Who knows about rod/piston/crank specs?

I would go with option #2 if your block doesn't need to be decked. You can definitely run .005 out of the hole. As you learned, you're headgasket thickness can be used to get you in that sweet quench spot.

I like this better, because if heaven forbid something doesn't work out, you havn't chopped down your block so you have more block to work with.
Once you go milling that much off your block, you're really limiting what you can do with that block. Keep in mind you still need to get your lower intake on. You may affect the way your intake lines up with your head if you bring down the deck height too much.
 
yeah, I was thinking 2 as well. Simply because it would be more cubes (:nice:)

I bid on a cast crank today, but didn't get it. I'm trying to buy this forged internally balanced eagle 4" from a guy, but he hasn't gotten back to me. In any case, I think I've got this figured out.

My engine shop guy said that worst case, they can take .020 off the top of the piston if they have to deck the block (which he recommended doing) and he said that'd be no more than $80 for the set.

Now, to save for those APR 205s and custom cam...

thanks again man! And don't sweat that mistake, seriously. Although I was looking for that CH piston, I'm not so in a hurry that I wouldn't double check the numbers before I bought stuff! (although I'm sure many have mixed parts that don't match... :nonono:)

Pics with progress will follow, of course.