoke again. At idle of 1100RPM's there isn't much to see as soon as i tap the gas out it poors. Sitting there in the smoke i smelled fuel and a buddy of mine who was there with me put his hand on the carpet (yes I have some old ass carpet on the garage floor) and it was soaked with fuel. So that's what my problem is fuel. Why, is my next question.

So what causes a car under braking to start burning rich as fawk. Bad O2's? Bad what?

$uperstang · Nov 7, 2006

black smoke= fuel
White smoke=oil

White Smoke out the Tailpipe!!! Frustration Level High!

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