Why should I get an Optima battery?

[propellerhead]

So Optimas are good if...

You often run lots of electronic accessories in your car.
You plan to mount your battery upside down or in the trunk.
You only start your car once a month.
You go off-roading to shake up a bottle of chocolate milk.
You just like the looks of a red or yellow battery.
You like stuff that "ownz".
You like spiral cells.

None of these apply to me.

 

[Orange...]

I only have one thing to say:
Mine is rated at 650 ca and 540 cca. When I bought it (3 years ago), it tested at 1400 cca @ 12.85 volts... I just tested it last week and it's still doing 1100 cca at 12.8something volts.
Thats more then doubled the power that is advertised...

I will never buy another battery.

 

[007]

if you roll your car, the battery can be taken out and put in your next car.

<Rushes to the store to get one ASAP. />

 

[007]

So what is a good LIGHTWEIGHT battery anyway?

 

[Stang|ess]

If you do get an Optima, be warned: you have to modify the stock battery tray to make it fit.

I run the yellow top, but I have a lot more voltage draining accessories than most people do.

slightly more .

the main question; can it power up the flux capacitor in my car?

 

[04GT]

I had one but it exploded...not good.

 

[turbogt]

you shouldn't.... There are better batteries..

 

[myponyrocks]

Wow, there's some bad info floating around randomly in here. The Optimas are so special, because they are spiral cell. That's why they have the round bulges. They are coils of plating one inside of the other, rather than standard rectangular plates like a standard battery. This gives them more surface area inside. They are gel-filled, so you could mount one completely upside down, if you so desired. Vibration does not hurt these batteries. They are also preferred because of their massive reserve capacity typically. I run these batteries in alot of industrial equipment at work. The only downside, is you can't test the cells individually in the same way you could test a standard battery, but who does that anymore these days. You can still load test the cells the old way. Autozone does this for free. If you have an old 65 series battery, an Optima produces twice the cranking amps and reserve capacity, for damn near half the weight. The 58 series batteries are pretty close to the same weight.

As for some randomly dying; they did have a large batch that came out bad. Of course, that's why they have such a huge warranty. My last one I bought about 6 months ago is still going strong, in a car that's only started once a month or so.

Since they are so great explain to me why my work MAKES SURE we don't have them, we run your stadard auto zone battery. I have yet to see a GSA vehicle with an Optima. It either doesn't make sense in a medium term enviroment (IE we switch out vehicles every 5-10 years) financially or something.

Now our rigs see random cycles, some of the equipment runs 8 hours a day 5 days a week, some sees only a few hours a month, and others see 24/7 operation.

Maybe as said before its an enthusiats battery.

 

[Shiroelex]

Hey, I only have an Optima in my Ranger. The 'Stang gets good ol' Motorcraft, until I hit the strip. I put in a motorcycle battery then. You're right, it really is an enthusiast's battery. They are good batteries for the right purpose.

 

[Seraphitia102]

I had my Optima for about a year so far. Combined with my alternator and capacitor, it can handle my 2 amplifers + subwoofer.

My capacitor has an LED display showing the voltage. The Mustang electrical system is a 12V system. My capicitor reads about 14.8V when the engine is on and about 13.5-14.3V when the subwoofer is hitting heavy notes which is still much more than the standard "12V." My stereo installer tells me that my electrical system is great if it manages to stay over "12V" on the LED display. I'm sure the battery isn't involved in the whole cycle, but compliments it. Kudos to Optima for my personal purposes.

But yes, I agree that if there is no heavy power-draining electronics in the car, Optima probably isn't necessary over Motorcraft.

 

[Team Ford]

My stock battery has lasted 7.5 years, I'm getting another one just like it. $65.89 from the dealership.

Good to hear. Im on year 4 with 59k, it still has a bright green light. When it's time to buy another I'll go with factory, because the cables are bent a certain way and as mentioned above fitment issues.

 

[larrendeuce]

The Ford GT uses an Optima, can be ordered from the Dealer parts counter.
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=56657

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I have to admit, it’s a good looking battery and performs great under duress, but I’m personally going with an Optima mainly for the fact that it promotes fumeless operation. Kind of a must for us guys with the trunk mount battery conversion.

Anyone have a picture of the "unique" battery hold down required when mounting it?

 

[Seraphitia102]

I have to admit, it’s a good looking battery and performs great under duress, but I’m personally going with an Optima mainly for the fact that it promotes fumeless operation. Kind of a must for us guys with the trunk mount battery conversion.

Anyone have a picture of the "unique" battery hold down required when mounting it?

When I am at home, I'll go ahead and take a picture of the custom part that holds down my battery tight.

 

[Give Me TP]

The Ford GT uses an Optima, can be ordered from the Dealer parts counter.
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=56657

I have one of those. My OEM battery was about three and a half years old, so the timing on this was good for me.

 

[turbogt]

I had my Optima for about a year so far. Combined with my alternator and capacitor, it can handle my 2 amplifers + subwoofer.

My capacitor has an LED display showing the voltage. The Mustang electrical system is a 12V system. My capicitor reads about 14.8V when the engine is on and about 13.5-14.3V when the subwoofer is hitting heavy notes which is still much more than the standard "12V." My stereo installer tells me that my electrical system is great if it manages to stay over "12V" on the LED display. I'm sure the battery isn't involved in the whole cycle, but compliments it. Kudos to Optima for my personal purposes.

But yes, I agree that if there is no heavy power-draining electronics in the car, Optima probably isn't necessary over Motorcraft.

Your battery has nothing to do with that.. Only when your CAP hits about 12.7 are you drawing all of the power from the alternator and are beginning to draw off of the battery..

 

[turbogt]